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Discussion Starter #41
Did the problem reoccur before or after you put it back together? Could be a clue there.
Hi Dave. I seem to recall mentioning this somewhere in another post, but I cannot locate it. I think it was around the same time I thought I had a problem with the suspension switches? It seems to me that all is well with the unit when first reinstalled or connected, but when it's left for a couple of days the problem recurs. Someone suggested disconnecting the battery for short time and then reconnecting, but that doesn't do anything. It gives the impression that the memory function is failing maybe?

This was why I decided to change the capacitors. I've just been looking at an image on the website and there is quite a large capacitor (at least I think that is what it is) lying flat on the PCB. I was just considering whether or not this may be something to do with the memory as there isn't an integral backup battery fitted?
 

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No backup battery, backup power comes from the 5 amp "Backup" fuse which runs the clock and keeps the memory settings in the stereo.
 

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Hi Dave. I seem to recall mentioning this somewhere in another post, but I cannot locate it. I think it was around the same time I thought I had a problem with the suspension switches? It seems to me that all is well with the unit when first reinstalled or connected, but when it's left for a couple of days the problem recurs.



I was asking specifically about this last time, did it fail before or after you put it back together? Could be something gets stressed when you button it up or a screw touching a wire or a wire being pinched.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
No backup battery, backup power comes from the 5 amp "Backup" fuse which runs the clock and keeps the memory settings in the stereo.
Yes. I fully understand about the 'backup' fuse/power from the 5 amp fuse. What I cannot get 'my head around', is why it should work fine for 24 - 48 hours for example and then the problem 'rears it's ugly head' yet again. I was just considering that maybe the feed from the 'backup fuse' may go to a capacitor on the PCB which, after a short time of operation fails, thus resulting in the erratic time and the 'bulb test' fault? This, in my mind, would explain why the memory function is failing as the capacitor has broken down thus causing a break in the circuit?

Capacitors do operate similarly to 'backup batteries' insomuch as they store and release power as and when required. I am 'clutching at straws' here really!

I was also thinking if there is any way to test this off the bike? The radio doesn't need to be connected as long as I can get the time and 'bulb test' function to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I was asking specifically about this last time, did it fail before or after you put it back together? Could be something gets stressed when you button it up or a screw touching a wire or a wire being pinched.
Dave. I just cannot answer that question. At the moment I have the dash/meter assembly connected to the wiring (C16 & C91) with the unit just resting upon the ignition switch. It has been like this for a couple of days. The speedo cable is not connected, not as that should have anything to do with this, and it's not screwed into place so as far as I can tell none of the wiring is pinched in any way. The radio and suspension switches are disconnected for the time being. I have tried it with all connections, radio and suspension switches made, and that also doesn't make any difference whatsoever.

Don't know if this makes any sense?
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Right. Whilst we have reasonable weather over here in the UK I thought I'd have another quick look at this again before it gets too dark. I haven't touched the bike since this morning but, when I turned the key, all working again. What the hell is going on here?
 

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Just an update. Following advice posted on here I once again removed the meter/dash assembly, stripped down the LCD, removed the PCB board and gave it a thorough clean with several applications of isopropyl alcohol (99.9%) as strongly advised. I will say that I couldn't detect the presence of any shellac or similar substance whilst cleaning the PCB.

I also took the opportunity of changing the capacitors and once again really thought I'd found the solution? I was extremely meticulous when undertaking this procedure, going through each step carefully and documenting everything I did. Although changing the capacitors wasn't successful in this instance I have uploaded an attachment showing this in case anyone else needs to give it a try!

Once I completed the procedure I reconnected it back on to the bike and everything worked perfectly when I switched the ignition on. This was a couple of days ago. I decided not to re-assemble the bike in case of further issues and, except for checking this by switching on the ignition occasionally over the past couple of days, have done nothing to the bike whatsoever.

This morning I thought lets put it all back together but again the exact same problem as reoccurred. I suppose all I can do now is see if I can find a good second hand cluster assembly to see if that works?

Obviously I am more than disappointed :|:frown2:

I think your capacitor change may be part of the problem. See the voltage regulator data sheet at the link below. The standard circuit on page two shows 0.33 microfarad on the input side of the regulator and 0.1 microfarad on the output. This is 1000 times less than the value you have listed in your PDF. It makes me wonder if there wasn't a microfarad/nanofarad error.

The regulator input pin is on the left and output on the right with common in the center. If those 330 microfarad, 6.3 V capacitors are connected to the input side of the regulator you are likely frying the capacitors when you apply 12 volt battery power. There really isn't any reason not to use 25 V capacitors on the output side if they will fit.

