gl1500 rear tire removal

1856 Views 16 Replies 10 Participants Last post by rpeters549, Mar 23, 2013

whitewingguy

Discussion Starter · Mar 20, 2013

I am attempting for the first time to remove the rear tire. I have heard different ways, some saying the trunk and both saddle bags need removal, some say only the left saddle bag needs removal. anyone have some ideas where I can find the simplest way, I have the bike on a lift and the lift has a removable back tire floor and I have a jack that goes on the lift to lift the bike up on the lift.
Please help

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1 - 17 of 17 Posts

knklehd1

· #2 · Mar 20, 2013

You can remove the left saddlebag and swing out the muffler.There is a 27mm nut on the right side remove same loosen pinch bolt on left side.
THERE IS A WASHER ON THE LEFT SIDE BE MINDFUL WHERE IT IS LOCATED AND IT GOES BACK WHERE IT WAS...Sorry about caps I just want you to get it. Also here is a link...
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1500rearwheel.htm

newday777

· #3 · Mar 20, 2013

Steve
If you need me to come over holler.

ivan

· #4 · Mar 20, 2013

Steve,
I'm not sure this link will help you. There are some very large high quality pictures of the rear tire removal process. It helped me out alot the first time I did mine.

http://www.jmartino.me/goldwing/reartire/index.htm

Ivan

tlbranth

· #5 · Mar 21, 2013

There's a method involving swinging the trunk and saddlebags upwards and tying them up for quick access. Lots of people seem to use that method. I tried it ONCE and did more damage than I can even remember. As knklehd1 said, remove the left saddlebag & swing the mufflers out of the way. Wait'll you try breaking the bead......

Dannyboy1949

· #6 · Mar 21, 2013

Do yourself a favor and remove both saddlebags completely. Pay attention to how the latch cables are routed and how the plastic clips work (for reassembly)...but it's very easy. Having done the job for the first time recently I can't imagine someone screwing around trying to save 5 minutes work by swinging the bags upward to be balanced somewhere and risk damaging them, or causing themselves a whole bunch of aggravation by being too lazy to remove BOTH bags. The mufflers will swing out of the way once loosened and present no obstructions. No need to disturb the trunk.

The links provided in the posts above should help you a great deal, but one other thing is to go to your Honda dealer and buy a tube of Moly Paste for the splines (may as well do the job the way it's meant to be done). The paste is around $10 and you'll have enough to last the bike's lifetime.

As the new owner of a 1500 and having just completed a bunch of maintainence items....this is my $.02

Best of luck!

tlbranth

· #7 · Mar 21, 2013

Dannyboy1949 said:
Do yourself a favor and remove both saddlebags completely. Pay attention to how the latch cables are routed and how the plastic clips work (for reassembly)...but it's very easy. Having done the job for the first time recently I can't imagine someone screwing around trying to save 5 minutes work by swinging the bags upward to be balanced somewhere and risk damaging them, or causing themselves a whole bunch of aggravation by being too lazy to remove BOTH bags. The mufflers will swing out of the way once loosened and present no obstructions. No need to disturb the trunk.

The links provided in the posts above should help you a great deal, but one other thing is to go to your Honda dealer and buy a tube of Moly Paste for the splines (may as well do the job the way it's meant to be done). The paste is around $10 and you'll have enough to last the bike's lifetime.

As the new owner of a 1500 and having just completed a bunch of maintainence items....this is my $.02

Best of luck!

Danny - pulling the right bag is unnecessary

Sempai

· #8 · Mar 21, 2013

This job can actually be done without removing either saddlebag, but it's well worth your time to remove the left side. I'll agree, removal of the right side is not NECESSARY, but it will make the reinstall of the wheel go just a little smoother.
The job can also be done by removing the seat, loosening the pivot bolts there and the capture bolts at the bottom to where you can tilt the entire rear assembly, trunk, saddlebags, and fender right up and out of the way...getting it back in place can be tricky if you're doing it alone, but with a buddy, and on the lift, it's really a piece of cake, have it all done in a matter of minutes.

dadztoy

· #9 · Mar 21, 2013

I'll agree with those that say remove the left saddlebag - it really makes the job easier... Just be careful and mindful of the hardware as it comes off - there is a definite sequence with the spacer and washer... If you want to clean things up back there and do differential service easily, remove the right bag as well - it's only a fw more bolts...

