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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Folks,
been having intermittent problems with my starter button and kill switch, and now having tracked down a complete new assembly for the starter switch unit I am trying to just change the whole unit.

I have most of the body work off in terms of side and upper panels and know generally what to do BUT I cant see where the main thick electrical cable with the multi pin connector blocks (one red and one brown) goes. I can see it running inside handlebar and across to the head stem where it seems to disappear down into the front of the fairing.

Before I start stripping it down any further trying to track that cable, does anyone know where it actually runs to and therefore where in the harness I will need to get access to to plug in the connector blocks on the new unit ?

Many thanks in advance for any help, and if any one knows of any 'gotcha's' I need to be aware of when doing this that would also be great.

Cheers all.
 

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These should be in the right side fairing area -- in the connector block above the right fan. There's a little variation across years, but for the SE's that red one for the start/reverse/kill stuff is just about dead-center in the connector mount. The "brown" connector should be the cruise stuff...(? black wire with yellow stripe and two white wires with colored stripes??), that one is over on the same collection of connectors atop the right fan (should be next to the red connector for the start/kill stuff)

Prolly the easiest way to do these is to tie a string to each of installed the connectors as you remove them from the block, and working UPWARDs, slowly un-route the old connector from the OEM harness... Then when installing the new -- you can follow (and sometimes even "pull") the string to get your replacement connections into the correct bundles and routes.

Generally, it'll help to have a few wire-ties on hand... you'll be loosening quite a few, and you're likely to bust or cut more than one
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
These should be in the right side fairing area -- in the connector block above the right fan. There's a little variation across years, but for the SE's that red one for the start/reverse/kill stuff is just about dead-center in the connector mount. The "brown" connector should be the cruise stuff...(? black wire with yellow stripe and two white wires with colored stripes??), that one is over on the same collection of connectors atop the right fan (should be next to the red connector for the start/kill stuff)

Prolly the easiest way to do these is to tie a string to each of installed the connectors as you remove them from the block, and working UPWARDs, slowly un-route the old connector from the OEM harness... Then when installing the new -- you can follow (and sometimes even "pull") the string to get your replacement connections into the correct bundles and routes.

Generally, it'll help to have a few wire-ties on hand... you'll be loosening quite a few, and you're likely to bust or cut more than one
Thanks for the tip Satan, at least i'll start by removing correct next bit of bodywork hopefully !

Yes - into the Brown connector block, of the 6 wires entering, it I do have as you say one black with yellow stripe and two white with coloured stripes (one Blue and one yellow I think).
 

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It'll help to disconnect the battery (or at least leave the key "OFF" as you're in there...

While you're mucking about, it may be wise to disconnect, clean, and inspect all of those connectors there. They're quite exposed to foul weather and can cause other failures. For instance, at the right edge top of that connector bracket will be a white 4-pin connector that passes the signal from your pulse generators back to the ECU; the signal there is quite weak and small amounts of corrosion can cause issues with timing and spark and such -- good one to clean in my view; might as well have a look at all of em.

:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Satan, Thanks again for this. Myself and a fellow wing riding friend have just completed this job and tested it . Yet to put final few body panels on and road test, but the most significant ones are back and we have static tested everything.

Pain of a job and dont want to do it again, so for any one else thinking of this your tip on checking the other connectors is a good one. For any one else reading the thread that does have to do this it may also be worth passing on that we found that to get at the connectors properly and swap/clean them , the easiest way was to pull out the upper air intakes that run above them from the back of the fairing. Two screws / bolts , move a couple of connector block mounts, and a bit of careful wiggling but we got them out ok and it gave good access to these.

Worst bit was indeed trying to get at the cable ties running behind the headstock and down into the fairing and then refitting.

Cheers.
 
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