May be the kill switch??? Sound like what my bike was doing. Try this: Start the bike and then touch the top of the kill switch. Doing this to mine would shut the bike off. Also sometimes just a little movement of the kill switch between the on and off position would also shut the bike off. I have had the kill switch replaced twice on my 2007 bike under the warranty.
ok pulled the plugs all 6 of them. everyone was black. fouled out. any more ideas? put new ones in an still runns normal till it hits operational temp then drops to .5 on tach and starts to lopeand chug.
Wha kinda output are you getting from the O2 sensors?
It kinda sounds like the thing will run fine in the "open loop" map as it warms up, but then starts struggling when it should be getting into closed loop -- Fouled or clouded O2 sensors can reduce the output signal leading the computer to set thing very rich to compensate for the lower than expected O2 voltage (hopefully, you've not been cleaning your airbox with a silicone product -- Armor-all or the like)
yes I have been riding with the Harley guy's they are fun to tease. Highway speeds it runs normal for a while then sputters loses power for a second or two then runs normal again. Have replaced the Map,ITA,PAR valve. last year maybe the o2/fuel sensors and the baro are bad?
UP DATE: Took her to the shop for diagnostics, nothing wrong with sensors. No codes. Shop stated that maybe the fuel pressure regulator was not working correctly. Has anyone looked at and figured out the PAR system? What does the reed valve do and if stuck would they let more air into intake stroke?