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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know this subject has been covered several times, however I just wanted to bring this issue on the agenda once more.

Today I made a modification on the red connector (C57) over the right fan. I cut the black/white wire into two parts and added a relay there.
I took the positive voltage from 55A fuse at the battery compartment and the ground from the connector over dipstick.

The connections of the relay are as follows;
85: ground
86: +12v from black/white wire coming from C57
30: +12v from 55A fuse (fused 15A)
87: +12v to black/white wire going to ignition coils and ECU

I also added a 15A fuse at the positive side located under the 55A fuse.

After this one hour modification, the symptom "bike starts after releasing button" disappeared. Bike starts as it is supposed to do without thinking whether it will start or not as in previous condition.

And another benefit of this modification is that you may crank the bike without starting, if you like, by removing the 15A fuse added under 55A fuse. If I am not mistaken some models may crank when the kill switch is off. But this may mislead the person to think there is a problem.

With this modification you will have this cranking ability when you need and the kill switch will operate normally.
 

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I wondered about doing something like that, but just never got around to doing it.
I instead, just installed an AGM battery and forgot about "the problem".

What I had envisioned was to run a wire straight from the battery to the ECU through a Toggle Switch. I called it my "Emergency Get the hell home" modification... no key required, no wondering about what switch is not making, brakes, side-stand, clutch lever, etc...

You just earned 5 stars and a place in the Forum Index.

Thank you.
 

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I have used the same relay on some John Deere lawn mowers that click,click and then start,I been trying to figure where I could put on on the 1500.Thanks
I have 10 wired relays,so mine is going to get one now.
Have any pictures of the wire location?
Could the relay be put into the circuit somewhere around the starter selonoid?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I have used the same relay on some John Deere lawn mowers that click,click and then start,I been trying to figure where I could put on on the 1500.Thanks
I have 10 wired relays,so mine is going to get one now.
Have any pictures of the wire location?
Could the relay be put into the circuit somewhere around the starter selonoid?

Ok. I will add some pictures tomorrow. Here in Turkey we have 10 hour time difference with USA.

You may add the relay anywhere as long as you protect the pins. I preferred to locate it under the right glove box, next to the air selenoids.

And the 15A fuse under 55A dogbone fuse. Don't forget this, it is a "must" for safety.

The most beautiful aspect of this modification is that the engine starts running smoothly, not like a sudden and loud "vroom"; and with the lowest current demand as well. Those are good inputs for the lifetime of the parts I think.

You will feel the difference immediately.
 

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Why add additional circuits when it can be done like this.......??

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Engine will not start until the starter switch is released

Those who have GL1500's that won't start until releasing the start button can go into the right front side fairing and clean the C54 connector that feeds the pulse coils.

It carries both the 12 volt D C and the ground return.

Road dirt and condensation gets to it because it isn't waterproof. BTDT with our '96, and it fixed the problem, starts perfectly every time without having to release the button to fire.

The dirt/condensation layer bleeds enough of the 12 vdc coming to the coils off so that their firing voltage is below start levels.

The button release does provide a momentary spike that fires the bike up.

Those of you willing to go after this will be pleasantly surprised at the results.

See pages 3-0 and 12-3 in the Honda Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Why add additional circuits when it can be done like this.......??

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Engine will not start until the starter switch is released

Those who have GL1500's that won't start until releasing the start button can go into the right front side fairing and clean the C54 connector that feeds the pulse coils.

It carries both the 12 volt D C and the ground return.

Road dirt and condensation gets to it because it isn't waterproof. BTDT with our '96, and it fixed the problem, starts perfectly every time without having to release the button to fire.

The dirt/condensation layer bleeds enough of the 12 vdc coming to the coils off so that their firing voltage is below start levels.

The button release does provide a momentary spike that fires the bike up.

Those of you willing to go after this will be pleasantly surprised at the results.

See pages 3-0 and 12-3 in the Honda Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.
Yes, it may solve some of the problems, if it is the corroded pins of that connector.

Actually there are many connectors and a wire harness you may have to deal with. With this modification we don't have to deal with them, instead we are decreasing the load demand over these parts.

