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My Hannigan gl1500 trike rear brake performance is not as good as I expected it should be. So I thought I would try to improve the rear brake performance by replacing the rotor and pads with performance style components. These are Rotors from R1 (drilled and slotted) and Pads from Hawk (HPS series). The drilling and slots will not give better braking performance on the street but the rotors are made from 3500 series casting which may give better friction performance for the HPS hawk pads. We will see as soon as I get it back on the road.


 

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Nice setup. Can I suggest you put some copper grease on the back of the brake pads? It prevents brake squeal.
 

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It aint rocket science
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If you are using the original 1500 master cylinder, I suspect it will not have the needed volume required to move the automobile sized pistons allowing adequate braking force.

To get around this I would try disconnecting the line to the front linked brake and plumb the port back into the rears.

If this works, I would then link both front calipers to the hand brake.

JD
 

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.I am going to agree that yyou may need more master cylinder volume to activate the auto based calipers. Sad that a kit company would not address that .

any chance you can share some more photo views of the rear axle assy . That looks to be auto parts but i cant say from what .
 

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The calipers on the hannagen 1500 kit are from a 84-87 honda crx front wheel. The volume of the CRX one piston units are the same as the two piston rear honda unit. So the oil volume used to give necessary piston movemont vs pump movement is also equal. The standard rear brakes are more than adequate but require extra rear peddle pressure to overcome the standard pressure with a brake booster installed in the Auto CRX. We will see if the greater friction properties of this brake combination will equal the brake performance and peddle pressure of the booster equipped brake system in the auto CRX.

RICK
 

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Discussion Starter #6
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OK
The upgrade sure does look good which is good, very good because it sure does not stop any different than before the upgraded rotors and pads were installed . I have not completely finished bedding the pads to the new rotors yet so ma-bee the braking performance will improve??

RICK

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Discussion Starter #7
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I did a force bleed the old way using peddle pressure. It seem to have a firmer peddle now and I almost got a lockup from about 40 mph. Also the hawk HPS pads are not fully seated yet.
RICK
 

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onevw wrote:
....The volume of the CRX one piston units are the same as the two piston rear honda unit. So the oil volume used to give necessary piston movemont vs pump movement is also equal. ....
RICK
Yes if one single piston volume is equal to the Honda 2 piston caliper , thats fine if your only running one caliper. The problem is your needing to supply 2x that amount of fluid .
 

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You are correct I did not think about that Ok So I will see if I can machine one with more volume or find a substitute cylinder to weld into the original rear master housing. Any ideas will be considered so please post. I need a new project because i just finished the 1800 muffler retrofit on my1500 trike.
RICK
 

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onevw wrote:
You are correct I did not think about that Ok So I will see if I can machine one with more volume or find a substitute cylinder to weld into the original rear master housing. Any ideas will be considered so please post. I need a new project because i just finished the 1800 muffler retrofit on my1500 trike.
RICK
Here you go Rick. This article will give you a kick start in the right direction.

http://www.hotrodheaven.com/tech/brakes/

JD
 

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onevw wrote:
You are correct I did not think about that Ok So I will see if I can machine one with more volume or find a substitute cylinder to weld into the original rear master housing. Any ideas will be considered so please post. I need a new project because i just finished the 1800 muffler retrofit on my1500 trike.
RICK
Wrong direction?
A smaller cylinder in the master gives you more force to the slave cylinders. As long as the master cylinder doesn't bottom out smaller is better.
 

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Ken Bergen wrote:
onevw wrote:
You are correct I did not think about that Ok So I will see if I can machine one with more volume or find a substitute cylinder to weld into the original rear master housing. Any ideas will be considered so please post. I need a new project because i just finished the 1800 muffler retrofit on my1500 trike.
RICK
Wrong direction?
A smaller cylinder in the master gives you more force to the slave cylinders. As long as the master cylinder doesn't bottom out smaller is better.
Volume is volume weather it comes from stroke or bore isn't the issue. Peddle geomitery mite be however.

Steve
 

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I am sure the OEM linked master would not be a 50/50 deal and would have valving to give it a more standard 65/35 front to back braking pressure. Re-routing the front caliper port to a tee for the rears should in theory give more brake pressure. That is if the valving will operate in a combined same line output. Or it could be lost back through the low side.

Rick, I would try that first. It would be the easiest of options.

JD
 

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Pressure on the caliper pads is determined by the inverse ratio of the master cylinder piston top area to the area of the caliper piston top(s). The smaller the master cylinder diameter compared to the caliper diameterthe more pressure exerted on the caliper pad. The gotcha or limiting factor is that if the ratio is too great there won't be sufficient volume of hydraulic fluid to move the pads enough to get a grip on the rotor.
 

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Have you resolved your brake problem?

Does the hannigan kit delink the rear master cylinder to the left front disc? If not if you delink the pipe to the front and run steel braided hose from rear master cylinder to splitter coupling on axle direct.That will give more pressure to the rear calipers.
 

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Remove the front brake from the rear bake & using a steel braided hose join the 2 front brake together.
Plug to front line outlet on the rear master & install steel braided hose to the rear.
Also get the steel braided hose to both brakes in the rear.
The rubber hoses a old & flair up when you apply the brakes.
Big al59 is right & my Trike stops on a dime with change.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
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OK We just got back from a day trip to Denver on the trike. The brakes are now performing much better. The brake stopping power privided by the new rotors and pads is getting beter all the time now I can easily bring the loaded trike to proper stop from hwy speeds with average peddle pressure and I do not need to add any front braking to do so. I am happy with this upgrade and can recommend these to anyone.

RICK
 

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So why not use the front brake along with the rear as you ride? Spreading the braking load among four sets of brakes rather than two would extend the life of the rear brakes by reducing the heat generated at the calipers.
 
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