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Do I have to remove the fork tubes to adjust the head bearing or can I just remove the bars and upper fork clamp to adjust?



Thank you

Dave
 

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The Irish Crew
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Bars and top bridge will work Dave. This guide for bearings replacement will show what you need to remove to get to the top bridge..

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1500steering.htm

Put a jack under the engine because when you pull the top bridge all the weight of the bike will be on the lower fork clamps.
 

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Pwhoever
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I may be wrong but IIRC, for adjusting, you don't need to remove the top bridge. Only the handlebars. I usually use an oversize towel on the top of the shelter to lay the handlebars on. At the base of the steering tube though is the auto turn signal cancel unit. That has to be removed. When you pull the rubber cap with wiring in it on top, spray a little wd-40 on the wiring sheath and that will help to slide that cap as far down the wiring sheath as you can. This will provide enough slack to get to the connector for the auto turn signal cancel unit once you remove it out of the base. Pay very close attention to how it is fitted as it needs to be put in the same way otherwise it may not function correctly after being reinstalled. There is 3 screws that need to be removed to get it out.
 

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:waving:Welcome and Hello . I love the beautiful part of the country your in . Wish it time to retire out that way .There are many wonderful folks here to share info with .Enjoy the forums and visit often .
 

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Anti-Guru
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Howdy Neighbor...

Yeah the upper tripple-clamp does need to come off but there's no need to fuss with the tubes or the lower clamp if you're just gonna adjust things.

As mentined, the turn cancel unit mounts from the bottome, connects through the center of the tube then has the bike-side harness run though the top tripple-clamp and everything else. Any way ya go, you'll be needing to arrange some slack in that harness.

Recommended procedure is above - get the slack then remove and disconnect the cancel unit from below.

If you have an open-sided castle-wrench (for the bearing's nut) and a open-sided wrench for the steering stem top-nut (torque here is 72ft-lb, so a flare-nut style crows foot will work), AND you can get enough slack in the turn-canceling harness to thread the upper tripple-clamp and it's nut up outta the way - there's no need to remove the turn cancel unit or fuss with it's connector. This can save ya a few minutes, but often is more of a hassle with all the loose bits treaded onto the bike's harness like a 50-pound necklace.
 

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Best looking member
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satan wrote:

"This can save ya a few minutes, but often is more of a hassle with all the loose bits treaded onto the bike's harness like a 50-pound necklace."

Mr. T made a very good living for a long time with a 50 lbs. necklace.:cheesygrin:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
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Thanks for all the input, I could not get enough slack in the wiring down the fork tube to unclip the harness, in fact I couldn't even see the connection to undo it. I could not get it pulled down enough to clear the black shaft on the canceller where there wires go into, I probably needed at lease 3 more inches to get to the connection
 

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Do yourself a favor before just trying to torque them down. Check for notches on the bearings and just replace if they are notched.

It takes 5 extra minutes to just check if they are badly notched.

Put the bike on the centerstand.
Use a floor jack and raise the front end just enough so the front wheel can freely turn from side to side without touching the ground.

Center the front wheel and slowly move it from side to side feeling for notches in the steering head bearings.
 

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I have put it all back together now, there is BARELY any play in it. I thought if it was an easy fix I would get it this morning. I will get to it in a couple of weeks as I will be doing other work on it during the winter
 

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dhanson wrote:
I have put it all back together now, there is BARELY any play in it. I thought if it was an easy fix I would get it this morning. I will get to it in a couple of weeks as I will be doing other work on it during the winter
Mine has been getting put off for winter since half way through summer ;)

Mine were torqued down this spring but they are notched and need to be replaced.
 

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Dave - I did the same maintenance to mine this summer and initially got stumped at the same point where you were. In order to get enough slack on the turn signal wire, you have to pull the wire out of 3 or 4 of the wiring harness clips (the more you do, the more slack you get), starting at the top of the steering stem and working down toward the front tire. That will give you the slack you need. The connector is INSIDE the tube the wire runs through. You need to remove the flat plate from under the fairing and pull the connector down toward the front tire to disconnect it.

Once you get that connector out, the rest is simple as is re-assembly.
 
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