That's where the Clymer manual is so handy. They've done their best to try to capture and illustrate the changes over the model years, and with the California models.
That's where the Clymer manual is so handy. They've done their best to try to capture and illustrate the changes over the model years, and with the California models.Apparently different years had components in different locations (great huh)...
I got my Clymer Manual over the weekend and have begun to study the diagrams, match the networks on the bike with the pictures and troubleshoot the systems. I have a couple of questions that I thought I'd bring to you all for your assistance.That's where the Clymer manual is so handy. They've done their best to try to capture and illustrate the changes over the model years, and with the California models.
1) The main valve is between the 2 intake manifolds and under the carbs, it looks like a EGR valve from a car. The solenoid valve looks like a mini hand grenade and is attached to left frame tube above horn (my ride) and is nothing more than a barometric pressure sensor..
1. Where is the Air Injection Valve on a 1990 or 1991 and what does it look like?
2. Where are the One-Way Valves and what do they look like?
3. The #4 Green Hose: Is that the large-diameter hose that comes out of the front-right corner of the Air Box?
hoganJr
Personally myself I'd just be checking to ensure the orifices aren't clogged/gummed up. Spray carb cleaner, and appropriate sized nylon bristle brush type material is what many guys use for this kind of thing. Some of the smaller orifices might require some real ingenuity to find something suitable. The goal is not to change the orifice diameters or damage 'em in any way. The smaller idle circuits (pilot jets, etc.) tend to be the ones that usually gum up.OK, I ordered a Randakk rebuild kit and I began disaasembly of the carbs. I got one float bowl off and pulled the float and valve, no problem. Pulled the main jet. Now what? I am following along in my Clymer and referencing the (94) Honda Manual, but should I just keep tugging and wiggling the main jet holder until it pops off? And what's up with the slow jet? I've got a pair of mini-channelocks that I tried to grip it with, but it does not turn. It looks like a smooth brass cylinder with a hole in the top.
I don't want to damage anything, but it's all gotta come apart!
hoganJr
thanks, I am good again...for nowGo back and re-read the carb overhaul part of Jim Martino's web site, he has an exhibit showing which parts come off and which stay.
http://www.jmartino.me/carb/carb3.htm
thank You ByronM, that's pretty much how I did it. One float was set at about 11mm and the other was even higher. That may be the biggest cause of my original problem!HoganJrYou would think there would be some step by step instruction to set the floats on these but I could never find any.
When I did my carbs I tilted the carb so that the tang on the float assembly contacted the needle assembly just enough to close the valve but not enough to press in on the spring on the needle assembly/ (this works a lot better with a helper)
Then I set the very top (highest point) of the float (the other side from the needle) 7.5mm to the carb body.
This is how I did mine, my bike seems to run alright but maybe some one else will comment.
I appreciate the congrats. This project was a real challenge for me.Congrats! Must feel good to get it back on the road.