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Discussion Starter #21
That's an indication of an issue with the printed circuit board. It was quite common on the 1996 Gold Wing's but could have also carried over to some 1997 year bikes. Several folks removed and thoroughly cleaned the schelack (varnish) from the circuit boards then resealed them again to resolve the issue.

Disconnecting and reconnecting batteries normally never creates issues with the clock on the GL1500 (except the time needs to be reset).

PS: Chris, Its important to provide as much detail as possible when you are describing symptoms of issues.
Hi DBohrer

Yes. I had read about this a little while back that's why I decided to take the unit apart again to clean all the contacts and apply electrical switch cleaner which didn't do any good. I then took it apart once more and cleaned the little rubber contact strips (don't know what these are called?) that fit down the sides between the printed circuit board and the LCD screen, and that is when I actually thought I'd located the problem? I was wrong I'm afraid. I did post my findings about this.

I thought I had provided as much detail when describing the symptoms. Other symptoms developed whilst I was working on the unit, which again I thought I'd described? I'm obviously not too good at this!

I'll add a bit more detail now. I have taken a bit of a break from this for a couple of days as I was getting nowhere and more, and more fed up. Whilst the dash / meter assembly was off the bike I took some fine wire wool and cleaned as many of the contacts on the connections as possible. Also, I gave them a good soaking in electrical switch cleaner. More for 'piece of mind' really.

Anyway, this morning, whilst I was trying to sort another minor problem with the thread on the speedo drive nut, I noticed the wiring connection C16 (10 pin - white) wasn't 'mating' properly. This always makes me a little suspicious! My first thought was that there may be a foreign body in there preventing proper contact, but no! I think after 20 plus years, and not knowing the full history of the bike, this has probably warped following connection and disconnection? Just my opinion of course.

Firstly, I turned the ignition key and sure enough the problem I have been referring to still exists with the clock running fast and the 'bulb test' sequence also running far too quickly. I then pushed the two parts of this connection together, and whilst holding it tight with my fingers, I turned the ignition key, and sure enough the issue disappeared. I have checked the wiring and the connector pins / sockets but cannot find any obvious fault, even though this could be the problem?

Ideally this connector needs to be replaced I suppose but just for now I have wrapped some small cable ties around both ends and pulled it tight together. Maybe I'll be lucky?

Hopefully I have given enough detail now? :smile2::|
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Well fellow 'Wingers I have to say I am now really fed up and don't know what else to try. I really thought I had located the problem with the C16 not mating properly, but apparently not. I didn't do any further work on my bike yesterday but, just for 'piece of mind', thought I'd switch the ignition on just to ensure the LCD was maintaining time and that the 'bulb check' sequence was working, and can confirm all was well.

However, after spending quite some time carefully reassembling the bike today, have discovered the problem has returned (if it ever actually went away). If I had hair I would now be pulling it out. :sadguy:

Other than switching the ignition on a few times yesterday I haven't done anything else to the bike. I am at a complete loss now. Anyone have any further ideas please??:frown2: :surprise:
 

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Chris,
It really is starting to sound like the issue is in the LCD itself as Dbohrer said earlier. Have you been in contact with them about the issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Chris,
It really is starting to sound like the issue is in the LCD itself as Dbohrer said earlier. Have you been in contact with them about the issue?
Hi redwing 52. Yes I have indeed been in touch with Tanin Autoelectronix and they tend to think that the LCD itself isn't faulty but could potentially be the cluster itself.

I have just been giving this some considerable thought and going over in my mind what could cause this issue. Unfortunately, the LCD screen wasn't legible prior to replacing it, and I never really noticed the other issue with the 'bulb test' sequence, so am unable to state if this fault was present then.

One thing that I have been considering is that whilst the speedo cluster was stripped down I took the opportunity to change all the bulbs to LED's, as detailed in another post on this website. Some of these LED's required a resistor being installed in parallel to enable them to work properly. Two of these were the 'cruise set' and the 'cruise on' bulbs.

Now, as these are controlled by the LCD itself, I was just considering whether or not these resistors may in fact be the culprits? I may be clutching at straws here but I thought I'd ask before I take it all apart and maybe remove them altogether. :|
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I would not change the Cruise ON, and the Cruise Set to LED,


I think that is a bad idea. and they have a colored film over them anyway, so why bother?
Thats fair comment thinking about it now in hindsight. I just thought I'd change them all at the time whilst I was awaiting delivery of the LCD screen from USA. I will say the only bulbs that had coloured sheaths over them were the main blue illumination ones.

I think what I may do is remove the resistors and put the original bulbs back in for the 'cruise set' and 'cruise on' warning lights and see what happens. Just a thought really and nothing to lose!
 

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If you are going to put them back in, get some new ones, the originals are a few years old now, and the filaments "get tired" from use.


The Cruise ON, is never OFF on my bike, so it is very long in the tooth, but still as bright as ever at 114,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Just an update. I have today unsoldered and removed the resistors from the 'cruise on' and 'cruise set' warning lights and replaced the LED's with the original bulbs, but still no joy. Whilst I was doing this I checked the Yellow/Red power supply from the backup fuse, both the Green and Green/Black negative wires using my multimeter and all appears to be fine with these. I also removed and cleaned ground connection (G100) above dipstick and confirm this is also fine.

I am going to take the dash / meter assembly out just one more time so if anyone has any further advice regarding this it would be greatly appreciated?

