GL1500 Underwater

8264 Views 101 Replies 33 Participants Last post by RKB53, Aug 21, 2013

flogler

Discussion Starter · Jun 19, 2013

My 96 goldwing aspencade got caught in a bad flood where I work. Although it was in motorcycle parking the drains backed up in the lot and my bike was under water. I was told the seat was under water. I checked my side saddlebags and water came out when I opened them. Although this was a few hours later, the bike wouldn't fire. It would crank over but thats it. I had exactly 215000 miles on the odemeter. I pulled the starter(it finally did stop cranking) and when I took it apart, water came out and the armature is shot as well as the brushes (only had 10000 miles on the starter rebuild).
I am currently in talks with the my job as to if I will get any money for repairs. Of course I had just dropped my full coverage insurance 6 weeks ago.
Question, I have parts coming to rebuild the starter but I know that will only fix the cranking portion of it. I'm sure it still won't start. I have fresh oil in it and the old oil didn't look too bad so I 'm confident not much water got in the engine. What can I look at and where will be my coil packs or ignition system for my wires be should I not get spark? Thanks for your help-I can't afford to replace this bike at this time.

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DriverRider

· #21 · Jun 24, 2013

Forget the coils you could put them in a bucket of water and would still get spark.

There are 3 of them and are epoxy filled and are not that easy to remove.

The coils are fired by the ECM from signals at pulse coils. The ECM is low on the side of the bike and was likely underwater. Does your cruise on light lite with key on and switch pushed in, that will confirm the circuit powering ECM should be getting power. You can check secondary resistance through coils by measuring between #1&2, 3&4 and 5&6 plug wires. Neutral light on? Side stand light? Cycle that reverse lever a couple of times that switch was under also. Fuel pump power operated differently for different years but would always get power with engine cranking and kill switch in run, do you get power there? Blk/Blu wire under seat. Fuel pump power comes directly from ECM except on 88-89 models which get fed through a relay via the ECM.

Some ign tests

sandiegobrass

· #22 · Jun 24, 2013

Not the messenger of good news.. If this bike was submerged then IMO find another running bike; your throwing good money after bad.. (besides, at 215000 miles you have used most of the life anyway)

DriverRider

· #23 · Jun 24, 2013

If it had been seawater yes every wire, connection and switch contacts would be ruined in a few months. And I do agree trying to start while still soaked was not the best course of action for the electronics.

I have worked on a few occasions of cars that went through a flood, granted nothing higher than the seats but had very good results afterwards. These were insurance paid repairs.

The OP stated he cannot afford a new ride now and have to give him a fighting chance to get back on the road with a proper set of guidelines to follow.

I believe it can be done with minimal expense and encourage him.

JerryH

· #24 · Jun 24, 2013

All I can say is best of luck with it. If it were mine I might work on it, as my time is free, but I would not put any real money into it. If the engine was submerged even for 5 minutes, water got everywhere. And since it has such high mileage, I would not consider it to be worth spending a lot of money on. You would likely be throwing away money that could go toward getting another bike. If it were a classic collectors item it would be a different story, but nice used 1500s are readily available. And if you want to go to the trouble, you can tear it down and sell the good parts on eBay. Just my opinion.

flogler

Discussion Starter · #25 · Jun 28, 2013

Side stand, nuetral and cruise light all come on. Haven't pulled the upper fairing yet as I am out of town till july. Have a new solenoid on order as I do know that was bad.

flogler

Discussion Starter · #26 · Jun 28, 2013

Question: reverse was working before all this happened, now with key on and reverse lever up I did notice no light on my dash (R). Is this because bike not running or could this be the problem? I guess that makes sense that bike won't start if it thinks it is in reverse!

DriverRider

· #27 · Jun 28, 2013

Reverse needs to see oil pressure for light to illuminate, none the less it should come on briefly with bulb check at key on.

Cyclebuster

· #28 · Jun 28, 2013

my biggest issue with the overly complex 1500 and 1800s. between expensive parts and labor, are 377 things that can be wrong. find your ignition triggers. unhook them, pull the plugs and crank it, even without the key and kill switch on, those little pulsers produce a signal that can be read with a multimeter as AC voltage. no voltage=no signal and no chance it could work.

DriverRider

· #29 · Jun 28, 2013

The 1800 is pretty much plug and play like other vehicles of today with its on board diagnostics.

During the 70's as the emission era came into full swing the days of the carburetor were numbered, soon to be replaced by fuel injection, it could not compensate quickly enough for rapidly changing engine conditions. Just like breaker point ignition before it, it was a dinosaur. A Ford engineer once told me that as soon as the dwell was set the ignition timing was changing as you drove the vehicle out of the garage as rubbing block wear was already starting, not to mention any distributor shaft wear. I always remembered that and it is true.

The 1500 was a product of its time and components available with early 80's design at best and when the last one rolled off the line in 2000 was very long in the tooth with respect to on board diagnostics.

The closest thing the 1500 has with diagnostics is the instrument panel bulb check when the key is turned on.:ROFL:

The more you tear into them the easier it gets.

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Ol Stevie Boy

· #30 · Jun 29, 2013

Just so you can hear a little encouragement, let me tell you this. I have a neighbor who got a real good deal on a 1500 with a salvage title. The reason for the salvage title was it had been totaled by the insurance company after it had been under water for about 2 days. That was at least 6 or 7 years ago. He described to me what all he did to it to get it running. He is just a little bit above a shade tree mechanic. It is still running to this day. I asked him if any of the components failed in what would be considered a premature time. He said the only thing he had noticed after about 4 years was that the tail pipes were starting to rumble. He figured they were beginning to rust out.

