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Discussion Starter #1
I have maintenance due on my thermostat.
Parts purchased just waiting for a long warm day.
Is there a "How to do" section with pictures changing said item?
Thanks
 

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OMG, if it's working leave it alone, that's a major job. I have never seen a Honda thermostat stick closed so even if it fails it won't hurt anything.
 

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The thermostat housing cracked on my `98 S.E. so I replaced the thermostat at the same time as the housing. I don`t know what caused caused the crack yet. Not a job for the faint of heart. If its not leaking, leave it alone.
gumbyred
 

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My 94 had the thermostat housing leak years ago, so PO tore it down and replaced other things too.
Maintenance items you might have to go back in for, like the vac line mess under the carbs, was done then
 

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Yeah if yo are going in there replace everything that you touch that can wear out..all rubber stuff, cables?, clean/rebuild the carbs, check wire connections, etc, etc, or leave it alone..
 

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Some of the book scheduled maintenance was based on best guess- how many decades ago?? or using honda cages schedule

Some things they dont stress enough IMO, and others are not an Earth based reality or concern
Many things deserve more attention than book suggest, issues several million miles in use revealed
 

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Why are you replacing it ? If nothing is leaking and it doesn't overheat I would suggest don't do anything ! I just spent alot of time and money on my 92 but everything is new but I had to take it to the shop ! Everytime I repaired one leak another would turn up . Got very frustrating . Couldn't afford a newer GW but it would have been a smarter way to go in the long run !

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/members/92686-azwngr-albums-1992-cooling-system.html
 

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agree with the other comments - it is a bear of a job to replace the thermostat - ask me how I know!!! If it ain't broke, I suggest leaving it alone!!!
 

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I agree- a thermostat is not a 'service' item until it fails or shows signs of trouble.
Where did the OP go? I know it was only yesterday...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am not online very often, hence my scarcity.

The thermostat gauge has begun to fluctuate while highway riding at steady speed, this tells me it is going out. Fluctuations are not due to the variable ambient temperatures. It is not due to poor electrical connections, the needle is never way left (open) or right (shorted).

The coolant level is up in both radiator and reserve tank. It is clear (not dirty) and flowing strong. At times the temperature gauge needle is nowhere near where it should be, usually at the upper 3/4 of gauge. During fluctuations it will drop to the lower 1/3. Of my past cars this means the thermostat is sticking or stuck open.

I seen your posted photos and yes, it does look like a tedious job. It is obvious I will be scheduling other maintenances since this area will be opened up that deep.

For what I have read about the "Stealerships", they will not work on 10+ older motorcycles. Way to many excuses to list.

If you love what you ride, you take care of it yourself. You know what was done and needed items not missed.

Thank you all for your time, information and photos.
 

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Then there is nothing wrong with your thermostat, you have a problem with the gauge.
 

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How OLD is the coolant? More than 2 years dump that stuff now. Honda cage approved coolant with NO SILICONE is ok to use.

Have you ckd the running coolant temp inside rad cap opening- with a metal probe thermometer or a laser temp gauge?

As the bike sits at idle you will quickly know if its getting hot.
My 94 temp runs near 3/4 just cruising down the freeway and gets past 3/4 before the fans kick on- like if stuck in traffic.
Some throttle (2000 rpm) to spin the water pump helps then.

Normal engine operating range per the book is anywhere inside the lines,
and hot isnt actual HOT until it nearly pegs the gauge!
Kind of like E on the gas is not relative to current amount remaining

When you say res bottle full, is it at correct level or is it high?
The rubber hose with grommet that goes into top of res bottle likes to develop a small split- allowing coolant out and preventing suction/recovery action back to rad when the engine cools
Bottle stays over-full while rad slowly loses some with each ride.

Start with measured temps and diagnose from there

Note! everyone with 1500 or earlier should inspect that hose system from rads to bottle, Mother has the grommet-hose for under $10
Honda used same part on all water-cooled 2 and 3 wheelers for 30+ years!
 

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Everytime I repaired one leak another would turn up . Got very frustrating .

I can sure understand this sentiment. I "upgraded" from an 88 to a 99 and have had 10 times more issues on the 99 that I ever even considered on the 88!
 

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Guess I got the rare one. It's been occasionally spitting out of the overflow. Pic is clear on mine and shows where it's been dragging. On a preview it looks fuzzy. If it is for you guys, well, you'll just have to take my word for it. This is on a 1200 which is the same part as a 1500, but from the sounds of things much less swearing.

Pulled it out until I find one. I was surprised at how quickly the fan came on without the thermostat in there.
 

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Guess I got the rare one. It's been occasionally spitting out of the overflow. Pic is clear on mine and shows where it's been dragging. On a preview it looks fuzzy. If it is for you guys, well, you'll just have to take my word for it. This is on a 1200 which is the same part as a 1500, but from the sounds of things much less swearing.

Pulled it out until I find one. I was surprised at how quickly the fan came on without the thermostat in there.
Is that in boiling water or is it stuck open?
 

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It's just out of the boiling water. The marks on it make me think it was sticking. Running it without one has yielded no boil overs. It has been cold since that night, so even though I think that is it, time will tell. I will replace it because it's easy on mine.
 
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