:praying:
 

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Hi redwing 52. Yes I have indeed been in touch with Tanin Autoelectronix and they tend to think that the LCD itself isn't faulty but could potentially be the cluster itself.
I would tend to agree with Tanin, the LCD screen is just that, a Display. There is no time keeping function in the screen, it only displays what is coming from the display driver circuits in the instrument cluster.

The display drivers get data from several places, primarily the radio, The air pressure check, and yes, a clock chip. The trick will be finding the clock chip in the instrument cluster and making sure all is good around it. (corrosion, dirt etc.)
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Right. I have again removed and disassembled the dash / meter and intend to give this a another good clean as described here:

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/10-reference-faq-forum/360759-fixing-gl1500-lcd-fast-slow-clock-problems-2.html

Previously I used electrical switch cleaner but I have ordered some isopropol alcohol off Ebay and will try this. Just one question. What is the best sealer to use once this is done?

ADDENDUM
I have just taken the printed circuit board off the back of the LCD unit and can confirm there isn't any evidence of discolouration or shellac covering the board itself, and it certainly doesn't appear or feel 'sticky'??
 

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Discussion Starter #32
you want the highest percent IsoPropol you can get, 99% is what I look for, to clean electronics.


you definitely do not want to add water, it won't dry out.
Hi AZgl1800. I have ordered the following of Ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Isopropyl-Alcohol-Isopropanol-99-9-Pure-FREE-Shipping-Various-Sizes-Available/121467503384?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=420406888828&_trksid=p2057872.m2748.l2649

What I cannot get 'my head around' is why cleaning the contacts on the PCB will make any difference whatsoever? Unless there is a 'track' between two points, which cleaning should generally remove, it shouldn't really make any difference to it's operation as they are not making contact with anything other than the integral components.

Some time ago I had a Samsung TV that wouldn't work properly unless an hair dryer was first used on it to warm the circuitry. Following examination faulty capacitors proved to be the culprit. I'm just wondering if the caps on this PCB may be failing as the LCD screen does tend to show similar signs? Particularly as others have suggested running an hair dryer around the dash / meter assembly in previous posts.

They shouldn't be too expensive I may just replace them now as a matter of course and see what happens?
 

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Hi AZgl1800. I have ordered the following of Ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Isopropyl-Alcohol-Isopropanol-99-9-Pure-FREE-Shipping-Various-Sizes-Available/121467503384?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=420406888828&_trksid=p2057872.m2748.l2649

What I cannot get 'my head around' is why cleaning the contacts on the PCB will make any difference whatsoever? Unless there is a 'track' between two points, which cleaning should generally remove, it shouldn't really make any difference to it's operation as they are not making contact with anything other than the integral components.

Some time ago I had a Samsung TV that wouldn't work properly unless an hair dryer was first used on it to warm the circuitry. Following examination faulty capacitors proved to be the culprit. I'm just wondering if the caps on this PCB may be failing as the LCD screen does tend to show similar signs? Particularly as others have suggested running an hair dryer around the dash / meter assembly in previous posts.

They shouldn't be too expensive I may just replace them now as a matter of course and see what happens?
I had a welder that was acting up, found out if I blew air on a certain spot the PCB it would work. Took it out and cleaned it and it worked for a long time, until the transformer went bad.
 

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I have had many experiences of this kind of issues caused by the soldering residue while working on electronic circuits.
Since the clearances between the pins are very small and the components are very voltage sensitive, a small amount of residue can act like a capacitor or a resistor in an electronic circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I have had many experiences of this kind of issues caused by the soldering residue while working on electronic circuits.
Since the clearances between the pins are very small and the components are very voltage sensitive, a small amount of residue can act like a capacitor or a resistor in an electronic circuit.
Yes. I can fully understand what you're saying, but surely that only applies if there is residual shellac, or perhaps soldering flux upon the surface of the PCB. There isn't any obvious signs of this, nor does it feel sticky in any way.

As a matter of course I will give this a clean, but I have also ordered replacement capacitors, so will swap these over also whilst the unit is dismantled. I feel I have nothing to lose now, and hopefully won't be doing this again in the foreseeable future

:|:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #37

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Discussion Starter #39
Just an update. Following advice posted on here I once again removed the meter/dash assembly, stripped down the LCD, removed the PCB board and gave it a thorough clean with several applications of isopropyl alcohol (99.9%) as strongly advised. I will say that I couldn't detect the presence of any shellac or similar substance whilst cleaning the PCB.

I also took the opportunity of changing the capacitors and once again really thought I'd found the solution? I was extremely meticulous when undertaking this procedure, going through each step carefully and documenting everything I did. Although changing the capacitors wasn't successful in this instance I have uploaded an attachment showing this in case anyone else needs to give it a try!

Once I completed the procedure I reconnected it back on to the bike and everything worked perfectly when I switched the ignition on. This was a couple of days ago. I decided not to re-assemble the bike in case of further issues and, except for checking this by switching on the ignition occasionally over the past couple of days, have done nothing to the bike whatsoever.

This morning I thought lets put it all back together but again the exact same problem as reoccurred. I suppose all I can do now is see if I can find a good second hand cluster assembly to see if that works?

Obviously I am more than disappointed :|:frown2:
 

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This morning I thought lets put it all back together but again the exact same problem as reoccurred. I suppose all I can do now is see if I can find a good second hand cluster assembly to see if that works?
Did the problem reoccur before or after you put it back together? Could be a clue there.
 
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