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Discussion Starter #61
Another update. I have today spent a few hours working upon the meter/dash assembly once more. I have replaced most of the standard bulbs with LED's with the exception of the 'Cruise On', 'Cruise Set' and 'Low Fuel' warning lights.

At this stage everything works exactly as it should so, bearing in mind the ongoing problem I have been having, would suggest that the resistor bridging the low fuel circuit is incompatible in some way? I can confirm the resistor fitted is 470 Ohm 1/2 Watt. Maybe the value of the resistor is incorrect? I'm just not sure! Maybe someone could advise with this?

I really would have preferred to replace all the standard bulbs with LED's but, without a solution, think I'll just leave the bulbs in these three warning lights, for the foreseeable future at least.

I will also say that I agree with Briese that the Main Beam and Neutral warning lamps (fitted with LED's) tended to be a little too bright, so I removed the green and blue lenses from the front of the meter assembly, (they are just a push fit) and glued some diffusers, cut from the same milk carton used for the internal diffusers, on the inside of these and they work brilliantly. Just a suggestion for anyone else who has a similar issue?

It certainly looks like I am making progress and would like to thank all of you that helped and advised along the way.

Well everyone. It looks as though I was premature with my post. Once again I thought I'd located the problem by removing the resistors and LED's as mentioned in my post. But no! After leaving the cluster connected for approximately 24 hours, I have just switched the ignition on to have what I thought would be a final check, and the issue is still there.

A fellow Winger in the UK is hopefully sending me another cluster. My next stage has to be fitting this and see what happens I think?

If anyone has any further ideas then please comment

:frown2::frown2:

 

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Well everyone. It looks as though I was premature with my post. Once again I thought I'd located the problem by removing the resistors and LED's as mentioned in my post. But no! After leaving the cluster connected for approximately 24 hours, I have just switched the ignition on to have what I thought would be a final check, and the issue is still there.

A fellow Winger in the UK is hopefully sending me another cluster. My next stage has to be fitting this and see what happens I think?

If anyone has any further ideas then please comment

:frown2::frown2:
Chris,
Maybe click on the link below and send off a private message. Refer him to your thread. If anyone has an answer he is one of the most likely.

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/201313-sierra-mc.html
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Discussion Starter #64 (Edited)
Hi all

Just a question regarding the problem that's niggling at the back of my mind?

I will be changing the LCD cluster assembly, including PCB as soon as a kind fellow Winger has posted this to me. In the meantime I have been thinking about this in more detail. If I wait for the issue to ' raise its ugly head' and I disconnect the multiplugs at the rear of the meter assembly, wait for a short amount of time and then reconnect the multiplugs, everything seems to work fine again for a few hours at least.

However, when the problem reoccurs, should I disconnect battery, wait an equivalent amount of time before reconnecting the problem remains. Surely, disconnecting the power source either at the multiplugs or at the battery should have exactly the same effect, shouldn't it? Even with a possible faulty cluster unit?

Am I thinking about this too much or completely missing something?
 

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Hi all

Just a question regarding the problem that's niggling at the back of my mind?

I will be changing the LCD cluster assembly, including PCB as soon as a kind fellow Winger has posted this to me. In the meantime I have been thinking about this in more detail. If I wait for the issue to ' raise its ugly head' and I disconnect the multiplugs at the rear of the meter assembly, wait for a short amount of time and then reconnect the multiplugs, everything seems to work fine again for a few hours at least.

However, when the problem reoccurs, should I disconnect battery, wait an equivalent amount of time before reconnecting the problem remains. Surely, disconnecting the power source either at the multiplugs or at the battery should have exactly the same effect, shouldn't it? Even with a possible faulty cluster unit?

Am I thinking about this too much or completely missing something?
I would think it would have the same effect. No thoughts come to mind as to why not.
 

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Hi all

Just a question regarding the problem that's niggling at the back of my mind?

I will be changing the LCD cluster assembly, including PCB as soon as a kind fellow Winger has posted this to me. In the meantime I have been thinking about this in more detail. If I wait for the issue to ' raise its ugly head' and I disconnect the multiplugs at the rear of the meter assembly, wait for a short amount of time and then reconnect the multiplugs, everything seems to work fine again for a few hours at least.

However, when the problem reoccurs, should I disconnect battery, wait an equivalent amount of time before reconnecting the problem remains. Surely, disconnecting the power source either at the multiplugs or at the battery should have exactly the same effect, shouldn't it? Even with a possible faulty cluster unit?

