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Hello everyone,

Recently on my 1994 GL1500se I had to brake hard at about 70mph and both myself and my underpants were rather unimpressed with the brakes performance. The brakes faded quickly and lost much of their affectiveness. Normal brakingseems fine, the discs are very good and the oem pads are very good all round, allcalipers are free and working well.The bike was unladen at the time butif it was fully laden for touring I don't think I would have stopped in time. It was a dry day.

Does anyone know of better pads to use and if braided hoses would help or maybe more powerful calipers. Any help is much appreciated.

Many thanks, Martin G15WNG
 

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Braided lines will definitely help, after market pads may offer more stopping power, but may also wear quicker. Don't know if more powerful calipers are available.
 

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HELLO GEORGE, I WILL TRY MORE POWERFUL PADS AND SEE ABOUT THE BRAIDED HOSES, THANKS MARTIN
 

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See your other post on the same subject.
 

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Welcome to this forum.

Have you recently replaced your pads, and how many miles are on them?

I have replaced mine in the past with I do not know what, but I lived with them untilworn out. I thought my brakes or lack of was just the nature of the 1500s,and I always was concerned with its braking force and distance. Then I used "copper sinter" pads and to me what a big difference. Can you lock up your front tire from braking, I can. It was now like having power brakes. I like having brakes and if these pad which I do not think they were anything really special on ebay wears out my rotors faster, so be it.

I am not a fan of braided cables. Pressure is pressure,if they balloon or bottom out, that is another problem.

Do a search here on the forum.
 

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Did you take a look at the pads to see if they picked some oil or grease??? Could have thrown up something from a bad wheel bearing or off a tire from the road..
 

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Brake fade is usually caused by the fluid having absorbed moisture and when it gets hot in the caliper from hard braking the water turns to steam which is compressible.
A brake fluid change is in order.
 

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How hot can a brake caliper get? I really can not see it or the fluid getting too hot. I would think thelining does not have very good heat transfer properties, and then the base metal of the pad would have to transfer heat to the piston then fluid. Hard braking does not instantaneously transfer heatto the fluid and the amount of metal acts as a heat sink.
 

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Foosman(5) wrote:
How hot can a brake caliper get? I really can not see it or the fluid getting too hot. I would think thelining does not have very good heat transfer properties, and then the base metal of the pad would have to transfer heat to the piston then fluid. Hard braking does not instantaneously transfer heatto the fluid and the amount of metal acts as a heat sink.
OK, I know nothing.
Why do you suppose they recommend DOT 4 fluid which has a higher boiling point than DOT 3 ?
 

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Monkey with a Football
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Davogd430 wrote:
Foosman(5) wrote:
How hot can a brake caliper get? I really can not see it or the fluid getting too hot. I would think thelining does not have very good heat transfer properties, and then the base metal of the pad would have to transfer heat to the piston then fluid. Hard braking does not instantaneously transfer heatto the fluid and the amount of metal acts as a heat sink.
OK, I know nothing.
Why do you suppose they recommend DOT 4 fluid which has a higher boiling point than DOT 3 ?
In case you cook with it. :cheeky1:
 

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Foosman(5) wrote:
How hot can a brake caliper get? I really can not see it or the fluid getting too hot. I would think thelining does not have very good heat transfer properties, and then the base metal of the pad would have to transfer heat to the piston then fluid. Hard braking does not instantaneously transfer heatto the fluid and the amount of metal acts as a heat sink.
The fundamental function of the braking system is to convert kinetic energy into heat energy through friction. The problem G15WNG described sounds to me like it might be fluid fade.

This link explains braking and brake fade in more detail. http://www.h-e-lusa.com/BRAKE%20INFO-2.htm
 

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I am also in the change/flush the fluids camp . But then I also use braided lines.
 

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Davogd430 wrote:
Brake fade is usually caused by the fluid having absorbed moisture and when it gets hot in the caliper from hard braking the water turns to steam which is compressible.
A brake fluid change is in order.
This can definitely happen. I have personally seen it happen to a fellow rider in the mountains. When the fluid cooled the brakes would work again but not good. He changed the fluid and had no more problems. Regular fluid changes is part of his PM now.

The same thing can happen to your clutch fluid.
 

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Here are some discussions of boiling points and wet boiling points. They say the caliper can typically exceed +200F which would not be good for DOT 5 since it would not absorb water.

http://www.sportbikesolutions.com/motorcycle_brake_fluid.php?ssparms=articles/brake-fluid

http://www.irvansmith.com/scart/brake-fluid-temp-single-p-500.html

Brake fade: Hard braking generates a lot of heat. If the pads and rotors themselves get extremely hot, they get to the point they do not have any braking force. How hot can rotors get - cherry red and not necessarily from racing. Many performance rotorshave added cooling vanes andcross cut holes to aid in cooling to maintain higher braking performance.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fade
 

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I've always liked the "Less Racy" organic / standard pads 'cause I like the feel. When the sintered ones on my 1500 wore out, I replaced them with these. They faded terribly and wore out in no time, so I'm back to sintered now and they seem to suit this bike much better. Due to all that weight I guess. steve
 
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