Getting past the intimidation of removing the rear wheel the first time is the hardest part of the job... Once you have removed it and reinstalled it, you'll be smiling and saying "that wasn't bad at all"!!!

Les

whitewingguy

Discussion Starter · #10 · Mar 21, 2013

Thanks, that is what I have found. I did remove both saddlebags and the brakes, the final drive, and it all looks so easy now, Intimidation was the name of the game at the start.
Thanks for your support and everyone else on the forum

Chromo

· #11 · Mar 21, 2013

The up and over method probably works well and saves lots of time if things go smoothly.
My 88 did not go that smoothly the first time I did it. I did it alone with no help, I found a washer welded onto the slot on one side of side bag mounts which prevented the unit frame raising till I totally removed that bolt, and that drove me nuts till I figured out why it would not raise like it should. LOL
Putting back down I was also working alone and the bag mounts did not want to line up properly and it was a fight to get it back together.

Second time I did it though I knew about the welded on washer and also had wife as a helper. Removed my trailer hitch, loosened 4 bolts and mufflers and I think that was it, up and over fast! Putting back down was much easier also as I had help lining up the bag mounts since wife could push a little inward as needed.

All went great and fast that second time other than I got bit on my back by a brown recluse spider while doing it! LOL

When putting the tire on the 95 I removed the bags.
It was easy but not near as fast as the up and over method. Lots of little things to take apart and do like taking all the covers off the rear, unplugging lights, removing the bags etc... etc..
I also had to be careful to not get my parts scratched up as I took them off and layed them out. Then all that needs to be put back together again.

No big deal at the home shop to take it all apart, but if I were out on the road having to replace a damaged tire I'd probably do the up and over method so it's nice to already have done it at least once to know how and find any problems NOW at home like that welded on washer that drove me nuts on the 88 the first time. LOL

2 reasons on the road I'd probably prefer the up and over method myself.
1 if I have to go to a shop with my wheel for some reason like to buy a tire and have it mounted I would not want the rear of my 1500 laying around as a pile of parts or getting scratched up on a parking lot or shoulder of the road. I'd probably not have an old blanket with me to lay them on, and I'd hate to ruin a good sleeping bag or such that way LOL

2 if I needed to get the shop in a hurry with limited time like to buy a tire and have it mounted or such I'd want to get the wheel off the fastest possible way.

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whitewingguy

Discussion Starter · #12 · Mar 21, 2013

Is there a tutorial on the up and over method? Pictures and explanations ?
Sounds like a good thing to know for the road breakdown.
Also the welded washer. you removed it and never re welded I assume. Yes?
Thanks

Chromo

· #13 · Mar 22, 2013

NO, I left the welded washer as it was, but I now know if I need to do an up and over again that bolt needs to be taken all the way out on my 88, not just loosened.

OH, I guess the main reason I did the up and over method both times on the 88 was that there is a power amp for stereo in that right side bag, LOTS of wires, which would probably been a pain to remove and re-install and also a power inverter installed in there. That make taking the right side bag off allot more of a pain to remove!

Chromo

· #14 · Mar 22, 2013

whitewingguy said:
Is there a tutorial on the up and over method? Pictures and explanations ?
Sounds like a good thing to know for the road breakdown.
Also the welded washer. you removed it and never re welded I assume. Yes?
Thanks

I found a thread now, 4th post down are instructions for lifting the rear section up and over.

Seems the 2 lower side bolts where the slots are in side bag frames are supposed to come out!
Not just loosen them at the slots.
Well it's been about 9 or 10 months I guess since I last did the 88 and my memory is not what it used to be LOL

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/282197-rear-tire-removal-gl1500i.html

knklehd1

· #15 · Mar 22, 2013

whitewingguy

Discussion Starter · #16 · Mar 22, 2013

Wow, that was just fabulous, thank you.

rpeters549

· #17 · Mar 23, 2013

Even though you already did it, a thought: If you are taking the time to go half-way, it is the perfect time to drain and refill the rear gear case. Not nearly as convenient with the bag in the way.
I may have to try the up/over method sometime though. If it allows me to leave the hitch on (removing the bolts that secure to the rear crash bars of course) than it might be nice.

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