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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys and gals...



Yesterday, a problem reared it's ugly head- Reverse stopped working.

When I put the reverse lever in place, the reverse light comes on.

When I hit the starter/reverse button, the radio mutes and the electrical sysyem dims as it should.

The bike reverses about 2" and then nothing.

Sometimes if I hit the starter/reverse button again, the reverse light goes out.

The bike is still in reverse mode as the lever is still in place and the bike will not roll in either direction as it should.

If I put the reverse lever down, and then up again, I get the 2" movement, repeated attempt the reverse light goes out, etc.

I searched this site but didn't see anything popping out with these symptoms.

Please help, I don't want any Harley guys teasing me about not having reverse...;)

:praying:

Thanx!
 

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Hang tough, someone will know exactly what it is. I personally suspect the cable adjustment is outa whack? I do know if the marks are not dead on, it will not work properly. jimsjinx
 

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Use the search tool," reverse problems "
 

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Adjust the reverse cables, as per the manual
 

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Lost on this *****
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I had very similar symptoms a few years ago. Then the headlight would not work.
Turned out being the "dirty start button". I've not had to make any adjustments to my reverse cables since I've owned the bike (now knocking on wood :ssshh:).
Try giving the start button a spray of cleaner/WD-40 and see if that helps.
 

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GL1500 Reverse Starts, then Quits

This is a fail-safe mode of operation for the 1500's reverse.

When you first engage reverse there's a "safety check" and that'll light the "R" lamp. As you press the Start/Reverse switch the Reverse Control Unit will engage the starter motor at full current for a second or two and THEN begin looking for the control data. Basically the Reverse system is LOAD and SPEED controlled and monitors current used by the starter motor for that data... Without that data present (or if it's out of range) the Reverse system will shut-down and the "R" indicator will go out. Moving the lever back to normal operation and again back to reverse is resetting that system and restarting the sequence.

As mentioned above, sometimes thrust on the reverse gearing will push that cable linkage stuff just out of position far enough to kick the system out of operation as well, so adjustment is always worth a double-check.



In the "real world" (once the mechanical adjustments are addressed) the electrical issue is usually a loose or incorrect connection somewhere along the line, if there are no recent modifications or damage.
  • First stop would be to take a look at the 5A fuse near the ground post of your battery (there's 2 of em in a floppy rubber sleeve thingy). One of these fuses is in that 'sensing' circuit for the reverse speed for the starter motor. If it's blown, you will get this symptom.
  • While you're in the area, look for loose connections and relays there (just above the rear brake master cylinder cap) - relays there are involved with the speed control and feedback for the reverse - Acid spills and vapors can corrode connections, checking brake fluid fill levels may cause bumping of connections, as can battery maintenance/charging, etc...
  • Check the connections at Starter Solenoid B (the one that goes direct to the starter, on the lower frame rail under the "oil-check' side cover). A loose connection here can cause spikes to the sensing circuit.
  • Pull the seat; check the connections at the 65A dogbone under the seat (and also the CONDITION of that dogbone). This is checked for continuity during the 'safety check' and the "R" shouldn't light if this is bad, BUT... the check is made with low-current and in operation this thing can see some serious current and expose contamination and fractures.
  • Also, check (and recheck) connections for the Reverse Control Unit: With the seat off; near the top of the right shock you'll see a 6pin White connector (inside the frame) and a Red lots'a-pins connector (outside the frame), open those check em and put em back together. The control unit is under the trunk (larger box on the left side with white connector) Wiggle it and/or re-seat it if you can...
  • Check connections for the resistor pack (especially if the pack or battery has been disturbed - pack is behind/beneath the battery, one brown plastic connector; other wires are large) - gotta pull the battery box for this
Like I was saying, most of the time, something's just been bumped loose and these cleaning/wiggle checks will turn it out in no time.

Was any work recently done? connections at and behind/beneath the battery are always getting disturbed.

Just for fun, are you on an incline? (try it the other way'round to see if you have the same symptom).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Satan, you are an angel... lol

I will go down your list, and let you know... thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I AM A MIRACLE WORKER!!!! :bow:
IT WORKS!!!!

Actually, I have no idea what happened... I just tried reverse, and it worked...I didn't do anything yet, it just worked... lol

I have tools and my bike FEARS me!!! :lash:


:ROFL:
 

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I AM A MIRACLE WORKER!!!! :bow:
IT WORKS!!!!

Actually, I have no idea what happened... I just tried reverse, and it worked...I didn't do anything yet, it just worked... lol

I have tools and my bike FEARS me!!! :lash:


:ROFL:
Amazing how some things just fix themselves,,,eh??
But then,,,,, is it fixed?????? What made it quit working in the first place??? I would suspect dirty,sticky switch :?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah, getting into all the stalk switches and cleaning them is on my list for maintenance. I am collecting all the things I will need for my 'special alone time' with my bike... ;-) Things like filters, plugs, oils, coolant, DOT5, LEDs, etc...
 

