Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 97 Aspencade with very low miles, runs great and I have not problems with it until it starts getting cold outside then I can't get it started to save my life. Does anyone have any ideas why this happens? Thanks Dave
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
711 Posts
Is the choke working properly? Take the air filter out to see the top of the carbs and try to start it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
59 Posts
Hi,

Put it on full choke, hit the starter BRIEFLY and let go. If you keep the starter button pressed in there is not enough juice to also get sparks.
I have 2 1500's and both require this technique. All 1500's I know of have this trait,

regards from Holland
 

·
Still Learning
Joined
·
13,274 Posts
Welcome to the forum Firemandave
How long have you had the bike?
Have you changed the gas filter this year? Napa #3003 @$5 is a great filter, fits snug without the rubber holder as the body is a little bigger the stock filter and it's clear so you can see the filter.
How old is the battery? A weak battery will show it self in cooler/cold weather as these systems need a full charged battery. Are you keeping it on a battery tender while not being used?
How often/long a period does it set without being riden?
 

·
Still Learning
Joined
·
13,274 Posts
Please put in your location as there might be someone local willing to lend a hand.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,868 Posts
The 1500 does not have a choke . It uses an enricher circuit (starter valve in the service manual). By opening this valve it allows extra fuel flow to ease cranking .IT is possible that the needle valve used in this circuit is gummed up .
 

·
Administrator
Piaggio MP3, was 02 GL1800
Joined
·
61,669 Posts
The 1500 bikes need full battery voltage when cold. IF battery voltage drops off a bit, they don't like to start up cold. As already said, use the brief starter turn over and release method to get it going. It is rare that my bike ever starts WHILE the start button is depressed.

A good strong battery, and one that is kept on a Battery Tender so the battery condition is always topped off helps a lot.

My '98 1500 acts the same as yours. I keep it on a battery tender all the time. Makes a world of difference.

And I always use the full 'choke' enrichment position to start it. Once running then I back off on the 'choke' a small amount at a time keeping the RPMs steady at about 2,000 where it is not faltering.

Takes a few minutes before they warm up enough to back off on the enrichment very much. I leave the enrichment control on and drive away. After a mile of riding I back it off.
 

·
Premium Member
2000 GL1500SE
Joined
·
3,349 Posts
When starting a cold engine you do not give it any throttle. Just leave the throttle alone and, with full choke, hit the start button. As already mentioned, do not hold the start button in but a second or two then let go. Sometimes a couple of twists of the throttle to squirt some fuel down the carbs will help with a cold start.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,851 Posts
New spark plugs gapped at .032 do wonders for starting my bike when it gets cooler if they havent been changed in awhile. New fuel and air filter help also.

gumbyred
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
456 Posts
All good points. I'll add that a 97 with very low miles indicates infrequent use. Fuel left in carbs from your previous ride is what's available for starting. And it gets old much quicker in the carb bowls than in the tank. Starting in cold temps (you didn't say how cold) only complicates the problem. It can also foul spark plugs. In addition to the other good suggestions posted, you could try draining your carbs to see if it starts any better.
 

·
Administrator
Piaggio MP3, was 02 GL1800
Joined
·
61,669 Posts
A short thought.

IF the carb bowls are dry, it will take at least 10 seconds of engine cranking for the fuel pump to fill the carb bowls again.

I do a ten second starter button, rest for a minute, then a 2 second blip and release. The engine usually starts on the 2nd attempt.

I am there right now today, just pulled the fuel pump, drained and flushed (w/new fuel) the gas tank of cruddy looking stuff, new fuel filter.

After I get it back together will report back on my "dry start" for you.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
456 Posts
John, you didn't say if you drained the carbs also. Unless you do that, you're not really doing a 'dry' start. Even allowing the bike to 'run out of gas' will leave a puddle in the bottem of the bowls. You are correct in your assumption that if the bowls are dry, it takes several seconds of starter to fill them up and the bike to start. You could 'prime' the system however. Apply a bit of vacuum at the 'port' in the auto fuel valve (a mityvac brake bleeder would work perfectly), jump your pos batt terminal to the lead on your pump (I'd do it with the key off) and your fuel pump should run until the bowls are full (if you suspect a float valve problem may not be a good idea).

