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I am having RPM problems with my '91 1500. When I put it in gear, it drops 700-900 RPMs. I have to keep the idle speed adjusted to about 1500 RPMs or higher so it won't stall when I come to a stop. I recently had the carb cleaned by the dealer because the bike sat idle for about 6 months while I was overseas. When I came back home, I had a difficult time getting the bike to idle without surging. I was hoping the cleaning would fix my problems, but it has not. Although the bike runs fine once I put it in gear and get moving, I still have issues when I come to a stop. I don't like having the bike idle at such high RPMs. Does anybody have any suggestions? I have looked at the old postings, but there are so many, I don't know where to begin my search. Thanks.
 

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Still Learning
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Welcome back home short-round!
Unfortunately sounds like they didn't do a quality job rebuilding the carbs. Is there old gad in the tank? Rust in the tank? Dirty fuel filter? I use napa 3003 gas filter. Loose the rubber holder as the napa filter is bigger diameter, it fits snug.
Or is the petcock leaking? Or is there a vacuum leak?
Hope that gets you started on the road again.
God bless
 

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It aint rocket science
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Sounds like the clutch is not disengaging properly. This is most likely due to a gunked up hydraulic clutch system.

With the bike on the center stand and side stand up, tire off the floor. Pull clutch all the way in and put in gear. Rear wheel should be spinning but easily stopped with some resistance on the sidewall. Two people make the job safer. I use my boot but be careful not to get sucked up.:shock:

JD
 

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What is the idle in neutral? 1500rpm? Simply putting in gear shouldn't have any measurable effects as long as the clutch is working correctly. Either the clutch is dragging, or you have incorrectly stated your complaint?



I hesitate to even bring this up, as I've never heard of it on a goldwing.....but......

applying the clutch may be putting enough force on the crankshaft that a bad thrust surface may allow the crank to move, putting stress on the rods and effectively slowing the engine. Haven't seen it in years. Pretty far fetched.
 

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I think this is related, Short. I could never get my bike in neutral when hot. After reading a similar whine in the GWRRA rag, Stu Oltman told the whiner that his clutch wasn't disengaging fully. I took that as being my problem and although I had bled the life out of it in the past, I suspected air at the banjo bolt and bled the bolt per Steve Saunders' instructions. I can put the thing in neutral now. Tried the same fix for the front brake with no luck though.
 

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It would have to be a whopper of a drag on the clutch for the rpms to drop that much, so much so that you would have to hold the brakes on to keep it from moving. If it does not move with the engine running in gear with the clutch pulled in and no brake, it is not likely the clutch.
 

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I have the idle set to 1500 RPMs because when I put the bike in gear, the RPMs drop to 750-850.

If I keep the idle at 900RPMs, then the bike stalls when I put it in gear.

Why would putting the bike in gear make any difference if the clutch is working properly? I think I am going to look at the clutch first. I will let you know what I find.
 

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1500 RPM then down to about 900 RPM and the bike stalls, right? If the bike is in 1st gear at 900 and all brakes off, the clutch left out, does the bike creep forward? Try this in an open and safe place. If it is going forward and you de-clutch does movement forward change, slow or stop? Does RPM increase?

Give as much detail as you can.

Hydraulics does play a critical role with clutch pressure, if hydraulically you can not remove the slave or actuator upon the clutch assembly and the clutch assembly then has to contend with more or less friction upon its surface.

But when in idle at no gear selection what is engine RPM? It sounds like you raised it up because when in gear that's when problems take place. And from what I read it sounds like you have clutch plate engagement but little or excessive plate control.

The differences from too much to too little clutch control can be clutch not enough friction material, too little thrust upon the clutch. The hydraulics handles this so the guys are giving good advice...but it is confusing as to what you are going through because of not enough detail.

Am I second guessing???
 

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Did the dealer resync the carbs once they rebuilt them or did you just take them off and take them in for service? The surging idle tells me that you have a vacuum leak or the carb sync is way off. The surging will not come from a clutch issue. If you put your bike in gear and it starts to pull the bike when the clutch lever is just slightly away from the handle bar the clutch is dragging. If it takes maybe more than half way out for the clutch to engage the clutch is not the problem. If the clutch test I just described works,then I would put sync gages on it and first check the carb sync and if off, shoot some carb spray around the hoses and manifold looking for a vacuum leak. If you find leaking gasket/hoses repair them and re-sync the carbs if the sync is off. Good luck!
 

