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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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Okay guys,



My 2004 GL1800 with 73k trouble free miles suddenly decides to give me a problem. Yesterday evneing took her out for a spin and she was running great. Pulled into a service station to filler up and when l started the bike it was idling at 2,500 rpm in neutral. Tried twisting the throttle but it continued to remain at 2.5k when released. Turned off the bike an tried again, same deal. The throttle is turning free, no sticking and you can feel it hit bottom. decided to try disconnecting the battery (to reboot the ECM), still 2.5k. Rode it home praying for all green lights for 35 miles.It shifts fine considering its idling so high and when i got to fifth geareverything was normal, temp, etc. no warning lights ever came on the dash.Had to use the brakes to slow down. Any suggestions as to the cause of this. Got a ride planned for next weekend to Fayetteville Arkansas for the bikes blues andBBQ rally and was hoping to make it.





Thanks in advance:?
 

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Try resetting the ECM by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. Then reconnect it and start the engine, but don't touch the throttle. If the engine idles normally, let it warm up to normal temperature still without touching the throttle. Once it warms up, switch off and the jobs done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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gaswing,

tried, waited 2 hours still no go. still at 2.5k rpm. dug into the belly of the beast and the intake opens and closes normally with the twist of the throttle so l know that the cables are not kinked. now what guys? when i did try to start it, it momentarily dropped rpm to like 2k but quickly recovered
 

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Check if there are any codes in the ECM, especially 29. I think either the idle air control valve is bad or there may be a loose vacuum hose on the throttle body.
To get the codes you will need to jumper the SCS connector, behind the relay box in a rubber boot is a 2 pin connector with a dummy cap on it, remove the dummy connector and jumper the brown and green wires together and turn the ignition on. The F1 light will blink codes, long blink is 10s short blinks are 1s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
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thanks dave, You Arkansas guys are the best!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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okay got my codes, 12,13,14,15,16,17 and 41 every code was fuel injector except 41 and since it's a trike l would expect a faulty kickstand switch code. Now what, l depressurized the fuel and added an injector cleaner, let it run for ten minutes and still 2.5k rpm. I really don't look forward to digging into the bike to check vacuum hoses, any suggestions, PLEASE!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
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when l dug into the bike l discovered a stripped phillips screw holding the air cleaner housing to the throttle body, the other three are fine. in order to get to the vac hoses l have to get the screw out any suggestions on that little problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
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well used a dremel to cut a slot for a flat-head screwdiver and the screw is out. inspected the hoses and all appear to be in good working order, no cracks, looses connections etc. now what?
 

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It is not an injector problem, don't know why it would have those codes. With the air cleaner out but everything connected and the engine running put your fingers over the 2 holes in the center rear of the throttle body where it is sucking in air and see if it slows the idle. If so the IACV is probably stuck open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
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dave did what you asked and indeed the idle went down to the 700rpm range, so whats the fix and just exactly is an IACV. feeling beeter bout the problem already
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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dave did what you asked and indeed the idle went down to the 700rpm range, so whats the fix and just exactly is an IACV. feeling beeter bout the problem already
 

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Atta boy Dave! :thumbsup: Good remote troubleshooting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
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Dave great job! one last question , the manual says l have to remove the radiator to install the part but l was thinking that an off-set phillips screwdriver woud reach them just fine. What do you think cause thats a lot more bike to tear down?
 

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An offset screwdriver or pull the gas tank, it's really pretty easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
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l'm 6'5", 208lb's and some one bigger than me installed the screws, why did they screw them down soooo tight and use cheap screws to boot, no wonder so many phillip head screws are twisted out on this thing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
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Dave: tried ordering the part using your link but was told the part would take 5 to 7 days for delivery, that was a deal breaker. called my honda dealer and got lucky as a honda tech was there and after talking to him, he confirmed that you did a great job figuring out the problem and is sending me the part over night delivery, should have it tomorrow. Had to cut slots in both screws holding the valve on as the cheap phillips head screws stripped out very easily. Replacing them with m5x,8 hex head grade 8 which should take care of the problem. Only cost 88cents and so much better. Hopefully l will get this wing back together in time to go, then pray for dry weather.
 

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The problem with the screws usually is not the screws but the screwdriver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
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I broke two, not one but two stanley #2 phillip head, magnetic tipped screw drivers just trting to remove them. I had these drivers for seven years and they had never failed me until now. I literally broke the tips off, willing to bet a COLD BEER they were at least torqued down to 75+ ft lbs crazy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
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Dave, got the part this evening and proceeded to install, worked like a charm, good call, three hours later l had a complete and clean gold wing idling at 750 rpm. going to test drive it tomorrow and if all goes as planned she will carry me to Fayetteville Arkansas. Thanks Dave
 
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