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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought an '06 1800 with 29,000 miles on it in California. It ran fine on the way home, about 400 miles and for three hundred or so around here. I did notice a slight rubbing or swishing sound once in a while, not very loud and not all the time. I put the bike on the centerstand in my garage and ran it through the gears and get a rough rattling sound at an indicated 70mph in 4th and 5th. Somewhat less in lower gears. There's a little bit of roughness or vibration with the wheel spinning on the center stand, no sight of it when it's on its wheels.
I though it was in the final drive so I changed it out with a final that had 90 miles on it. I also pulled the drive shaft and inspected the U-joint. Fired it up and still had the noise. I drained the engine oil and ran it through some filter paper but saw no metal. Cut open the oil filter and it was clean, no metal.
Our local Honda shop doesn't seem to be able to do much with the GW especially something that might be in the transmission. I suspect the problem is either in the clutch or transmission although it shifts smoothly.
Anyone ever have something like this? I really am stumped with this one. Don't want to pull the engine and split the case but looks like it might have to be done. But not by me. Getting too old and tired for that.
 

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My first thought is the clutch and I wonder if you have any clue if the clutch has been changed or tampered with by PO or previous dealerships.

I was wondering if it could be a simple not centering the clutch on the back plate on reinstalling.

My reason is that if the sensation is in higher gears when the engine is at lower rpm then the issue is more pronounced.

Last thought is is it the rear tyre balance.
 

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Could it maybe be the rear brake dragging slightly? Has it had the recall done on the auxiliary master cylinder? A gear rattle when running in gear on the center stand is common in 1800s and nothing to worry about. Both my 08 and 10 make a noise like a washing machine in neutral especially when cold and on fast idle. Does it go away if you pull in the clutch?
 

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With the rear wheel off the ground the drive shaft and final drive gearing lack resistance and often sound 'clunky'. Trying to diagnose a noise by running up the rpm's with the rear wheel off the ground isn't the best way. You might have a problem…. but don't diagnose it this way.
 

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With the rear wheel off the ground the drive shaft and final drive gearing lack resistance and often sound 'clunky'. Trying to diagnose a noise by running up the rpm's with the rear wheel off the ground isn't the best way. You might have a problem…. but don't diagnose it this way.
Well put...there's no load on anything. I don't know why, but 06-10 Wings do have some noticable noise at lower rpm which I suppose you could describe as a 'swishing or rubbing'. I've noticed it myself and had several owners (some of whom had earlier wings) comment on it also.

The 1800 tran problems I've fixed (just a couple) were obviously bent shift forks and manifested itself in a very noticable and reliable clunk a second or two after a very lazy shift into second at low speeds. Note that neither one would 'pop' out of any gear at higher rpm, which is THE traditional symptom of a bent shift fork.

Presumedly, you think the noise is coming from the rear end. Are you sure? I come across a maligned left front fork once in a while (left rotor rubs on the caliper bracket). I see warped front rotors occasionally too...the odd part is they don't tend to make the lever pulsate as much as other bikes, making them hard to notice.
 

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I think Paul mentions that he ran the engine with the driveshaft and UJ removed, unless I read his post wrong. If they were removed, that rules out the drive or rear end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It turns out to be the old sad story. The problem is definitely in the transmission. I let the old engine oil sit over night and stuck a few samples under my microscope and can definitely see metal, both what looks like copper or bronze (shifter forks? Bushing?) and brite metal particles as well. So my effort of replacing the final drive per the Honda dealer's mechanic was a waste of time and money on my part. The worst news is that as I tore down the bike to change the final I found lots of places where some clod had been working on the bike. A couple of stripped out screws, some fasteners missing several little rubber pieces that hold on the manifold covers, etc. Pretty good indication of someone who shouldn't be allowed to hold a wrench has been working on the bike. Unfortunately none of this was visible without dismantling the bike and the problem with the noise wasn't there when I test rode the bike and brought it back from CA. I don't know what I'm going to do about it, I'd have transport the bike 300+ miles or so to take it to a dealer who might be able to handle the job but I'm not sure I want to throw any more good money after bad. I'm seriously thinking of parting this thing out. This is the second 1800 I've had that's been at least partly butchered by previous owners. Why these idiots think they're capable of working on anything mechanical is beyond me.
 

