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GL1500 stall

9564 Views 78 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  toolcraft4100
I just bought a used 1991 1500 with 93,000 miles. It seems to be in pretty good shape, but the PO has no service records and the bike needs some attention. The price was right, but I should have looked her over better and test-rode her longer.
Last night I was riding with a passenger (maybe 350lbs. total). Temps were in the high sixties and we got into some traffic. Sat and idled for several minutes at a time. Went maybe a mile idling at lights and creeping along. Several times the bike stalled or almost stalled when taking off from a stop. Seemed to idle ok and ran ok once we got moving. Started right up when I killed it, but I'm not sure what the stalling means. The temp guage needle was pointed straight up when we were in traffic and dropped back down when we got moving again.
Where should I start troubleshooting?

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I've been troubleshooting a similar problem on my '91 GL1500SE. It would run smooth and gradually loose power. I've changed the most likely parts already:
- fuel filter,
- fuel pump,
- temporarily bypassed vacuum fuel petcock (to prove it wasn't the problem),
- replaced alternator with a new Compufire...
All of the above didn't change anything... time to get really serious;
- pulled carb, inspected the rubber diaphragms (no cracks or pinholes),
- with the carb removed I thoroughly inspected the vacuum lines... they're in great shape/no problem found,
- took carb to best Goldwing mechanic in the city for thorough carb inspection... he found the float height set a tad high (which he corrected), but otherwise OK.
- next most likely thing to check is the ignition coils, and I've just replaced them (the carb needs to be removed, as does the rad overflow tank, to access the ignition coils BTW).
I mention all this as troubleshooting these kinds of issues can be difficult and not inexpensive - the work I've done to date would've cost me dearly at a dealer. I'm about to reinstall the carb and shoot for a test drive when I've got it back together enough. Complicated machines! Interested in hearing what fixes your problem.
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Sorry to hear you're stuck with it. I'm going thru a similar issue with my '91 SE - thread here:

I found Jim Martino's guide on carb removal/installation very useful: Yes, I think you should pull the carb and have a good look at all the vacuum lines... suggest returning it to stock condition. Although I've bought some parts off eBay, I have also bought new OEM replacement Honda parts too - many/most still available. I've been buying my parts from Cyclemax.

You really need a Clymer manual. I've got both a Clymer & Honda manual... interesting seeing the differences between them. A '94 manual will probably work for you (mine is for a '98!).

Good luck and keep us posted. Always good to see what works to keep 'em running.

Edit - BTW, Cyclemax is selling the auto fuel petcock rebuild kits again... just ordered one myself.
Apparently different years had components in different locations (great huh)...
That's where the Clymer manual is so handy. They've done their best to try to capture and illustrate the changes over the model years, and with the California models.
OK, I ordered a Randakk rebuild kit and I began disaasembly of the carbs. I got one float bowl off and pulled the float and valve, no problem. Pulled the main jet. Now what? I am following along in my Clymer and referencing the (94) Honda Manual, but should I just keep tugging and wiggling the main jet holder until it pops off? And what's up with the slow jet? I've got a pair of mini-channelocks that I tried to grip it with, but it does not turn. It looks like a smooth brass cylinder with a hole in the top.
I don't want to damage anything, but it's all gotta come apart!

Personally myself I'd just be checking to ensure the orifices aren't clogged/gummed up. Spray carb cleaner, and appropriate sized nylon bristle brush type material is what many guys use for this kind of thing. Some of the smaller orifices might require some real ingenuity to find something suitable. The goal is not to change the orifice diameters or damage 'em in any way. The smaller idle circuits (pilot jets, etc.) tend to be the ones that usually gum up.
Ultrasonic cleaning

I have successfully used ultrasonic cleaning to clean carbs. Absolutely the safest/best way to degunk a carb IMO. You have to really ensure the cleaning fluid used is safe to use on aluminum (and rubber O-rings) tho. Also, forgot to mention previously that compressed air is very helpful in cleaning clogged orifices.
Congrats! Must feel good to get it back on the road.
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