A lot of guys here are saying your bike is toast. They might be right. They might be wrong. It's your bike, your money.

Steve

saws-n-wings

· #31 · Jun 29, 2013

Ol Stevie Boy said:
Just so you can hear a little encouragement, let me tell you this. I have a neighbor who got a real good deal on a 1500 with a salvage title. The reason for the salvage title was it had been totaled by the insurance company after it had been under water for about 2 days. That was at least 6 or 7 years ago. He described to me what all he did to it to get it running. He is just a little bit above a shade tree mechanic. It is still running to this day. I asked him if any of the components failed in what would be considered a premature time. He said the only thing he had noticed after about 4 years was that the tail pipes were starting to rumble. He figured they were beginning to rust out.

A lot of guys here are saying your bike is toast. They might be right. They might be wrong. It's your bike, your money.

Steve

I agree and
dont think the bike is hurt that bad . just fix whats broke and ride on.

flogler

Discussion Starter · #32 · Jul 8, 2013

Update: Finally have more time to play with the bike and getting frustrated too. Got a new starter solenoid as old one definitely bad. Engine now cranking with starter button. Checked my readings at ecm connector and all are within specs. While the connector was off, it did show water intrusion. Put another ecm on (ebay) and now I get spark at each cylinder(pulled plugs and blu out any moisture on the plug also). Bike is still not running. Pulled fuel pump line before the filter and I get fuel while engine is cranking. Engine still won't run. What is left to check? Could engine compression be that low that it wouldn't run at all? I just find that hard to believe! If it ran rough I would understand. Hate to give up on a bike due to the company's negligence!

galaxyhunter

· #33 · Jul 8, 2013

flogler said:
Update: --- Could engine compression be that low that it wouldn't run at all? I just find that hard to believe! If it ran rough I would understand. Hate to give up on a bike due to the company's negligence!

Did you try shooting a little oil in the cylinders? Back in my circle track days, one engine I rebuilt would not start. It ended up that when I first tried to start it, it flooded out & washed the oil off of the cylinder walls. Someone told me to take a oil can & give it a couple of shots in each cylinder. After I did that, it fired right off. Might be worth a try.:?

saws-n-wings

· #34 · Jul 8, 2013

+1 on what galaxyhunter said. also you could give it a shot of carb cleaner in each cylinder see if it will fire off and run on that.

DriverRider

· #35 · Jul 8, 2013

Put some good quality non foaming carb clean spray or starting fluid directly into carb intakes with air filter out. If it wants to fire you got water in the carbs.

Put a pan under carb drain hose on right side where battery vent hose is. Open bowl drain screws with a long screwdriver through radiators and watch the water run out. Crank a few times until straight gas comes out and tighten back up and away you go. Then put some dry gas or whatever in the tank.

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flogler

Discussion Starter · #36 · Jul 8, 2013

Yep, I tried a shot of starting fluid and it really wanted to run. Happen to look at fuel gage and it is showing full when it should be a 1/4 tank. Tank is full of water. Now, how do I drain my system

DriverRider

· #37 · Jul 8, 2013

Siphon gas out of tank after removing tank top pump plate once enough fuel is removed to lower level of cover. Remove hoses at auto fuel valve. Blot up rest of water with towels or rags taped to end of coat hanger or long screwdriver at bottom of tank. The hose from valve to tee going forward remove at tee. Remove fuel line from top of tank.

Drain or blow out hoses taking note how far water got into fuel system. Draining into pan is good as you will see the water, it stays separate and sinks to bottom. Drain carbs and replace fuel filter.

Refill tank half way with fresh and a heavier dose (within reason) of a water remover, connect back together and start.

It might take a while with water remover on multiple 1/2 tanks to make sure it is all gone and might run a little rough for a while but it will clear up with time.

If you got a hose to your gas cap make sure there is no water in there.

flogler

Discussion Starter · #38 · Jul 10, 2013

I got the two drain screws loose(one for each carb) but I take it that the water doesn't come out of the screw but from another place attached to a hose? Is there two hoses then? I did see some come out on the left one. I guess I was waiting for it to run down the front of the engine.

DriverRider

· #39 · Jul 10, 2013

The 2 hoses combine into one and goes down past oil dipstick, by frame motor mount and exits at R/R of engine.

Leave those screws open it will be a good check carbs are getting fuel when all other work is done and it comes time to crank engine over with the fresh gas. Fuel pump will only run when engine cranking (or running) and kill switch to run

After initial cranking and straight fuel comes out close one and leave the other open, again cranking and confirming good fuel. Then close the open one and open the closed one, confirm good fuel while cranking. Close that and start it up.

Dannyboy1949

· #40 · Jul 10, 2013

When an automobile is flooded up to the dash the laws in most states require the insurance company to total it...for good reason. Unfortunately many times the cars or parts are later unloaded on unwitting victims who aren't aware of their history. Sorry to have to say this but: it's unlikely your bike will ever again be dependable. No way in heck you can submerge all those mechanical and electronic components and expect them to be the same in terms of longevity or reliability. Sea water is worse, but fresh water is bad enough. I'd disclose the flood damage to any prospective buyers and sell the bike to start over with another motorcycle although personally...I probably couldn't afford it.

I know, "easy for me to say" as it's not my problem, but this is the cold hard truth and it's a Beeatch :sadguy:

Maybe it's a lot different in Florida, but full coverage on a 'Wing here in Oregon is so cheap it's almost free ($160 yearly for me)...no reason to not to keep it in force. Sorry to hear you dropped your coverage. Sometimes we roll the dice and get Snake Eyes. We've all been there.

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