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That is very sad news Paul. :sadguy:

Is there a member, or members near to you that could give you a hand if you choose to fix it? I know it wouldn't be out of your capabilities to repair it, all be it the physical side may be tough.
It is a shame when things aren't exactly what they seem.
 

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This is the second 1800 I've had that's been at least partly butchered by previous owners. Why these idiots think they're capable of working on anything mechanical is beyond me.

Some dealers are not much better Paul. A GWOCGB friend of mine and owner of a 2007 model had 5th gear fail. He paid over £3,000 to a well known main dealer here in the UK to have it fixed. When he got the bike back, there were lots of electrical things not working, connectors unplugged etc. The worst thing was the starter motor was sluggish, and the dealer told him it would bed in after a few miles. The exhaust was a bit smoky also, burning some oil.

The really bad news was that the dealers mechanic had broken a piston ring when putting the engine back together. The broken ring was causing the piston to jam and make the starter turn over slowly. The broken ring also severely damaged the cylinder wall beyond repair, ie the engine was scrap.

The good news is that the dealer made good on this by fitting a brand new engine at his own cost. But it goes to show how not only previous owners can bodge a bike. Bodgers also work for some main dealers. :sadguy:
 

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I can easily see how that could happen, but that doesn't excuse the mechanic for not catching his mistake. It's difficult to assemble the cases and takes two mechanical people even with the special ring compressors and piston bases. Without those it's a risk breaking a ring. the cases are so close together when the piston ass'y and cylinder are fit there's little room for the 'small screwdriver' technique so you're kind of working blind.
 

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I can easily see how that could happen, but that doesn't excuse the mechanic for not catching his mistake.
Absolutely correct. Had to have known there was a problem but gave it back to the customer anyway. Speaks volumes about that Dealership.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've had the case open on a four cylinder 'Wing and really don't want to do the job on this engine. I salute those here who've replaced innards on the sixes but it's not for me anymore. Maybe ten years or so ago but not anymore. This getting old really isn't helpful. Gotta decide what to do here. I'm leaning toward selling the bike for parts but if I could find a reasonably priced used engine I'd try a swap. I think I'll get out of the motorcycle hobby if I don't get this one running again. It'll take a good bit of thinking about what I really want to do with it.
 

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I already scoured Ebay for a used engine for ya, but the only two that came up were, typically, here in the UK. Normally I would expect it to be the other way round.
Of course, this site is as likely to throw up a replacement from some kind member, as much as anywhere else. :)

If I lived a few thousand miles closer, I would be round in a shot to help you with it, but sadly not. :sadguy:

Are you going to at least be able to put fresh oil in her and ride on for now?:?
 

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A lot of good parts that could be salvaged from that one, might be worth thinking about. :)
Might well recoup much of the price in selling parts that are left off. :claps:
 

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It might need new seals though.
 

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Buying a 'fire sale' engine like that seems like more work and hassle to me than just fixing the engine you have. The parts you need to fix your bike probably aren't all THAT expensive. It's the labor that costs ya. Aside from the sheer volume of parts removal (it's a marathon) and with purchase of a few special tools, an 1800 isn't that hard. I'd do an 1800 over a 1500 any day of the week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the suggestions guys. After swapping the final drive and straightening some other junk one of the POs did on this bike I don't really want to replace the engine and feel less inclined to overhaul this one. Been there done that and swore I'd do that no more.
 

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Then parting out may be the way forward and if you get down to the engine left, maybe you could get that done by someone else and sell that on after.

Plenty more fish in the sea when it comes to replacement bikes. :)
 

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Absolutely correct. Had to have known there was a problem but gave it back to the customer anyway. Speaks volumes about that Dealership.
I know a lot of people on this forum had mothers that were scared by dealers while pregnant with them, so I won't debate the advantages of taking your bike to the dealership.
BUT. The fact that the bike was released with a concern falls on the technician. I know, because I'm a technician. I had it last, it's my responsibility. If I tell the service manager it's fixed, it better damn well be fixed. This speaks volumes about the character and work ethic of the tech.
The fact that the dealership stepped up and made it right, speaks volumes for the integrity of the dealership.
 
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