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the dealer did not sync the carbs that I know of. I will call them tomorrow.
I tested the clutch and it seems to work fine. With the bike on the center stand, The idle at 1500 RPMs, I squeezed in the clutch. There was no RPM change. Then with the clutch lever squeezed, I put the bike in 1st gear. The rear tire did not rotate, but the RPMs dropped from 1500 to 750-800. I let the clutch lever out and the tire started to rotate and the RPMs remained at 750-800. I squeezed the clutch lever again and I could stop the tire rotation with my foot, but the RPMs remained at 750-800. I put the bike into neutral and the RPMs immediately returned to 1500 RPMs. Squeezing the clutch lever in and out made no difference in the RPMs.
One additional piece of information is that while the bike warms up, the RPMs fluctuate between 950 and 1500 until the bike is good and warmed up. Then the RPMs hold steady at 1500.

I did not spray any carb cleaner around the vacuum hoses yet. I hope to try this later this week. I return to work tomorrow and my schedule doesn't allow a lot of evening trouble shooting time. Thanks for any ideas.
 

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This is beginning to sound like an electrical problem more than a clutch problem. If the clutch is disengaging completely, which it obviously is if the rear wheel doesn't spin with the clutch in, then the clutch has nothing to do with it. Unfortunately I am not familiar with the 1500.
 

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Curious, does the OD light come on only in 5th gear like it should.

Also check to see if the RPM's change in 2nd thru 5th like they do for first gear.

And the neutral light works as it should.

JD
 

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I do not own a 1500, but could the the description be a loading up of oil pressures or a drag on belts, pulleys. From the sounds of it , the bike loads up in gear, what else takes place at that time? Coincidences ? The electric alternator is outside of the motor via a belt, what else is belt driven?

Internally is the oil pump, is there a pump within the transmission that may drag the motor down?

Sorry I have questions but no answer, but a failing idler bearing in the transmission or gear bearing will put excess loads on a motor and from the description the transmission plays a big part of the problem....I hope this helps more than hinders.
 

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Hi Short Round,

I have almost the identical issue with my 1500SE, also 1991, but mine is a Japanese import Gold Anniversary Edition. Mine does not stall, but the engine definitely drops some RPM when in gear. I bought mine in 2003 and it had been sitting around a while unused. It also had a very low mileage, so nothing really worn out, but certainly could have some rubber hosedeterioration. I pulled the carbs and cleaned all the jets and drillways andsynched them,which cured the usual hesitation off-idle, but the rpm drop is still there and I just live with it - mine is not as excessive as yours though. I have no clutch drag but the revs certainly increase a tad when I select neutral. I can't be specific about the number of revs change, but will check next time I'm out on it. Like all of the other posters it has stumped me. I have come to the same conclusion as JERRY H, that it must be an electrical issue.

When a gear is selected and the neutral light goes out, are there any solenoids/relays which are actuated - dunno. Or is there an air valve which changes position - dunno that either. Like you I would really like to know if it's something that can be fixed.
 

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I love these things...

How does it behave as you put it into reverse? (neutral light goes out, "N" lights, but the Gear switch is still in neutral...) do you have the same RPM drop?

Also, can you try all the conditions you mention with the side-stand up, and again wih the stand down ("Side Stand" dash lamp illuminated) to see if there is any change in symptoms induced from the sidestand...(of course putting in gear with the side stand down should kill the bike, but does it ?)...

Does operating your air pump affect any change?

Since there's no electronic control of the idle or fuel on a 1500, and the "symptom" persists with the clutch in or out and is only dependant on Neutral (so far)... I would also suspect electircal issues. Specifically a weak ground, or failed diode in the reverse diode assembly.

Loosen, clean, and reattach the ground located on the frame just above the oil dipstick. You can find this by tracing along the negative lead from the battery. Aslo, check the ground to the engine block (directly above the reverse cable bell crank there on the right side of the block... kinda "between' the cables as you look in at it)

It may be of value to check/clean connectors at the ECU and the 4-pin white connector taped into the harness just above this same ground (you'll need to pull the right iner fairing to get at these).
 

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Thanks for that, SATAN, and I hope that Short-Round, you are not mad at me for hi-jacking your thread - but it's the first time I've seen any reference to this particular fault.

I will check all of those things you suggest.

I can say already that the revs don't drop when reverse is selected and that the sidestand kills the motor OKwhen put down in gear. Also the neutral light goes out and the 'R' comes on in reverse. I have not noticed any change with the air-pump. I can imagine that there could be an earthing fault on mine after it sat for so long in it's early life.
 

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Hello. I´m having the same problem with my 1990 gl 1500. Revs drop the same way as you have described. I´m curious about that did you get this problem solved? Thanks in advance!
 

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Welcome to the forum Jasmo
Glad to see you did a forum search. This is a year old posting and the OP hasn't posted many posts since he joined, so if you want an answer from him, best to send him a PM.
 
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