And if it is the corroded or weakened wire in the harness, it would be highly difficult to find and replace I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here are some pictures of the modification.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I want to share a video of the result.
By the way maybe you have noticed I have changed the cruise control on and set lights to green by painting the lens in the dash panel.

 

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I noticed my 5 year old A.G.M. battery was starting to make hard starting, and the release start button before it would start. Then I noticed that the positive cable on the battery moved sideways when I touched it. A quick polishing of the cable ends, and a good tightening solved all the problems.
gumbyred
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I noticed my 5 year old A.G.M. battery was starting to make hard starting, and the release start button before it would start. Then I noticed that the positive cable on the battery moved sideways when I touched it. A quick polishing of the cable ends, and a good tightening solved all the problems.
gumbyred
Loose or corroded contact means resistance and unwanted voltage drop.
In my opinion everybody should know how to do a voltage drop test. Voltage drop is one of the major problems of old bikes and vehicles. When we use the regular methods given in the service manuals we may be misleaded easily when troubleshooting.
 

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Yes, a simple voltage drop test from the Battery Positive post to the Starter Terminal post, should hopefully be less than a volt drop, closer to 1/2 volt would be better. Zero Volt drop would be best, but that is impossible.

that would include all connections, relay contacts, etc...

if excessive, then divide and conquer, battery post to the middle, "too much"? trouble in between the two meter leads.
 

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Let me say this about this relay install that I just completed. First off Erdeniz is a real gentleman. He helped me from start to finish with everything from getting the relay to how to wire it in so that it would work correctly and boy does it. I use to think that with my AGM battery, the bike started much better than it use to. Now with this relay install, it starts even faster than before. I just touch the starter button and within milie seconds the bike fires right off. If it turns over more than 2 or 3 times before starting it's a lot. Even with a low battery you can get it to start with very few revolutions. No more holding the starter button then releasing it so it starts, this is instantaneous starting.

If you have an hour or two to spare someday and you want your 1500 to start warm or cold much faster than it use to, you got to try this simple install. It really does work that good and for about 10 dollars, you can't beat it. Look luck to all of you that try this thing.
 

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Erdeniz,

You could also make this a security system by adding a switch in series with the fuse. Hide the switch anyplace and when open .......no start. DPDT switch and a light/LED to let you know the switch is open or "alarm set".
 

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Hi Erdeniz:

Let me say that I really love your job, you always come up with brilliant solutions.

Before I started to make this change, went back to re-read all post in this thread and …

After taking the tupperware off and finding the C57 connector(as per your post), I found it's a tight and hard working space

Also took into consideration the DBohrer comment, road dirt, condensation, age, (page #3-0 and #12-3 of Electrical Troublesooting Manual), I added/mixed up both ideas and came up with this:


I decide that there is a better location (for myself) and easier place to work at C54 low side where +B will be going direct to coils; yes more tupperware to remove, but a lot more free space, so that is where I’m working right now, probably it’ll be finish by tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Hi Erdeniz:

Let me say that I really love your job, you always come up with brilliant solutions.

Before I started to make this change, went back to re-read all post in this thread and …

After taking the tupperware off and finding the C57 connector(as per your post), I found it's a tight and hard working space

Also took into consideration the DBohrer comment, road dirt, condensation, age, (page #3-0 and #12-3 of Electrical Troublesooting Manual), I added/mixed up both ideas and came up with this:


I decide that there is a better location (for myself) and easier place to work at C54 low side where +B will be going direct to coils; yes more tupperware to remove, but a lot more free space, so that is where I’m working right now, probably it’ll be finish by tomorrow.
Gipsy, since I don't know the details of your project, I am not sure about any side effects will occur or not.

In my solution I tried to keep the original configuration as much as possible, and fed the input voltage of the ECU and the coils at the same time, because I didn't know the algorithm and the circuit design inside.

So good luck and share the results please.
 

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The issue is drop of voltage (power) to the ignition coils (not to the ECM).

It is not necessary to provide direct battery voltage to the ECM. Voltage (power) from the normal configured circuit to the ECM is just fine.

Doing the mod at the C54 as compared to the C57 will accomplish the same good results....!!
 
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