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Yes! Those are the plans I used. Worked very well. I could see that you could get even more room by changing your measurements. Good plans. jimsjinx
 

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Just a followup. My wife and I have put about 400 miles behind us since the trunk relocation, and she loves the added room. It helps me,too, cause I can lean my backrest a little further back without encroaching on her space. I still plan on fiddling with the helmet lock mod, but don't have the time right now. Sorry niether of us posted any pics. It is a pain in the tush to take it all apart once you got it together, that's my excuse! It does work well though. jimsjinx
 

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I would like to move my wife back as well. I think I may have to go a minimum of2" though.



For anyone who may have followed these plans, I have some questions: is it just changing the hole to hole measurements to increase the set-back(which seems pretty obvious)? I'm specifically wondering about the 3 lever latch shim. For that, does the thickness change instead (since it doesn't really seem to relocate on the X/Y axis, but rather the Z axis by 3/16"...so the new thickness should be 1/4" {((3/16)/3)*4})?



Also the helmet extension bracket drawing seems to be incomplete with measurements. That and the drawing for the helmet bracketsshows 4 holes, but the photo shows 3. I'd be happy to take pictures, and make accurate CAD drawings if someone could verify these questions for me.



Thanks!
 

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[align=center]Hi jimjinx,
A bit off topic, but I think you're the man in the know.;) I want to build a dog carrier in the trunk of my 1500 trike and need to know if the lid separates at the chrome strip behind the backrest, or would the whole cover have to come off speaker pods and all.
I want to buy a used lid and modify it. Keep the stock one nice and be able to take our little buddy along with us.

Thanks,

Bob
[/align]
 

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THE TRUNK CAN COME OFF AT THE HINGES, BUT IS ALL ON PIECE WITH THE SPEAKERS. YOU COULD GET A 2ND LID & CUT IT OFF BEHIND THE TRIM LEAVING ABOUT 2" ALL THE WAY AROUND SO IT WILL STILL LATCH. THIS WAY YOU CAN STILL HAVE THE SPEAKER,
I may have an extra lid for this as it's already damaged. I have listed it in the SALES/WANTED section.
 

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YES!! Those are the plans I used, and it works great. You can even go a little farther back than the plans if needed. Thanks for posting that link! jimsjinx
 

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cdlawren wrote:
This is a test post sorry for any inconvienance
Welcome to the forum cdlawren, back home the worst inconvenience was a bent penny at the public toilets, everything else is a blessing :cheeky1::cheeky1:
 

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I am terribly sorry i never posted pictures of my trunk relocation, but to be honest i just plain forgot about it. I have been trying to get my business going good and he bike has been on the back burner. Glad some other guys stepped up and helped yall out. Again i am truly sorry
 

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Even though this is a pretty old post, I saw it again, and wanted to answer the questions above. The aluminum is basically bolted where the trunk WAS, and the new holes you make and thread in it, are where the trunk will now sit and be attatched. The helmet holder thingy will work, but it is a PIA to manipulate the spacer and all the latch stuff. That's why I just left them where they were, and Dremeled the oblong hole a little bigger, so they'd still poke through the bottom. I have checked the assembly every time we rode, since that IS my wife leaning back on MY work! It has never gotten loose, or failed, so I guess the plans are good to go! If I had any suggestion to add, it would be to use steel instead, and have it welded properly to the existing bracketry, for a permanent installation. The aluminum is easier to work with, but welding/steel just seems better for saftey. If an aluminum bracket flexed enough times(cycled),seems the aluminum could crack. Also, I used Loc-tite on the nuts/bolts. I check it every ride. So far,though, so good. jimsjinx
 

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moved mine back 2-3/4", had to make some minor adjustments to the build, since the rear trunk holes are farther apart on my wing than the front trunk mount holes. Once I figured out the ratio, I was all good! I had to lengthen the wiring to the trunk taillights and turn signals. I did not have to lengthen the saddlebag latch cables, just a little rerouting got me enough length for them to work. I used 1" x 1/4 aluminum for the build, and did the helmet latch setback as well.

As most others on this posting, I didn't take any pictures of the build in progress, but will try to remember if I ever have to take the trunk off again
 
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