GL1500 stall

The 94 manual should be close enough and if questions arise you can always get them answered here. It will sound a little more difficult then it actually is, all the solenoid valves and controllers for the vacuum system should have the hose #'s stamped or decaled on them and is just a process of putting Humpty-Dumpty back together. OEM hoses are colored coded also according to what system they belong to. Study the diagrams and get to know where each valve is located and what the proper name of it is. Pictures help alot here when asking for help as other members can compare what a correctly plumbed system should resemble. Forget about the fuel valve for now as that can be done anytime after it is running correctly.

In your pics I did not see any vacuum lines going to the bottom of the air box for the hot air door of intake? or are they just out of the way. What exactly is the engine doing again (backfiring, stalling, rough idle,popping thru carb, hard start, skipping, flat spots, etc.) to sum it up and do yourself a favor and DIAGNOSE what the engine is or is not doing prior to taking it apart. This gives you important clues as to what systems need to be zeroed in on for a successful repair. A vacuum pump and gauge will be essential here. Start with ign. system and then to carburation, some problems may be found and corrected before the real work starts such as the simple connecting of the yellow hose. A compression test of the engine might also be advisable if you can't get it to run decently during the diagnosing stage. During the diagnose stage you leave the air box off and vacuum lines to it plugged and if needed road test it around the block that way.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums.../426066-1500-fuel-mixture-diagnosis-test.html

toolcraft4100 said:

I found another yellow hose right next to the first one that was plugged off. I have studied the sparsely labeled diagram of the shot air system in the manual and am having difficulty seeing where the hoses go and matching what I see on the bike to what I see in the book. Hopefully I can get these hoses reconnected, ride it, and record what I experience. Maybe a miracle will occur. Is it important to test drive with the airbox off and hoses plugged? It does not take much to reinstall it.
I discovered the air pre-filter that filters the air supply to the carb-jet solenoids (I believe all that terminology is correct). The filter element was dry, brittle and had a hole in the middle. It turned to powder when I handled it. Could unfiltered air or particles of filter media contaminate the solenoids and effect the carb performance?
If I buy new bulk vacuum hose at the auto parts store are there key words I need to use to assure I get the right product?HoganJr

Click to expand...

AICV solenoid valve is on left tube above horn in front of fan, Decel compensation valve (Shot) is under left pocket area, Air injection control valve is between the intake manifolds under carbs, shot air valve is under carbs left front, shot air solenoid valve (neutral) with hoses #3 & 4 front of carbs under coils, air jet controllers under right pocket. AFAIK air jet controllers work on the slide circuits of carbs and should not affect idle. Yellow is decel compensation, green for air injection, carb and air jet controllers use white. The above from my 88, YMMV.

If you want to take the box on and off each time started or ridden you might as well put zippers on it, you aint in a Okie dustbowl and for your testing purposes will not change the mixture or running quality to a hill of beans. Gear shift sensor affects operation of the above valves, did your neutral and OD lights work, if so you can give that a cursory pass for now.

Pic was from Tim IIRC regarding vac hose sizing.

From the manual for Shot Air System:

INTAKE MANIFOLD SHOT AIR (DECEL COMPENSATION) SYSTEM.



Due to the large 1500 cm3 engine displacement and the fact that the valve timing has a small intake/exhaust overlapping, the
compression braking effect during deceleration is strong.
The shot air system has been incorporated to moderate compression braking and improve riding comfort.
The shot air system supplies air to the intake manifolds during deceleration to prevent sudden induction of strong manifold
vacuum.
As illustrated, the intake manifold vacuum acts on the lower diaphragm chamber of the shot air valve through No.1 and No.2
tubes. When vacuum rises during deceleration, the diaphragm is pulled down to allow air from the air cleaner to enter the intake
manifolds.
To ensure a natural deceleration feeling when the engine is revved up and down with the transmission in neutral, the solenoid
valve (Neutral) opens the vacuum route to the upper chamber of the shot air valve when neutral is detected by the gearshift
sensor. Under these conditions, the shot air valve remains closed.
Engine rotation per minute is detected by the pulse generator and signals are transmitted to the carburetor control unit via the
ignition control unit. The solenoid valve 2 opens when engine speed is above 2,000 min-1 (rpm) to increase air supply. In addition
to air through No.7 tube, air flows through No.6 tube, solenoid valve, and No. 10 tube.
The one-way valve is provided in the three-way joint near the intake manifolds. The one-way valve prevents manifold
pressure interference.

Look under the left pocket.