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On my 2002 GL1800, my right saddlebag does not open (consistently). I took the cover off the mechanism in the trunk, and I can see that the lever mechanism seems to be worn and sort of wobbles instead of turns. The wobble stops it from putting enough pressure on the cable and pop the latch. Pretty sure this is the problem, if I push a screwdriver on it (removing the wobble), it opens every time.

If you have never looked at the mechanism, you will NEVER be able to follow that logic. But here are few easier? questions

I can not find that latching mechanism on any of the on-line OEM parts vendors. Does anyone know if it can be bought on-line, or even at honda. Also, since it has the elctric motors for the automatic trunk opener on the key fob integrated into it, I bet it is really expensive!! Does anybody know what the price might be?

Last question, It looks like I have to remove the entire trunk to remove the latching mechanism, does anyone know this to be true, and how much effort is it to remove the trunk -- seems like an awfull lot of effort to fix the saddlebag mechanism. Maybe I will just stop using the saddlebag.
 

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Wow -- Thanks, I was just about to order $180 part to fix it. The forum has definitely returned the price I paid for it!!!:action:
 

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Some more info -- the tech bulletin did not allow the dealer to repair it after the warranty. It only discussed the proper way to fix it. Which for any bike prior to 2004 is to replace the entire lock unit.



I bought one from ebay for $120. Have not installed it yet, but according to the service manual, I have to remove the trunk molding and the lower trunk parts and then I can get it out and replace it.



I will let you all know how it goes. Is there anybody out there who has done it -- Any advice?
 

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Well, I got around to putting in the controller last weekend. It was pretty straightforward, take off the molding around the trunk (screws inside the trunk) Remove the bottom half of the trunk (screws inside the trunk and screws in the recess exposed after removing the molding) and then you can remove the bolts that hold the controller and the handles in, the screws that hold the top of the controller in and the controller is free.
It took less than an hour, went back together with no problem and fixed the problem -- always gratifying.
 
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