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What are the steps to adjust the steering head nut torque? What has to come off in order to get there? Anyone familiar with this?

Thanks!

Tom
 

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:waving:Remove the seat,top shelter,(radio), then the handlebars and the very top piece of the clamp. This is what I didn't know! The top fork clamps need to be loosened, cause the stuff you need to get to is under that piece. Be careful when you re-assemble everything. I managed to smash my return throttle cable when I torqued down the cap! There is a washer that has tabs on it, and when you bend the tabs out of the way, they break, so get another locking tab washer. I noticed my adjusting nut was quite loose, and it did alot to improve the steering.(trike) I also added a Superbrace, another improvement! After about 2 thousand miles, the steering is loose again, so looks like a set of "All Balls" bearings next time. Good wrenching! jimsjinx:action:
 

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That's what I was thinking but needed to be sure. I'm assuming the handlebar clamp can be loosened and the bars just moved out of the way?? What about the ignition switch, is it connected to the top piece?
The torque must be off on mine as I have about 1/8th inch front to back play at the front wheel and I have a developed a wobble between 25 and 35 mph.
 

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http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1500steering.htm

The beginning and ending steps are outside of what you want to do, so just start with the picture of the tape measure and follow the next 13 or 14 steps. You'll need to buy, borrow or make a special spanner if your want to actually torque the bearings. I made one in about an hour out of 1 1/2 inch galvanized water pipe similar to the one in the picture. It doesn't have to be pretty or tough - the torque value is only about 15 lbs. You can find instructions on how to make one on the Internet or let me know and I'll send them to you via email.

You can do it without removing the shelter, radio or seat - just use a 2x4 across the shelter and lay the handle bars on it.
 

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The whole bearing replacement is here ( http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1500steering.htm )

If you're re torquing, here's some great text from Mike Nixon (again): http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/shucking.html

You can really cheat on the dissassembly to retorque (only) the head bearings.
Remove list looks like:
- key-surround plate
- two tube fillers
- snap-on handlebar mount-clamp cover
- pop the clutch and brake hoses outta their mounts at the top of the tree
- pull the throttle cables outta their mounts on the back of the handlebar
- The complete Handlebars (remove at their clamps and laid onto the radio cover wih a little finesse and soft padding) -- it'll help if you find some datum to measure the bar mounting prior to removing them - like turn full left-lock and measure the Mastercy,inder's distance from the windshield or similar

---- you need to figure out what to do with your turn signal auto-cancel unit (you need to pull it if you're using a socket-type wrench, or you can thread the tree-top and nuts and stuff up the harness if you've got an open-sided wrench; things'll get tight, but you'll save 30+-minutes)
- Upper tripple-tree (loosen the fork-tube clamps and pull the center nut to remove - a gear puller can get the tree-top off the tubes if it's sticky)

Then you're at the upper nut that's held by the tabbed retaining washer. release the retaining tabs - the upper nut is only finger tight, so it'll come right off (if it's tight, then chanses are that either the retainer allowed the nuts to move, or someone else has been in before you -- change the bearings) - pull the retaining washer --- The steering nut thatyou're at nowis the one you're looking to torque, and holds the steering stem into the bike...

This all sounds awful, but if you do all this with the front tire on the ground, then loosen the Steering head nut and slowly lift the bike -- you can usually get the lower bearing to "show" so it can be cleaned and re-lubed without having to pull anything more than what's listed here. (shop time will be about 2-hrs less than the book time for the re-packing). Repacking the upper bearing is just as crappy if you leave the cancel unit in the tree, but it too can be done.



On reassembly, remember to torque the most-forward side of thehandlebar mounting clamps first.

The over-torque proceedure in Mike Nixon's link above has saved a few bikes from the full bearing replacement, BUT not all of em. (and you'll be several hours into and out of the work before you know if you've made any difference in the ride quality)..





:blackstuff:
 

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Thanks! Guys. That should cover it. Now for a locking washer.
 
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