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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am new to Goldwings but not to riding. I have a Yamaha Road Star and Royal Star Venture.
The question I have is when I am on the motorcycle it seems to shift fine between 1st and 2nd, but when I try to put in neutral it seems hard to get into neutral. Is this normal for an 06 GL 1800 or is there a clutch adjustment to make it easier to find neutral when stopped?
Thanks
Kent
 

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Welcome to the forum Kent
Has the Dot 4 fluid been changed out yearly in the clutch and brake systems?
If not the slave cylinder may be filled with gunk that only a take apart and clean the slave and master cylinders then flush and bleeding will correct. I have seen it on my bike as my friend that had it before me had been sick for 3 years. The dot 4 was brownish red in the master cylinder and the slave cylinder was leaking fluid out through the seal. I have seen it on other bikes too.
It would also help to flush the motor with a qt of marvel mystery oil, drain out a qt of engine oil and refill with MMO, ride a ride of 200-300 miles, 1 ride, to get the motor fully hot to loosen the gunk, then while hot change the oil and filter to flush out the gunk. Then new oil and filter. Are you using Delo 400 15w40 oil? Most here use it and many say shifting is quieter and easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The motor has just been rebuild as there was as 5th gear whine and all the parts associated with the 5th gear were replaced. I presume that requires a motor rebuild.
The odometer shows 26K. It only has maybe 30 miles on the motor.
I bought it from Rome GA so I can't just go and show it to the rebuilder.
Also there is too much snow here to get it out and ride. Oh yeah.... did I mention that it is a newly built trike?
Thanks
 

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I have a 2004 I bought new and I have always had a little bit of a problem getting the bike into neutral. I find it easier to find neutral if I try finding it from second instead of first.

I have no problems shifting the bike with the clutch pulled in to any gear I want, just neutral. The bike does not jerk or lunge like it would if the clutch was not fully disengaged. Go to the dealer and try another wing. If it feels the same then you have nothing to worry about. That's what I did and all 3 of the bikes at the dealer felt the same to me.

Henry
 

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Welcome:waving:SMSgt
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks all, I'll just take more time and maybe get used to it. I really haven't even driven it. There is too much snow from the back garage to the street o chance taking it out, I'd probably get stuck in the snow.
Anyway I look forward to being part of the Goldwing crowd.
Sethan12, that is some good looking paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Clutch finally working

OK so I took the Wing apart and bled the clutch. It took some time because it was just a slow process, lots of air in the system:shock:. Then I heard a little wush and then fluid flowed and the clutch suddenly became firm :). All I can suppose it that there was some kind of blockage that didn’t allow the clutch fully disengage. Anyway now things work fine, I think.:praying:
 

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OK so I took the Wing apart and bled the clutch. It took some time because it was just a slow process, lots of air in the system:shock:. Then I heard a little wush and then fluid flowed and the clutch suddenly became firm :). All I can suppose it that there was some kind of blockage that didn’t allow the clutch fully disengage. Anyway now things work fine, I think.:praying:
NO blockage at all...AIR is compressable while the brake fluid is NOT. That simple. With the air in there you were compressing the air some "before" the clutch would move. May I suggest that you drain it and refill it with new stuff. NOTE: if air can get into the system so can "water"...! And this becomes back news very fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Missed my point

Nova
I think you missed what I was saying. I fixed it. I think there was some type of blockage because of the way it bled with the Mighty Vac. I would pump the Mighty Vac up to 20 and watch it slowly bled down to 10 even with the bleed valve out a full turn, so I know that there should have been fluid flowing but there wasn't. I saw the change in the fluid as it went from old and dirty to clean and fresh. There was an instantaneous change in the operation when the wush came and the fluid flowed freely. And the master cylinder emptied. So I put more clean fluid in the master cylinder and bled the system out normally with the mighty vac.
Now everything seems to be in fine order.
Thanks for the input.
 

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The third post you said the motor was rebuilt, but nothing on if the fluid was changed yearly from new, that being it it was the 6 year old fluid in it still there would be gunk in the master cylinder and the slave cylinder blocking the flow and also binding the piston from operating properly. If you didn't pull the slave cyl, and clean it out, you may still have more problems later as flushing alone will not get the gunk out.

Glad you have it up for now. If it looses pressure you know what you'll have to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll have to do some research on rebuilding the slave cylinder. I haven't seen anything on that but it would probably be a good idea.
Thanks
 

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I'll have to do some research on rebuilding the slave cylinder. I haven't seen anything on that but it would probably be a good idea.
Thanks
Rebuilding that would be the same as doing a car brakes cylinder...the old style that has drum brakes. You will need a hone it out just like a car drum brake cylinder...and then all new rubber cups for the inside...and so on.
 

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I have never heard of a GL1800 engine having to be "rebuilt" just to go a transmission repair. With your milage, I would doubt the engine was much more than removed, transmission repair and engine reinstalled.
Great that you found the issue getting into Neutral. I have found that if anything.... the GL1800 is most easy to get into neutral. So much so that it sometimes does this when shifting between 1st and 2nd! Have to be sure not to ghost shift there.

Corventure Dave
 
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