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my 98 gl1500 se wont start i have replaced both sol replaced the battery I here both sol click when I push the start button the battery has 12.5 volts in it but it wont turn over anyone have any ideals
 

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with a test light, see if you are getting current to the starter when you push the start button. If you are tap on the starter while pushing the start button and see if the starter will engage. With age and wear, starters sometimes need a little help. if this works, it is time for a starter refresh. If it is not getting current to the starter, start tracing back to the solenoid. If the starter is not easy accessible, check the starter cable side of the solenoid for current when the start button is pushed.
 

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HI and welcome to GoldWingFacts.

There's usualy a simple thing that makes these bikes not start as long as it was running recently. Beginning checklist...
1.) Fuses (By the DogBone fuse there's other smaller fuses - right side cover)
2.) Relays (in the fuse box - left side cover)

If these are OK you have to go back and trace what you did just prior to this problem.
Rewired something? Added something? Checked something and moved "X" to get to that something? Just back trace what you did and it usualy shows up.

There is one fuse thats rather touchy. In the fuse box the 5 amp fuse at the bottom of therelays.It's wire inside is really hard to see, it is very thin.

MAYBE???

Let us knowwhen you find it. We are interested.
Do keep track of what you've checked/done, that's also a big help.

;). . . Floyd
 

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Is you kill switch in the middle 'run' position. The starter won't turn over in etheir off position.
 

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Are you starting it in Neutral, and do you get a Nuetral Light on the dash, when trying to start?
 

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mhhatton wrote:
my 98 gl1500 se wont start i have replaced both sol replaced the battery I here both sol click when I push the start button the battery has 12.5 volts in it but it wont turn over anyone have any ideals
In a '98 where BOTH starter solenoids are clicking, there should be 12V at the starter as oharaLTD posts. For solenoid "A" to engage (and by extension for solenoid "B" to engage), the starting safety items have been satisfied, and should not require further investigation until a fault can be located in the starter's high-current connections.



Follow the voltage to the high current connections on the solenoids and to the starter itself; look for 12V at each point while the starter button is pressed-in ... Suspect either a loose connection or a failed starter.(e.g. a loose connection at the battery can exibit these symptoms)



Starters can (and do) hang-up their brushes. If you see 12V at the starter lug while pressing the start button, you may wanna try whacking the rear of the starter with a mallet to see if you can free a sticky brush and re-test, prior to replacing the starter.
 

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hydrolock take your plugs out and try see what happens you never know and its free
 

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Check your battery cables with a screwdriver or wrench to make sure they are tight (finger tight doesn't count):cheesygrin:.
 
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