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Greetings,
I have a 1988 Goldwing 1500 which until recently has been running like a champ, but recently when I first start the bike and it is not warm it will usually shut down when in gear. It is similar to having the kickstand down. If I shift into neutral it starts right up.
If I leave it run for 10 min until everything gets warm, I can put it into gear and usually it runs great for the rest of the day.
I have replaced the kickstand switch as well as the reverse switch and have tested the Bank Angle switch and all are working correctly.
I want to stress that at no time does the engine seem weak, when it starts it runs great with plenty of power.
I have the Clymer service and repair manual and cannot find a lot of electrical information besides the schematics and cannot find anything other than the Ignition Control Unit (and that sounds expensive).
I would greatly appreciate any and all help in tracking down this anomaly.

Regards,
Jeremi
 

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Try tapping on kill switch while it is running and cold.
 

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It aint rocket science
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Howdy Neighbor,

Do you mean it stalls when dropped into 1st.

JD
 

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I think Daveo430 has given you the scoop.
That is the most common symptom for that issue.

Glad to see you on our forum/your forum.
 

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Jeremi
Welcome to the Forum.
I am visiting friends in Milford and will be going to see my mom, who lives in Somersworth, this afternoon. I can stop by if you would like. I have my Honda manual with me. Send me a pm with your phone number. My dad was born in Plastow.
Did you try tapping on the kill switch? If that works, use some spay electrical contact cleaner on the switch and work it back and forth a few times. Let us know how you make out.
Stu
 

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Jeremi ; Stu... As you get to looking at the the tiny screws holding the wires on the back of the kill switch can walk loose as well (same symptoms, cleaning may not be the only solution there; may require a little screw-driver time)

Jeremi... If you suspect power to the ECU (you mentioned the BAS), you can leave the "CRUISE ON" button pressed in and watch the behavior of that dash indicator as you repeat the failure (power comes from te cruise/ign relay -- same thing that runs the ECU and cois...

Also worth a mention is the connector for the coils (a white 4-pin connector taped into the harness along the frame inside the Right inner fairing just forward of the tank-side ECU hangers...) that connector tends to oxidize and provide crappy sparking coditions, and can change behaviors as it warms-up.

Also, how is your coolant level? it may seem odd, but timing is controlled a little from the Ta and Tw sensor on your bike -- having the Tw not see accurate temps and also not having the carbs warm can lead to over-advanced timing with a overly lean (manifold precipitation) air/fuel mix, which can also cause initial run issues.
 

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satan wrote:
...timing is controlled a little from the Ta and Tw sensor on your bike -- having the Tw not see accurate temps and also not having the carbs warm can lead to over-advanced timing with a overly lean (manifold precipitation) air/fuel mix, which can also cause initial run issues.
> I also wonder if the Ta (Air Temp Sensor) could be the culprit... Could easily unplug it and see if the problem goes away.

> I believe the Ta sensor is located under the nose of your bike (above front wheel)... is green, aprox 3/4" diameter.
 

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You also have a carb control unit on the 88 its under the right side dash pocket make sure its pluged in tight plus you need to check the grounds beside the oil dip stick and the as they run the gear shift sensor did you add any after martket electrical gizmos that you may have taped into the main harness
 

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Who would have thought that the kill switch would cause so much trouble. When starting it yesterday and it died a tapped (actually punched) the kill switch. The bike started and is running great for 2 days now. My plan is to dismantle the kill switch and clean all the parts. To all of you who posted all I can say is thanks since I would have started pulling the the ignition system apart. This was so much easier and cheaper.
To DriverRider, Nice bike, looks exactly like mine, same color, and even the same scroll work on the bike even the scroll work is the same color and the same location. WoW
 

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Who would have thought that the kill switch would cause so much trouble. When starting it yesterday and it died a tapped (actually punched) the kill switch. The bike started and is running great for 2 days now. My plan is to dismantle the kill switch and clean all the parts. To all of you who posted all I can say is thanks since I would have started pulling the the ignition system apart. This was so much easier and cheaper.
To DriverRider, Nice bike, looks exactly like mine, same color, and even the same scroll work on the bike even the scroll work is the same color and the same location. WoW
 

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