I would definitely put a voltmeter on the input and output of the voltage regulator.

https://datasheet.octopart.com/HA17805-Hitachi-datasheet-108292.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I think your capacitor change may be part of the problem. See the voltage regulator data sheet at the link below. The standard circuit on page two shows 0.33 microfarad on the input side of the regulator and 0.1 microfarad on the output. This is 1000 times less than the value you have listed in your PDF. It makes me wonder if there wasn't a microfarad/nanofarad error.

The regulator input pin is on the left and output on the right with common in the center. If those 330 microfarad, 6.3 V capacitors are connected to the input side of the regulator you are likely frying the capacitors when you apply 12 volt battery power. There really isn't any reason not to use 25 V capacitors on the output side if they will fit.

I would definitely put a voltmeter on the input and output of the voltage regulator.

https://datasheet.octopart.com/HA17805-Hitachi-datasheet-108292.pdf
Hi Wes. Thank you for the information. All I can tell you is that I replaced the capacitors with exactly the same as I removed, so detailed this in the PDF attachment. I will have a look at this in more detail when I have a little more time
 

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Dave. I just cannot answer that question. At the moment I have the dash/meter assembly connected to the wiring (C16 & C91) with the unit just resting upon the ignition switch.


Looks to me like you answered the question you couldn't answer. I conclude you had not put it back together even though I'm not there to see for myself so forget my question.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Looks to me like you answered the question you couldn't answer. I conclude you had not put it back together even though I'm not there to see for myself so forget my question.
I see where you are coming from now Dave! I will forget what you asked. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
Morning all. Just another update.

Last evening and this morning I switched the ignition on and initially all was fine. I waited for a couple of hours, switched the ignition on once more, and sure enough the problem reoccurred. What I have discovered now is should I disconnect and immediately reconnect the white multiplug, (C66), everything appears to work fine again, for a short time at least. I have checked the pins and sockets as best as I can and cannot see any obvious faults.

I intend to leave the bike as it is for now, except for switching the ignition on from time to time until the problem reoccurs, as I'm sure it will? I will then disconnect and reconnect the C66 multiplug to see what happens and go from there!

Going back to one of my previous posts I did suggest that the C66 connector was a possible cause and put cable ties around this thinking there may be a faulty connection? The cable ties didn't cure the problem at that time.

The potential question then is going to be is the connector itself at fault or is there an underlying fault within the cluster itself? Maybe a faulty component that short circuits, or open circuits after a short time and works again once the power is terminated when the multiplug is disconnected? I just don't know at this stage.

I don't know if I can do this but I was thinking of posting videos of the dash working properly and when it shows the fault. The question is: Can videos be uploaded or not?
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I want to repeat my previous post once more.
Have you checked the C58 connector above the left fan?
There was a similar issue in the following link and the problem was the corroded connector.
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/663973-gl1500-dash-warning-lights.html
Hi Erdeniz

I was in fact thinking about this a little earlier but, after reading the post, decided not to check this for the time being as I have power to the LCD screen and all ancillaries. I haven't discounted this as a potential cause just yet, but with our inclement weather I'm unable to get outside to remove the fairing at the moment. I have just checked again and everything is working as it should, but I can guarantee within 24 - 48 hours the problem will return. I don't have the luxury of working in a garage so will have a look at this connector when I can.


 

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Discussion Starter #54
0:) A very kind fellow 'Winger contacted me today regarding a spare speedo cluster he has with a faulty LCD screen which he says I can have. I will have this, replace the faulty screen with the new one I fitted to mine, and see if that helps? I've just got to wait now until he can sort this for me. I think its worth giving it a try. I have nothing to lose now!

:praying:
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I'm not very good at this modern computer stuff but I've attempted to make a video of this issue and posted it on YouTube.

The first part of the video shows the LCD screen and dash / meter assembly working as it should. When switching on the ignition the 'bulb test' sequence functions normally and the 'cruise set' and 'cruise on' warning lights remain illuminated for a few seconds before extinguishing. This is how this should be working. The time remains correct also.

The second part of the video shows the developing fault with the LCD screen and dash / meter assembly after leaving it connected for just a few hours. When switching on the ignition the 'bulb test' sequence functions incorrectly and the 'cruise set' and 'cruise on' warning lights extinguish almost immediately, thus the fault has fully developed. The time has also become erratic and incorrect. This fault remains like this from here onwards. Sometimes, but not always, this issue can be temporarily cured by disconnecting the multiplugs at the rear of the dash / meter assembly, but again the fault 'rears it's ugly head' again after just a few hours.

