Hi DBohrerThat's an indication of an issue with the printed circuit board. It was quite common on the 1996 Gold Wing's but could have also carried over to some 1997 year bikes. Several folks removed and thoroughly cleaned the schelack (varnish) from the circuit boards then resealed them again to resolve the issue.
Disconnecting and reconnecting batteries normally never creates issues with the clock on the GL1500 (except the time needs to be reset).
PS: Chris, Its important to provide as much detail as possible when you are describing symptoms of issues.
Yes. I had read about this a little while back that's why I decided to take the unit apart again to clean all the contacts and apply electrical switch cleaner which didn't do any good. I then took it apart once more and cleaned the little rubber contact strips (don't know what these are called?) that fit down the sides between the printed circuit board and the LCD screen, and that is when I actually thought I'd located the problem? I was wrong I'm afraid. I did post my findings about this.
I thought I had provided as much detail when describing the symptoms. Other symptoms developed whilst I was working on the unit, which again I thought I'd described? I'm obviously not too good at this!
I'll add a bit more detail now. I have taken a bit of a break from this for a couple of days as I was getting nowhere and more, and more fed up. Whilst the dash / meter assembly was off the bike I took some fine wire wool and cleaned as many of the contacts on the connections as possible. Also, I gave them a good soaking in electrical switch cleaner. More for 'piece of mind' really.
Anyway, this morning, whilst I was trying to sort another minor problem with the thread on the speedo drive nut, I noticed the wiring connection C16 (10 pin - white) wasn't 'mating' properly. This always makes me a little suspicious! My first thought was that there may be a foreign body in there preventing proper contact, but no! I think after 20 plus years, and not knowing the full history of the bike, this has probably warped following connection and disconnection? Just my opinion of course.
Firstly, I turned the ignition key and sure enough the problem I have been referring to still exists with the clock running fast and the 'bulb test' sequence also running far too quickly. I then pushed the two parts of this connection together, and whilst holding it tight with my fingers, I turned the ignition key, and sure enough the issue disappeared. I have checked the wiring and the connector pins / sockets but cannot find any obvious fault, even though this could be the problem?
Ideally this connector needs to be replaced I suppose but just for now I have wrapped some small cable ties around both ends and pulled it tight together. Maybe I'll be lucky?
Hopefully I have given enough detail now? :smile2::|