Am I thinking about this too much or completely missing something?
What if there were wires that have high resistance short in the harness that is before the plug. If you disconnect the plug you might eliminate the short temporarily. If you disconnect the battery you just take power away temporarily. I had a relay that worked like that a few times. Had an issue and unplug the relay, plug it back in and all was well until the next time the relay was activated. Then the issue returned until you unplugged the relay again. The relay had a short in the coil. Tha short was not good enough to pull the relay in. It was however good enough to hold the relay on once engaged.
 

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What if there were wires that have high resistance short in the harness that is before the plug. If you disconnect the plug you might eliminate the short temporarily. If you disconnect the battery you just take power away temporarily. I had a relay that worked like that a few times. Had an issue and unplug the relay, plug it back in and all was well until the next time the relay was activated. Then the issue returned until you unplugged the relay again. The relay had a short in the coil. Tha short was not good enough to pull the relay in. It was however good enough to hold the relay on once engaged.



I would pretty much rule that thought out, as the cluster current draw is so miniscule as to not to be considered...


it is in the very small milliAmp range.
If that, a voltage is applied to the segments to make the LCD segments go blank, or dark.
 

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Discussion Starter #69 (Edited)
Another update folks. I have today received, and fitted another cluster assembly, including the new LCD screen I purchased from Tanin Autoelectronix, but have not installed the LED's for the 'Low Fuel', 'Cruise On' or 'Cruise Set' warning lamps. I will wait now and see if the fault develops now over the next 24 to 48 hours or so? Fingers crossed !!!


ADDENDUM

Further to my previous post I am very pleased to confirm that the aforementioned problem hasn't recurred. I have also reinstalled the 'Low Fuel', 'Cruise On' and 'Cruise Set' LED's including resistors, and these seem to working as they should.

I think I can now confidently say that the problem was in fact a fault with the PCB within the cluster itself. If I can discover exactly what the fault is I will post my findings. In the meantime many thanks again to all who have helped along the way


:applause:
 

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I have the same problem . Time changes at 10 sec. per minute thats 6 minutes per minute. after 50 miles it starts correct time. I wonder is there a battery that keeps time when bike is off?
 

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I have the same problem . Time changes at 10 sec. per minute thats 6 minutes per minute. after 50 miles it starts correct time. I wonder is there a battery that keeps time when bike is off?
Yes the # 13 backup fuse located in the relay box. It gets power (even when the ignition switch is off) and it powers the memory for the clock, radio presets, and CB channel.

However, you might have a "printed circuit board" issue.
 

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Yes the # 13 backup fuse located in the relay box. It gets power (even when the ignition switch is off) and it powers the memory for the clock, radio presets, and CB channel.

However, you might have a "printed circuit board" issue.
Mine does that, and it seems to be worse on high humid days. The clock will not only change, but run fast. But on dry days, it runs normally. In my case, I think my digital display might be going bonkers.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #73
I have the same problem . Time changes at 10 sec. per minute thats 6 minutes per minute. after 50 miles it starts correct time. I wonder is there a battery that keeps time when bike is off?
No RichGL1500S. The power for the memory is taken form the 'Backup Fuse', (number 13 if I recall correctly?), 5 amp found within the relay box. There isn't a separate integral battery for this. Start by checking this fuse and go from there.

There are many posts regarding this issue which seem to plague certain GL1500's, together with suggested remedies, which seemed to have rectified this issue in some cases! I tried most, if not all of them but, in my case, they didn't work for me. A replacement printed circuit board, from a 1988 model in my case, sorted the problems in the end.
 

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No RichGL1500S. The power for the memory is taken form the 'Backup Fuse', (number 13 if I recall correctly?), 5 amp found within the relay box. There isn't a separate integral battery for this. Start by checking this fuse and go from there.

There are many posts regarding this issue which seem to plague certain GL1500's, together with suggested remedies, which seemed to have rectified this issue in some cases! I tried most, if not all of them but, in my case, they didn't work for me. A replacement printed circuit board, from a 1988 model in my case, sorted the problems in the end.
I won an alarm clock once for a safety prize at work. If you unplugged it and plugged it back in, or if the electricity would go out momentarily it would run backwards. Had a good excuse if I was late for work though. They gave me the clock. :)
 

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No RichGL1500S. The power for the memory is taken form the 'Backup Fuse', (number 13 if I recall correctly?), 5 amp found within the relay box. There isn't a separate integral battery for this. Start by checking this fuse and go from there.