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The start contacts and the headlight contacts in the switch are 2 separate switches and have nothing at all to do with each other except they are operated by the same button, if the start switch was bad the starter would not have worked either.
 

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This is a fail-safe mode of operation for the 1500's reverse.

When you first engage reverse there's a "safety check" and that'll light the "R" lamp. As you press the Start/Reverse switch the Reverse Control Unit will engage the starter motor at full current for a second or two and THEN begin looking for the control data. Basically the Reverse system is LOAD and SPEED controlled and monitors current used by the starter motor for that data... Without that data present (or if it's out of range) the Reverse system will shut-down and the "R" indicator will go out. Moving the lever back to normal operation and again back to reverse is resetting that system and restarting the sequence.

As mentioned above, sometimes thrust on the reverse gearing will push that cable linkage stuff just out of position far enough to kick the system out of operation as well, so adjustment is always worth a double-check.



In the "real world" (once the mechanical adjustments are addressed) the electrical issue is usually a loose or incorrect connection somewhere along the line, if there are no recent modifications or damage.
  • First stop would be to take a look at the 5A fuse near the ground post of your battery (there's 2 of em in a floppy rubber sleeve thingy). One of these fuses is in that 'sensing' circuit for the reverse speed for the starter motor. If it's blown, you will get this symptom.
  • While you're in the area, look for loose connections and relays there (just above the rear brake master cylinder cap) - relays there are involved with the speed control and feedback for the reverse - Acid spills and vapors can corrode connections, checking brake fluid fill levels may cause bumping of connections, as can battery maintenance/charging, etc...
  • Check the connections at Starter Solenoid B (the one that goes direct to the starter, on the lower frame rail under the "oil-check' side cover). A loose connection here can cause spikes to the sensing circuit.
  • Pull the seat; check the connections at the 65A dogbone under the seat (and also the CONDITION of that dogbone). This is checked for continuity during the 'safety check' and the "R" shouldn't light if this is bad, BUT... the check is made with low-current and in operation this thing can see some serious current and expose contamination and fractures.
  • Also, check (and recheck) connections for the Reverse Control Unit: With the seat off; near the top of the right shock you'll see a 6pin White connector (inside the frame) and a Red lots'a-pins connector (outside the frame), open those check em and put em back together. The control unit is under the trunk (larger box on the left side with white connector) Wiggle it and/or re-seat it if you can...
  • Check connections for the resistor pack (especially if the pack or battery has been disturbed - pack is behind/beneath the battery, one brown plastic connector; other wires are large) - gotta pull the battery box for this
Like I was saying, most of the time, something's just been bumped loose and these cleaning/wiggle checks will turn it out in no time.

Was any work recently done? connections at and behind/beneath the battery are always getting disturbed.

Just for fun, are you on an incline? (try it the other way'round to see if you have the same symptom).
I know this is an "Old thread" but I have to say, Thank You. I was having trouble with my reverse, It's been years since the last time i used it, until a ride this past weekend, It Wouldn't work! After reading here I did the adjustments but it still would turn on & off fast then stop. I thought about it a while & decided to pull the seat & check everything, well I had a wire (left side of battery) that came loose! replaced it & Reverse works great!! THANK YOU!!
 

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Yep, it is an old post but this could help someone in the future.

I know of 4 cases where there was a very similar situation with the reverse as the original poster had.

Two cases was a faulty 65-amp speed limiter fuse. Not allowing enough amperage through to operate the reverse system.

Two cases was a loose connector (4-pin Red) at the starter relay regulator.

I do remember that case of the speed limiter fuse not being connected to the negative battery terminal..........!!
 

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FWIW: Have owned our '95 GL1500SE 13 years now. When my reverse stopped working in spring of '13, discovered micro switch @ rear of reverse lever, under left 'tupperware' cover had completely corroded to rust on inside. As soon as new switch installed, all was well again; no trouble since...cruise even works better than before! TTFN & RIDE SAFE ALWAYS .....Old Tom aka papasmurf in NH
 

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Yep, it is an old post but this could help someone in the future.

I know of 4 cases where there was a very similar situation with the reverse as the original poster had.

Two cases was a faulty 65-amp speed limiter fuse. Not allowing enough amperage through to operate the reverse system.

Two cases was a loose connector (4-pin Red) at the starter relay regulator.

I do remember that case of the speed limiter fuse not being connected to the negative battery terminal..........!!
Not to change the subject but that's a nice looking ride in your avatar! ;) What year is it?
 

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Reverse Lever Switch

Won't help you now but might someone else.

Easy way to verify operation of the reverse lever switch, check for voltage on the black/white and the white/blue wires at the 22-pin Red connector under the seat (behind the right saddlebag). Much easier than removing the left fairing inner cover.....!

FWIW: Have owned our '95 GL1500SE 13 years now. When my reverse stopped working in spring of '13, discovered micro switch @ rear of reverse lever, under left 'tupperware' cover had completely corroded to rust on inside. As soon as new switch installed, all was well again; no trouble since...cruise even works better than before! TTFN & RIDE SAFE ALWAYS .....Old Tom aka papasmurf in NH
 
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