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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2007 Gl1800, front brakes squeak, one per revolution, not terribly loud, last 50 feet of a slow stop. OEM pads, nearly new. Pull the pads and clean them with brake parts cleaner spray (do NOT use the "green" version of this product...it leaves a residue that causes the brakes to chatter) and the squeak goes away....for a while. I realize the one per revolution indicates a high spot or warp in my rotor (which I can not feel in the braking) OR rotor contamination at that particular spot. Squeak stopping after things are cleaned seems to confirm this but why does it keep coming back? There are absolutely NO fluid leaks on the bike. Could this actually be the backs of the pads squeaking against the caliper pistons and if so, what is the solution? Would a film of high temp brake grease on the backs of the pads stop that type of squeak, or would the grease become an attractant to dust and dirt, and make future service difficult/messy? Anybody care to offer insight? Thanks
 

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Has the recall check been done on your brakes?
 

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Warped disc would be my guess ,if it is only happening once every revolution ,then the disc is warped.
 

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Yes, put a coat of copper brake grease or moly paste on the back of the pads and on the ends where they fit into the caliper.
 

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Next time your brakes get squeaky, find a lonely highway and do some aggressive braking from highway speeds down to 20mph or so. Ride a mile or two and let the brakes cool down. Repeat a few times. That usually seems to quiet them down for awhile plus it gives you a chance to practice your quick stops.
 

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Hi Jim, I've not seen the problem on the 1800's, they have shims between the pad and caliper that keep them quiet. My older bikes had no shims and using either brake grease or brake quiet was a must. Either product would silence them until the next pad change.
 

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Hi Jim, I've not seen the problem on the 1800's, they have shims between the pad and caliper that keep them quiet. My older bikes had no shims and using either brake grease or brake quiet was a must. Either product would silence them until the next pad change.

They all came with the shims. Since aftermarket pads come without them they do not get transferred, just thrown away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys, I appreciate the look into your collective knowledge. As I understand it, grease may offer resolution with out detrimental affect. Dave, you mentioned copper brake grease. I've not seen it but am sure I can find it. Is copper specifically suited for this or will a high temp waterproof brake/bearing grease do the trick?
 

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He also mentioned Moly Paste, which I assume he means the same stuff we use to lube the drive splines. That is probably what I would use since I already have some on hand. Whatever you use remember that just "a little dab will do you".
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I also noted during maintenance that on the front, only the inboard pads have shims. Not sure why they manufactured them that way. Could that account for noise?
 

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Have you tried swapping the pads around, ie put the outboard pad on the inside and the inside one on out?
 

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He also mentioned Moly Paste, which I assume he means the same stuff we use to lube the drive splines. That is probably what I would use since I already have some on hand. Whatever you use remember that just "a little dab will do you".
Yes, the same moly paste, that is what comes with Honda car brake pads, a little packet in each set.

I also noted during maintenance that on the front, only the inboard pads have shims. Not sure why they manufactured them that way. Could that account for noise?
I sure thought I remembered they had shims on both, some do some don't I guess. Mine squeaked a little on my 2010 until I lubed them.

Have you tried swapping the pads around, ie put the outboard pad on the inside and the inside one on out?
You can't on an 1800, there is an inner and an outer pad.
 

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My 1800 will do this as well. I do a couple of "hard" stops and it quits. Pads are probably
getting bit of glazing. Try a few quick stops at highway speeds and see if it helps.
 

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If you swap both pads from left rotor to right rotor and vice versa, you will also be swapping inner and outer pads. The vented backing plate stays with the original side it was on, and is always installed opposite the piston side pad...against the caliper itself.
 
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