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Discussion Starter #21
Alright, DBohrer, break this procedure down Barney style for me. What rpms? Choke on or off? Engine warm? Gimme the play by play of the slam dunk.
 

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Engine warm......choke off....rpm's 4,000 - 4,300.....hands cover both carb air intakes....when it almost stalls out.....remove hands.....then repeat.

Might take 4 - 5 times to succeed......!!
 

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You can do it one carb at a time. Take it to high revs, cover the carb with your hand or a ball, open and close the throttle while its slowing down. Do this a couple times for each carb. Its important the throttle be fully closed at least some of the time the engine is slowing down. Once you are done with one, it will be loaded up with gas. Run the bike until its cleared out and repeat.
It can work some times. Some times it does not depending on how bad the jets are plugged.
David
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Discretion being what it is in relation to valor, I've broken down and purchased the Randakks set.

It started to show promising signs of working but then it regressed and now runs worse than before. Due in no small part, I assume, to my screwing with the idle knob. Anybody know what the opposite of a "moment of clarity" would be called?

Now it's time to bite down hard and learn what I've managed to avoid as long as I could. Unless, of course, there's anyone near east Iowa who doesn't mind getting paid in beer to come coach me through it.
 

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The opposite of a "moment of clarity" is an "eternity of obscurity".
 

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Discretion being what it is in relation to valor, I've broken down and purchased the Randakks set.

It started to show promising signs of working but then it regressed and now runs worse than before. Due in no small part, I assume, to my screwing with the idle knob. Anybody know what the opposite of a "moment of clarity" would be called?

Now it's time to bite down hard and learn what I've managed to avoid as long as I could. Unless, of course, there's anyone near east Iowa who doesn't mind getting paid in beer to come coach me through it.
Not sure that this will help but many who have this issue end up failing the first "go round." If you do not go in there with a particular plan it is easy to fail.

If you look at the floor of the throttle bore right at the throttle plate you should see a series of tiny, tiny "holes."
Those tiny holes go through some tiny passages to the slow jet.

These ports are where the fuel mixture exits the carb to make it idle. You have to get the opening clear of varnish from the jet to those ports. All of them.

To test the carbs ability to idle, take the fuel mixture screws out.
Now when you blow aerosol carb cleaner in the slow jet it must come out the port where the mixture screw was removed.

If it does , ( and usually it will, as that port is fairly large) screw the mixture adjusting screw in a few turns. Now spray the cleaner in the slow jet again. It should come out the ports by the throttle plate on the floor of the throttle bore.

Betcha it won't...
If it sprays out the top air bleed instead, put your finger over the air bleed and try again.


You have to get those varnished up ports open. Some have used a single wire from a wire brush to push and probe in each port.

Your mission is when you get done you should be able to spray carb cleaner in the slow jet and it has to come out those tiny little holes. Then you will know the slow/idle circuit is good to go.

All this is based on hopes that all else is good in the rest of the engine. 😎 .
 

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A great write up Mike, almost sounded like you wrote the TV Series 'Mission Impossible' and just as clear too.
 

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Used to use brushes on my SkiDoo's, maybe these would help?

 

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A great write up Mike, almost sounded like you wrote the TV Series 'Mission Impossible' and just as clear too.
Too funny. I thought about "your mission, should you decide to accept it is to make sure carb spray will travel from the slow jet to the ports at the bottom of the throttle plate. This recording will self destruct in.....:oops:
 

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Run some Berryman B-12 through it full strength, more than once if needed, as stated....easy stuff first. Friend of mine used some he had left over to clean dried paint brushes, worked like a charm so you know it will clean varnish. Your description is typical of plugged low speed jets, I suggest if you pull the carbs don't try cleaning them....just replace along with the rest of the guts.
 

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Run some Berryman B-12 through it full strength, more than once if needed, as stated....easy stuff first. Friend of mine used some he had left over to clean dried paint brushes, worked like a charm so you know it will clean varnish. Your description is typical of plugged low speed jets, I suggest if you pull the carbs don't try cleaning them....just replace along with the rest of the guts.
this post brought back to mind what I did when I bought my '94SE which had sat up in Glendale, AZ for several years. The fuel tank stunk, it just barely ran when we got it started at the owner's home.
the deal was a trade for my '84 carb model and small amount of cash to get the '94Se.

rode it home bucking like a rodeo horse.... tests proved that only one carb was doing a decent job ( IR temp gun on the Exhausts )

I sprayed B-12 in the carbs from the top, then I used probably half a can in the fuel tank with what remaining fuel was in the tank... After that, I ran Sea Foam for months, a full can for the first few tanks of fuel. Somewhere along the line, 4 months or more, it smoothed out and would idle like it should.

I used it for daily transportation to work/back ~20 miles each way..... drove it like it was stolen, as the traffic in Phoenix, AZ is brutal on the loops around town....

In my particular case, I never did have to overhaul the carbs, they eventually dissolved all the crud and it smoothed out.

Never did get to enjoy that bike like I should, rode it to California and back once, then this happened and Penske bought it.


323833
 

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Yeah, she sat for two years before I got her, that's kinda what I figured.

"Light"is just the first word that came to mind. It seems like it's wandering a little. And I mean it's super subtle, but it's there.
Do the routine service work for tightening the steering stem. The shop Manual has a good procedure when followed precisely. See section 12, begins on page 12-40
323842


Google this; Goldwing/Honda%20Goldwing%20GL1500%201994%20Service%20Manual-6051B.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Mission Impossible was a tv show?
 
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