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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The emergency flasher button and the cruise on/off button stick on. I m not too concerned about the cruise button sticking, but the emergency flasher..

Are these two buttons easily cleaned/lubed? Is the disassembly/assembly very complicated..like parts falling on the floor during disassembly? The motorcycle is a 96 wing.

Thanks,eh?

Brad
 

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Split the switch housings and take a good contact cleaner with the thin red tube attached and flush the buttons out while exercising the switches - hold the red tube close to the offending switch and point it in to any hole in the switch that is accessible - that should do it...

Les
 

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Just remember to put a cloth under the switch when you spray the contact cleaner to make sure the cleaner do NOT drop on your painting.
 

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Just remember to put a cloth under the switch when you spray the contact cleaner to make sure the cleaner do NOT drop on your painting.
Alternatively the wife's best towels work just as well if not better!:cheesygrin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Alternatively the wife's best towels work just as well if not better!:cheesygrin:
This will give me an excuse for brownie points. I can hear her now..

"WTF,Dear...YOU did LAUNDRY??"
 

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A little hint.........make sure your eyes are well protected. Don't ask me how I know.

Been there, done that haven't you!!!!!!!
 

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Taking the housing apart is probably the better way to do it, but I was able to squirt enough contact cleaner in beside both of those switches as well as the mute switch for the stereo in order to bring all of them back from being non operational. I also used it on the headlight dimmer switch. I used a radio tuner spray available from Radio Shack that indicated it would not adversely affect plastic components. Spray it in, work it (sometimes a lot(not kidding, hundreds of presses before the mute switch began working)) and then I also sprayed in compressed air and followed up with contact cleaner again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A little hint.........make sure your eyes are well protected. Don't ask me how I know.

Been there, done that haven't you!!!!!!!
Ahh,yes,I have! I crawled up onto an engine my son and his friend built. I was gonna squirt carb cleaner in the overflow tube of the carb with hopes to clean out the sticking float. Result: direct squirt in my eye,ending with me screaming like a banshee running around the yard looking, and finally finding, the garden hose. I m a bit surprised that the neighbors didn't call 911! I sounded like someone who got stabbed in the eye by a madman with an icepick! ("MY EYE! MY EYE! I'M GONNA LOSE MY @*&%$# EYE!" AYYEEEEE!)

Thanks for the suggestions! And have a great Monday,eh?
 

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Be careful!!

Some of that contact cleaner will melt plastic!!! Be sure what you are using is safe for plastic parts. What I do is split the housing and pull the switch away from the housing and spray cleaner in the switch and work it back and forth until its clean. Then I use WD-40 after the contact cleaner to lube the switch up good and then follow that with a good blast of compressed air to remove the excess. Works every time. Don't make the mistake of prying that switch out to get it to turn off. If you happen to break that little connector inside then you are screwed. You can't buy just the switch, you get to buy the whole 9 yards, harness and all.
 

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Split the switch housings and take a good contact cleaner with the thin red tube attached and flush the buttons out while exercising the switches - hold the red tube close to the offending switch and point it in to any hole in the switch that is accessible - that should do it...
+1... the actual hazard switch has a clear plastic cover over the "guts"... you need to apply the spray cleaner beneath that, in order to release the gunked-up up (spring and wire toggle) innards. You can typically fix the problem like this, but if not then the next step is to remove that cover too, disassemble the innards, then re-assemble --I don't recomend that though, as it can be very difficult to work with the small pieces, and it's typically not necessary anyway.
 

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Good info here!

I've always wonderd what the point of having the Cruise switch is...seems like a useless item anyway (other than to kill the cruise light). Talking to other owners, that switch seems to be the most common one to become non-functional and sticks in the On position (like mine). If any of my other switches stick I'll likely take the time to fix the cruise and clean them all while I'm at it.

My front brake light switch has become intermitant and I found the terminals to be a little loose in the switch housing...so I've orded a new one. Honda wants about $12 for it and that seems very reasonable.
 

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I took my on/off switches apart to clean them. My bike is an 88 that sat for 8 years before I took ownership. The electric grease in the switches was very sticky and the switch would not release even after contact cleaner. If you take them apart, go very slow. The switch can be a pain to remove from the housing. I repeat, take your time and go slow if you are going this route. Like others have said, there are a lot of small parts in there. I also found that the copper contacts were all corroded and needed to be cleaned. I put new electric grease in there and they all turn on and off very smoothly. Also did the turn signal switch. With new grease, I am now good for another 25 years!

I was able to get the toggle switches working with only the contact cleaner.
 

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Same problem on a GL1100

I'm having the same problem with the start button on my GL1100. Just spraying contact cleaner hasn't solved it. Does all the advice above also apply to this switch?

To take apart the module to get to the switch, do you just pry the kill switch lever up? In addition to removing the three screws, I mean. Thanks.
 
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