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Hi to all in the Honda Goldwing manufacturing process (or an aftermarket supplier).
I would like to offer a suggestion about the anti dive system on the GL1800.
You’ve no doubt had some feedback from many owners about the anti dive actuating cylinder sticking on andcausing a less than comfortable ride. The problem is the actuating cylinder on top of the anti dive actuating valve located on the left front lower fork tube it’s directly connected to the secondary master cylinder above the left front calliper.
This cylinder tends to stick in the ‘on’ position when the lubricating grease surrounding the two seals on the internal piston dries out. Eventually the rubber seals bind and create dust. The dried out grease and dust turns to a paste that also combines with the moisture in the atmosphere, this causes the actuating cylinder to bind and occasionally fail.
My suggestion would be to replace the hydraulic actuating cylinder with a shrouded solenoid. This solenoid to be activated by an electronic switch that combines information from the brake light circuit and the speedometer pulse generator. This way, when the wheels are turning and when either or both brake lever / brake pedal is activated a signal is transmitted to the solenoid to trigger the anti dive mechanism. Activation will be quick and deactivation will be quicker, the suspension can be bounce tested and checked with the ignition power switched off, removing the potential interference of the current anti dive mechanical/hydraulic link if the cylinder piston is sticking. Another advantage to this solenoid unit would be, less brake pipe and less brake pipe means less fluid and a firmer braking action.
Thank you for taking the time to read this suggestion, please find time to answer the poll above.
Paul Hopewell.
Hi to all in the Honda Goldwing manufacturing process (or an aftermarket supplier).
I would like to offer a suggestion about the anti dive system on the GL1800.
You’ve no doubt had some feedback from many owners about the anti dive actuating cylinder sticking on andcausing a less than comfortable ride. The problem is the actuating cylinder on top of the anti dive actuating valve located on the left front lower fork tube it’s directly connected to the secondary master cylinder above the left front calliper.
This cylinder tends to stick in the ‘on’ position when the lubricating grease surrounding the two seals on the internal piston dries out. Eventually the rubber seals bind and create dust. The dried out grease and dust turns to a paste that also combines with the moisture in the atmosphere, this causes the actuating cylinder to bind and occasionally fail.
My suggestion would be to replace the hydraulic actuating cylinder with a shrouded solenoid. This solenoid to be activated by an electronic switch that combines information from the brake light circuit and the speedometer pulse generator. This way, when the wheels are turning and when either or both brake lever / brake pedal is activated a signal is transmitted to the solenoid to trigger the anti dive mechanism. Activation will be quick and deactivation will be quicker, the suspension can be bounce tested and checked with the ignition power switched off, removing the potential interference of the current anti dive mechanical/hydraulic link if the cylinder piston is sticking. Another advantage to this solenoid unit would be, less brake pipe and less brake pipe means less fluid and a firmer braking action.
Thank you for taking the time to read this suggestion, please find time to answer the poll above.
Paul Hopewell.