There are many posts regarding this issue which seem to plague certain GL1500's, together with suggested remedies, which seemed to have rectified this issue in some cases! I tried most, if not all of them but, in my case, they didn't work for me. A replacement printed circuit board, from a 1988 model in my case, sorted the problems in the end.

The printed circuit board issues was mainly with the 1996 year and possibly a few of the early produced 1997 year bikes. Not surprised to hear the 1988 corrected your issues....!!

Psst: Chris301up, for the 1988 - 1992 the "backup" fuse is # 9 (not in the relay box).....!! !993 -2000 is # 13 in the relay box.....!!
 

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I have the same problem . Time changes at 10 sec. per minute thats 6 minutes per minute. after 50 miles it starts correct time. I wonder is there a battery that keeps time when bike is off?

You could be driving too fast. Einstein's General Relativity sayz that time slows as you approach the speed of light. :wink2:
 

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I have the same problem . Time changes at 10 sec. per minute thats 6 minutes per minute. after 50 miles it starts correct time. I wonder is there a battery that keeps time when bike is off?
I no longer have my 1500 but I have helped others with this problem. The reason your time shifts until the bike warms up is that Honda borked up this part of their design. They have a clock that gets set with the switch on the dash but they left the input to the clock chip too high of impedance for all conditions that a bike will experience in the real world.

Two things work against that in the environment (besides electrical noise).
1. humidity
2. contaminants between connections.

The two together can overcome the high impedence and cause the clock chip to think the adjustment switch is engaging. Even if just intermittently.

This is why your clock is doing screwy stuff until the bike warms up and drives the humidity away at the connector, despite any impurities.

This is also why cleaning things often helps but the best thing to do is to overcome the high impedance of the clock inputs where the time setting wires enter the clock module.

To do this I suggest adding a 10K ohm resistor (any wattage) to both inputs and the other end of the resistors both go to the + voltage driving the clock. This makes the inputs to the clock impedance 10k rather than higher. This overcomes both 1 and 2 above

The switches themselves normally switch to ground when adjustments are being made and since they are low impedance devices, they easil override the 10k pull up resistors. You can also use 4.7k or even less but 10k should do the job and if you get too low, you will be putting too much current thru the resistors when making time adjustments.

This problem and others like it are most often seen in high humidity areas like Florida and England. It is also seen in bikes stored over the winter in unprotected cold areas until the bike gets run and warmed up for the season.

As I said, I no longer have my GL but as I recall this is the best way to overcome the environmental optimism of the Honda engineers.
 

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Rudy, can you mark up a diagram of how you mean for the resistors to be inserted? Is it on the ckt board where the hour/min switch has its input?
Thank you for your expertise. Haven't seen you on the forum for a while. Good to see you again.
 

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Rudy, can you mark up a diagram of how you mean for the resistors to be inserted? Is it on the ckt board where the hour/min switch has its input?
Thank you for your expertise. Haven't seen you on the forum for a while. Good to see you again.
Thanks. Glad to be back. As I said I no longer have my bike. If I did I'd use a voltmeter to confirm the three wires coming from the adjuster switch.
First I'd make sure the green/black wire is in fact ground. Next I'd switch on aux power to light up the LCD and confirm that the other two wires for the adjuster switch are around 5vdc and not 12vdc.

All that being true, my diagram markup pretty much shows the changes recommended. It doesn't matter where along the wires involved that the resistors should be applied but since it's possible to do so externally to the clock module, I'd avoid getting further inside it.

All that said, this markup assumes the following three things:
1. The green/black wire is the common of the switch and it is ground.
2. If the common to the switch is ground then the other two wires must float to some + voltage for the switch to pull down to ground when each adjustment is made.
3. Based on experience, that the + voltage the two non-ground wires to the switch are floated to no more than +5vdc. I wouldn't want to try to force-float the clock inputs to 12v if the inputs expect no more than 5v even though they probably have over-voltage clamping diodes on the inputs.

This is why I recommend someone confirming the 3 wires with a meter before adding the resistors.

I chose 4.7k resistors rather than 10k because I wanted 1ma pull ups to overcome humidity and dirt vs the lesser .5ma the 10k resistors would have provided.

 
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