Some 1500 owners may not be aware that it is possible (not terribly convenient) to access the flat blade bowl drain screws for the carbs through the two holes in the top of the radiator trim piece. I usually take the trim off completely 'cause it's easy and you can then shine a light in and see the screws. Not necessary to remove the plugs, just one turn and you should see fuel draining out the hose on the right side of the bike.

Regarding the no start until the button is released...usually it does seem this is a low or weak battery issue. However, a poor connection anywhere on the big pos or neg cables can also do this. I've also fixed at least one that apparently had a poor connection inside the starter relay. You can easily check this with a voltage drop test. Multimeter on DC volts and probe across the big cable terminals on the relay. When the starter button is pressed...you should read a very small drop (less than .5 DCV) across the terminals. The parasitic one I found dropped nearly 3VDC through the relay and a new one fixed it nicely.
 

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
I concur, my 1500 would start quickly with the start switch held down when there was a good battery, clean low ressitance connections and good spark plugs. It didn't take much wrong in the system to cause the engine to start on release of the switch. Fine wire plugs will help with this too, especially in cold weather. A good test is to see what the battery voltage drops to when cranking. Also check the cranking voltage further down the line from the battery. If you see much difference or drop in the voltage available at the hot side of the fuses compared to the battery when cranking there's a problem in the wiring. It could also be a weak starter that's pulling more power from the battery to crank than a better one would. Dirty and worn brushes in the starter can also cause this problem. The starter may still crank the engine okay but drawing more power to do it.
 

·
Administrator
Piaggio MP3, was 02 GL1800
Joined
·
61,669 Posts
My carb bowls were dry because the previous fuel pump locked up and the engine died for lack of fuel.

It took four ten second stabs at the starter button to prime the carbs again. The engine tried to start on the 3rd stab, but not enough fuel yet.

The 4th stab it started and ran a bit and quit.

The 5th time it kept running. On all counts, I had the fuel enrichment at full ON.

I plan on replacing the vacuum fuel shut off with an electric version, then add an extra switch to use to turn the fuel pump on before trying to start the engine.

That will make it a first time start every time with the carbs completely full.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,828 Posts
Sounds like a low voltage problem like soooo many others. They are weird animals in they will crank fast but not fire. In cars you see the same but usually they crank slow also so it gives you a better idea of what's happening.
 

·
Administrator
Piaggio MP3, was 02 GL1800
Joined
·
61,669 Posts
Mine has a recent battery and stays on a battery tender, it cranked at full speed.
Was just dry carbs that needed to be filled up.

I just never could understand why Honda decided to go with that vacuum operated fuel valve. Well I suppose they thought if the engine stops because the BAS turned it off and it is laying down, it ought to be turned off...
 

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
I've wondered the same thing, an electric solenoid valve would have made more sense to me, simpler, off the shelf, and an easier thing to install and connect. It's a lot easier to run a wire than a vacuum hose.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
456 Posts
I've wondered the same thing, an electric solenoid valve would have made more sense to me, simpler, off the shelf, and an easier thing to install and connect. It's a lot easier to run a wire than a vacuum hose.
It's not like the 1500 doesn't have enough vac lines already...maybe they figured what's one more?

Your carbs should be full when you turn your bike off under normal operating circumstances. I don't know if being able to prime by switching the pump on will solve any problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,795 Posts
For very cold days on my 1500's, my starting sequence is as follows:
1) Fully open the throttle, then close. (This puts a small squirt of fuel into the carb barrels)
2) Fully open the choke.
3) Hit starter.

I find that Step-1 is the key to getting it to fire on the first crank, even if the float bowls are low due to the bike having sat idle for awile.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top