[DriverRider]

Be thankful it wasn't SEAWATER, everything on the cycle is fairly water resistant to start with and would not worry about the coils. The ECM on the right side is where my concern would be for any starting issues.

Take all the covers off let it dry out for a few days in the sun. Before trying to start again remove ECM and check for water inside.

As GL noted drain the rear drive.

 

[DriverRider]

The rear brake master cylinder reservoir was in the drink also, flush that out.

Do not use on board compressor until that is removed, checked and dessicant changed.

 

[DriverRider]

Forget the coils you could put them in a bucket of water and would still get spark. There are 3 of them and are epoxy filled and are not that easy to remove.

The coils are fired by the ECM from signals at pulse coils. The ECM is low on the side of the bike and was likely underwater. Does your cruise on light lite with key on and switch pushed in, that will confirm the circuit powering ECM should be getting power. You can check secondary resistance through coils by measuring between #1&2, 3&4 and 5&6 plug wires. Neutral light on? Side stand light? Cycle that reverse lever a couple of times that switch was under also. Fuel pump power operated differently for different years but would always get power with engine cranking and kill switch in run, do you get power there? Blk/Blu wire under seat. Fuel pump power comes directly from ECM except on 88-89 models which get fed through a relay via the ECM.

Some ign tests

 

[DriverRider]

If it had been seawater yes every wire, connection and switch contacts would be ruined in a few months. And I do agree trying to start while still soaked was not the best course of action for the electronics.

I have worked on a few occasions of cars that went through a flood, granted nothing higher than the seats but had very good results afterwards. These were insurance paid repairs.

The OP stated he cannot afford a new ride now and have to give him a fighting chance to get back on the road with a proper set of guidelines to follow.

I believe it can be done with minimal expense and encourage him.

 

[DriverRider]

Reverse needs to see oil pressure for light to illuminate, none the less it should come on briefly with bulb check at key on.

 

[DriverRider]

The 1800 is pretty much plug and play like other vehicles of today with its on board diagnostics.

During the 70's as the emission era came into full swing the days of the carburetor were numbered, soon to be replaced by fuel injection, it could not compensate quickly enough for rapidly changing engine conditions. Just like breaker point ignition before it, it was a dinosaur. A Ford engineer once told me that as soon as the dwell was set the ignition timing was changing as you drove the vehicle out of the garage as rubbing block wear was already starting, not to mention any distributor shaft wear. I always remembered that and it is true.

The 1500 was a product of its time and components available with early 80's design at best and when the last one rolled off the line in 2000 was very long in the tooth with respect to on board diagnostics.

The closest thing the 1500 has with diagnostics is the instrument panel bulb check when the key is turned on.:ROFL:

The more you tear into them the easier it gets.

 

[DriverRider]

Put some good quality non foaming carb clean spray or starting fluid directly into carb intakes with air filter out. If it wants to fire you got water in the carbs.

Put a pan under carb drain hose on right side where battery vent hose is. Open bowl drain screws with a long screwdriver through radiators and watch the water run out. Crank a few times until straight gas comes out and tighten back up and away you go. Then put some dry gas or whatever in the tank.

 

[DriverRider]

Siphon gas out of tank after removing tank top pump plate once enough fuel is removed to lower level of cover. Remove hoses at auto fuel valve. Blot up rest of water with towels or rags taped to end of coat hanger or long screwdriver at bottom of tank. The hose from valve to tee going forward remove at tee. Remove fuel line from top of tank.

Drain or blow out hoses taking note how far water got into fuel system. Draining into pan is good as you will see the water, it stays separate and sinks to bottom. Drain carbs and replace fuel filter.

Refill tank half way with fresh and a heavier dose (within reason) of a water remover, connect back together and start.

It might take a while with water remover on multiple 1/2 tanks to make sure it is all gone and might run a little rough for a while but it will clear up with time.

If you got a hose to your gas cap make sure there is no water in there.

 

[DriverRider]

The 2 hoses combine into one and goes down past oil dipstick, by frame motor mount and exits at R/R of engine.

Leave those screws open it will be a good check carbs are getting fuel when all other work is done and it comes time to crank engine over with the fresh gas. Fuel pump will only run when engine cranking (or running) and kill switch to run

After initial cranking and straight fuel comes out close one and leave the other open, again cranking and confirming good fuel. Then close the open one and open the closed one, confirm good fuel while cranking. Close that and start it up.

 

[DriverRider]

+1 With Tim O ring only and it is brass so it will not be picked up by fishing with a magnet.

Your boned. You got 2 chances of finding that thing, slim and none at all. As a last resort tip bike all the way over to right side as flat as possible, if your lucky it MIGHT fall out or roll out to someplace where you can see it. If you can, keep nose pointed down.

No more blowing air into carbs you may have already readjusted your float levels or blown the float needle out of the valve.