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Recently someone posted a neat trick, about how to operate both the Hi & Low Beams Simultaneously (Put on Hi-beam, then slowly move the switch to the mid-way position, at which point both beams will remain on). W-O-W, what a great improvement in light output!

Anyhow, it worked just great on my 2000, but on my 1990 it also worked for a few minutes, then blew out the fuse to the headlight, and a relay to the brake light.

So anyhow, I'd suggest NOT utilizing this neat trick... Was not fun riding the remaining 30miles home in the dark on the freeway, hah.
 

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That was probably me, Alex....:readit:... talking about the 'Sweet Spot' you can find bygingerly moving the switch between the Hi/Lo position.

Are you running aftermarket bulbs?

I used that with the stock 45/45WOEM bulb for over 3 years with no problems whatsoever ....... until this summer, after I changed my still good OEM bulbs out to the higher rated 60/55W bulbs.

I was on my way to a M&G in MI and on the road by 3:30AM. I was about 35mi from home when both headlights suddenly went out. Good thing I had my aux 55W driving lamps going, or it would have been a very miserable ride for 2 1/2hrs before the sun rose. When I got to the M&G, I checked things over and discovered the fuse had blown, so I installed a new one. After that I didn't drive with them in the 'Sweet Spot' position that much, until I was at the WCWNJMR, out by Crater lake, on a ride back at night. Just as I was entering the campground. Same thing happened. Installed another fuse.

A little while later, just before the ES7 M&G, while at Flyone's house and after having washed the bike, Bill informed me one of my headlights was blown. I installed a replacement from an auto parts store nearbyand things were fine until near the end of the season, when I meet up with aspencade96 and Bob informed me another bulb had blow. It turned out that both of the initial replacement bulbs had a very short life. :XGoes to show you, you get what you pay for. I reinstalled one of my original OEM 45/45W bulbs and all has been fine .... so far.

I think there istoo much current draw with the 65/55W bulbs, while the 45/45W OEM bulbs don't place as high a demand on the wiring system, when running in the 'Sweet Spot'. :?



Dusty
 

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Dusty Boots wrote:
...I think there istoo much current draw with the 65/55W bulbs, while the 45/45W OEM bulbs don't place as high a demand on the wiring system, when running in the 'Sweet Spot'...
> Guess that's the key, as my 2000 has the lower wattage bulbs, but the 1990 (which blew the fuse/relay) has the higher wattage ones.

Anyhow, it sure was fun while it lasted! :)
 

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For better lighting put in the HID Bi-xenon systems. 4500-6000 lum rating is close to the sweet spot you need. Less draw @ 35watts Digital Slim Ballast, and much brighter/better lighting. The Bi-xenon have a mechanical hood to change the light dispersing pattern to be the same pattern as halogen bulbs have to be legal and not blind other drivers.

Here is an example

http://www.amazon.com/BRIGHTT-Bi-Xenon-HID-KIT-H4/dp/B004L285BY
 

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Ya .... with the aux 55s and the switch on the 'Sweet Spot', my bike really lights up the road. I used to ride that way at night all the time when I lived out in BC, for fear of all the LARGE forest rats about. (deer/moose/elk/bear) Never had a problem with fuses/bulbs until the switch to higher wattage bulbs. :baffling:
 

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newday777 wrote:
For better lighting put in the HID Bi-xenon systems. 4500-6000 lum rating is close to the sweet spot you need. Less draw @ 35watts Digital Slim Ballast, and much brighter/better lighting. The Bi-xenon have a mechanical hood to change the light dispersing pattern to be the same pattern as halogen bulbs have to be legal and not blind other drivers.

Here is an example

http://www.amazon.com/BRIGHTT-Bi-Xenon-HID-KIT-H4/dp/B004L285BY
I agree on the HID headlights. I have one in my 1100 and also have them in my car. I highly recommend VVRE Brand. (Also available on eBay.)
They have AC Digital Ballasts (both important features) and although they ship from China, they arrive in 4 days via DHL. (East Coast, USA) Customer Service is excellent. I had a relay fail on the one in my bike, they asked me to destroy the harness, send them a photo, and then shipped a replacement to me. It arrived in 4 days too.
You can get 55 Watt output (bright as the sun!!) or slim ballast 35 Watt output (still very bright!)
They are not the cheapest ones out there, but they are only a few bucks more than the cheapest. They also have a 2 year warranty.
 

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I got the same hint from the same person. But I had the higher wattage bulbs. Man did that trick work great for a while!! Had the same problem on the way from Boston MA to Hamburg, NY. We drove just a few miles with Patty holding our Maglight on the country road we were on. We arrived at a firehall around 11 pm and were able to replace the fuse for the last 20-30 miles.
 

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Sorry ... I didn't realize at thattimethe relatively small difference in bulb wattage between OEM and aftermarket, would make such a drastic difference to the fuse handling capabilities of the 15 amp fuse! :wtf: :sadguy:
 

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Dusty Boots wrote:
Sorry ... I didn't realize at thattimethe relatively small difference in bulb wattage between OEM and aftermarket, would make such a drastic difference to the fuse handling capabilities of the 15 amp fuse!
> "The road to hell is paved with good intentions" :badgrin: :smiler: :smiler: :smiler:
 

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I always replace my lighting fuses with circuit breakers. NAPA usually has some that will plug in with no problems. If they do not I just get a universal one and adapt it to the fuse block. I will not have a fuse in any safty related circuit.

Learned that driving trucks and pulling trailers. They will pop out with an intermittent short but pop back in and you have the circuit back back.
 

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You could use the high beam output wire to trigger a relay with a separately derived and fused power circuit to power the high beam. Just don't forget that the size of the headlight ground wire will likely have to be increased in size. Additionally I wonder if the socket itself could even have a meltdown on the ground connection. Anyway just food for thought...
 
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