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It says in the service book on testing to suspend in a pan of oil and check resistance, would it also work on the bike by using jumper wires connected to the 2 pins and test resistance that way? Jumper wires are to connect to the 2 pins and get them out to connect the ohm meter.

My fan is not coming on and the ohms show infinite
 

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Yes that will work, if it doesn't make continuity by the time the temp gauge reaches 3/4 it is bad.
 

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If it is not working then the easiest way to check the switch is to remove the connector and place a jumper in the holes in the connector on the end of the harness. Turn the key on and if the fan turns on then the switch is bad.
 

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Whiskerfish wrote:
If it is not working then the easiest way to check the switch is to remove the connector and place a jumper in the holes in the connector on the end of the harness. Turn the key on and if the fan turns on then the switch is bad.
Yup, thats what I did and the fan came on, so that proves that the switch is bad, now to either do the old toggle switch thing or pay for a new temp switch.

Thanks guys.
 

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Before testing the thermostatic switch, try jumping the two connections in the plug together, that should cause your fan to start if the ignition key is on.
 

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Be careful not to confuse the temperature sensor and the temperature switch. The sensor is a variable resistance that varies with engine temperature. It operates the gauge. The temp switch operates the fan and is either 0 ohms or infinite ohms.
 

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exavid wrote:
Before testing the thermostatic switch, try jumping the two connections in the plug together, that should cause your fan to start if the ignition key is on.
I did that and it does.
 

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Gofastandfalldown wrote:
Be careful not to confuse the temperature sensor and the temperature switch. The sensor is a variable resistance that varies with engine temperature. It operates the gauge. The temp switch operates the fan and is either 0 ohms or infinite ohms.
Yup , Ichecked the temp switch and it was infinite when the temp gauge was hot and the bike was running.
 

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I found a switch on ebay with the thermostat housing and thermo sensor for $20, it came off a 82 with 21k miles and garage kept. Ibought it and it should be here next week.

I would think it would be better to go oem.
 

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Sometimes the OEMfan switch is just stuck, I fixed mine this weekend, loosen the section just under the endtemp probe with a pair of small visegrips open it up and take that nail looking part out there is probably white deposits in there stopping the movement of that nail shaft, thus making your switch malfunction..test it in boiling antifreeze, I know the manual says oil but doesn't the switch lay in antifreeze in the engine... Put it back together,test it again...If it doesn't show active now it's something else..
 

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Use your favorite cooking oil for testing as it has a higher boiling temperature than water or coolant

Water boils at 212 F the fan switch may not trigger till 216 F
 

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If you don't have a mulimeter to test your switch just look at it real [measure it]good before you test it, there should be almost 1/8" gap or less under that end probe between the shaft and probe, when it closes [at the right temp] you can see the difference,It moves in a little bit, this causes the pin that lives inside to push into the unit activating the switch,I would test the switch once you remove it from the bike, make sure its not working first, then clean it all up if it's not and retest it before placing it back in on the bike. Worked for me...Littlebeaver
 
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