This should give some idea of this annoying and ongoing problem myself, and perhaps others are experiencing?

Here is the link:

 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
Right everyone. Just another update. I have been discussing this problem with another fellow Winger in the UK, and following this decided to start over. I have reinstalled the original LCD (with 'bleed'), removed all the LED's and refitted the original standard bulbs.

I may be a little premature here but can say that so far everything seems to be working fine, with no obvious signs of this annoying and ongoing fault.

It appears that the problem could be with the LED installation itself, possibly with the resistors, in particular the one bridging the low fuel warning light? I, personally, have never liked bridging wiring in that way. Not to say it doesn't work. Perhaps the value of this resistor is incorrect, or just incompatible with the circuit in some way?

When I know more I'll post my findings.

:thumbsdown:
 

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I did the same LED installation on my '98. I didn't like the idea of the parallel resistor installations either but they worked okay except for the Fuel light. I didn't trust that it would come on when needed with that resistor bridging the LED.



And, the HI Beam LED was too bright. So, I removed the parallel resistor from the Fuel light and then reinstalled a standard 194 bulb. I am certain that the new bulb will last a very long time since it usually only comes on during the test cycle. I tested the Fuel light and it works as advertised.


I hot glued a small piece of card stock onto the top of the HI beam LED and the Cruise LED's. They were a bit too bright.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I did the same LED installation on my '98. I didn't like the idea of the parallel resistor installations either but they worked okay except for the Fuel light. I didn't trust that it would come on when needed with that resistor bridging the LED.



And, the HI Beam LED was too bright. So, I removed the parallel resistor from the Fuel light and then reinstalled a standard 194 bulb. I am certain that the new bulb will last a very long time since it usually only comes on during the test cycle. I tested the Fuel light and it works as advertised.


I hot glued a small piece of card stock onto the top of the HI beam LED and the Cruise LED's. They were a bit too bright.
Hi briese. You didn't experience the same issue as me then with the time running erratically and the bulb test function not working correctly? I did notice only yesterday that the low fuel warning lamp wasn't working. Another reason why I decided to take all the LED's out for the moment.

I may install LED's and just have normal bulbs for the low fuel, cruise on and cruise set and that will alleviate the need for resistors. I've just been looking for suitable new bulbs on Ebay in the UK but cannot find anything suitable at the moment

I do agree that the main beam is a little bright with LED, but I think I prefer this as the normal bulbs on mine tend to be very dull
 

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Hi briese. You didn't experience the same issue as me then with the time running erratically and the bulb test function not working correctly? I did notice only yesterday that the low fuel warning lamp wasn't working. Another reason why I decided to take all the LED's out for the moment.
No, I did not have any problems like you have had. Just the Fuel light that did not come on when it was supposed to. I took out the parallel resistor and reinstalled the 194 bulb .
I may install LED's and just have normal bulbs for the low fuel, cruise on and cruise set and that will alleviate the need for resistors. I've just been looking for suitable new bulbs on Ebay in the UK but cannot find anything suitable at the moment


I do agree that the main beam is a little bright with LED, but I think I prefer this as the normal bulbs on mine tend to be very dull
Believe me, you will see on a dark night that the main beam LED is way too bright. At first I didn't think it was but after riding through a mountain pass on a dark and stormy night, it bugged hell out of me. I had to put a diffuser over it as soon as I got home.
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
Another update. I have today spent a few hours working upon the meter/dash assembly once more. I have replaced most of the standard bulbs with LED's with the exception of the 'Cruise On', 'Cruise Set' and 'Low Fuel' warning lights.

At this stage everything works exactly as it should so, bearing in mind the ongoing problem I have been having, would suggest that the resistor bridging the low fuel circuit is incompatible in some way? I can confirm the resistor fitted is 470 Ohm 1/2 Watt. Maybe the value of the resistor is incorrect? I'm just not sure! Maybe someone could advise with this?

I really would have preferred to replace all the standard bulbs with LED's but, without a solution, think I'll just leave the bulbs in these three warning lights, for the foreseeable future at least.

I will also say that I agree with Briese that the Main Beam and Neutral warning lamps (fitted with LED's) tended to be a little too bright, so I removed the green and blue lenses from the front of the meter assembly, (they are just a push fit) and glued some diffusers, cut from the same milk carton used for the internal diffusers, on the inside of these and they work brilliantly. Just a suggestion for anyone else who has a similar issue?

It certainly looks like I am making progress and would like to thank all of you that helped and advised along the way.



:|

 
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