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Hi there!! New to the forum, and just purchased a 2005 GL1800. I want to bolt a tender to the battery, and found that one of the four passenger handrail bolts, that I believe also hold the seat in place, is stripped. I have tools, but not something I can remove a stripped bolt with. Anyone have any suggestions??

Thanks very much!!
 

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:waving:Welcome and Hello . Congratulations on the new bike . I dont have an 1800 so I am stepping out on a limb here and thinking the seat mounts similar to the 1500 seat . 2 bolts on each side thru the hand grab bars . I have seen both hex head bolts and allen heads on the the 1500 . If its hex head capscrews I would try six point sockets . If a metric socket slips then try an sae socket , same for allen heads try both SAE and metric .



Ummm did you mean the threads are stripped and the bolt will not screw out of place ? Thats a little tougher . If the bolthead is recessed in the grab bar its going to be hard without some possible damage . I would try and cut the foam handle skin and get to where I could grab it with some ViseGrips.



Thats all I can think of without actually seeing the problem bolt . Best of luck .
 

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Steel bolt threaded into aluminum is tender.

You might try wedging with a wood or plastic door wedge from a hardware store. A few $$ buys a wedge pack. Need lots of pressure to force the bolt back as you unscrew.

Hammer the wedges carefully between the seat and the handle. Carefully back out the bolt. You will need more wedges as the bolt backs out. Once the bolt is out far enough, clamp a Vise Grip on the socket head and continue working it out.

With it out install the correct Heli Coil threaded insert back it the stripped hole. The instructions will tell you what drill to use and the kit comes with the tap to provide threads to receive the coil insert. The insert is made of Titanium. Any of the other three bolts, install the Heli-Coils in them too. The seat comes off quite often so the bolts will wear the threads.

Hope this works.

Let us know how you progress.

Oh, WELCOME TO THE SITE GOSTRIDER too.
 

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Thanks! Yes, they're 6mm allen screws and are in the passenger grab rails. You're saying a may be able to fit a socket over it? Yes, the threads in the allen screw are stripped. Whoever removed the screa before me stripped the heck out of it. I bought some replacement screws from "Wingstuff.com". That are pointed as I hear those screws are tricky to line up when putting the seat back on. Point of that is it doesn't matter if the stripped screw gets destroyed in the process. I'm just nervous about damaging the grab rail.

Gonna try the socket thing though...thanks again very much!
 

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Sorry to hear about the stripped bolt. Maybe you can take it to a machine shop or a local dealer and they can get it out for you. Please investigate it further before you start cutting stuff up and doing more damage.

Second, you don't have to remove the seat to bolt on a battery tender. Just remove the left side battery cover by pulling it with your fingers. That lets you access the battery and fuses. Just bolt the tender leads on the battery and run the pig tail out the hole in the side cover is what I did. It's convenient and since that back part of the cover is dark grey it is almost invisible.
 

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Thanks Longboater!! It's the allen threads that are stripped though. The screw is in there nice and tight. Maybe a blow torch?? Just kidding! I need to get this battery tender attached though....

Thank you!!
 

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John, thank you!! I wondered if you could access the battery without removing the seat!! The left side cover just pops off??

Thank you!!
 

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I'm unclear on this. Is it the actual hole the allen wrench fits into? Or the threads? If it is the allen hole in the head of the bolt, then it's easier in my opinion. Trust me on this one! I used a drill to drill out a round hole in the normally hexagon head. Then, I took an Easy-Out bolt removal bit and a adjustible wrenc to back out the bolt. If it is the threads, you got different problems. An Easy-Out may bust it loose, but I'd spray it with some PB Blaster, or Liquid Wrench, and let her soak a while. Then, I'd do the same procedure as above. Drill it out in the head, to make room for the Easy-out, and go at it. The trick is using the proper size drill and extractor bit. They are uaually labeled with the right sise bit to use. I also have had great results from using those "Grabit" kits. Around 12 bucks for the medium sise kit. Same deal, but comes with several size bits. You chuck them in a drill that has reverse, (SE drill?LOL), and one end of the bit is the drill bit, and the other end is the Easy-Out thingy. I use mine in a drill driver that is an impact type. Works for me. Good luck with it all. I don't like steel bolts set in aluminum. Easy to crossthread, and or completely strip em out. jimsjinx
 

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Jdvorchak...my hero! Feel kind of dumb not realizing those side panels popped off so easy like my old Kawasaki KZ1000 police bike!!! Popped right off and..imagine that..there's the battery! Bolted the tender on in just moments.

Thank you very much for your help!!!
Mark
Ghostrider9880
 

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Jimsjinx..thank you. Its my piss poor explanation. Its the hole, not the threads. I think of the allen shape in the head of the bolt as "threads" as well. I put the 6mm allen in and it won't "grab" to loosen the bolt. I'll probably have to drill it. Just thought there might be a trick I was not aware of. As you can see, I was not even aware the darn side panel would just pop off!!!

Thanks!!
 

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There are different styles of easy-outs for allen head bolts, some folks have had success with an odd sized TORX bit. You may even be able to work/tap in a 1/4" allen, it's only about .015 >.020" larger than the 6mm... :gunhead:
 

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Sooner or later you're going to have to remove the seat.

Those passenger grab handles are $53 each from HDL, so removing the cross threaded bolt without destroying one of them is kind of important. As you have seen, they are recessed within the grab handle and not easy to access. I think I'd try Shooter's idea and try driving an oversized allen wrench or torx driver into what is left of a hole.

Once they are out and the seat is being removed, watch for the rubber spacers hidden in the seat, there's one surrounding each seat bolt. They tend to bounce on the floor and roll into some hidden position in the garage.

I use a philips screwdriver aided by a flashlight to align the seat bolt hole with the mating threaded hole before inserting the bolt, and those rubber spacers can be secured in place on the seat with a wrap of electrician's tape.
 

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Use a Dremmel type tool with a small grinder head to clean out and enlargethat allen bolt to the next larger bit size.
 

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One thing you might try is to use an impact wrench with a set of 3/8" drive Allen bits. Available cheaply at Harbor Freight.A bit of valve grinding compound on the Allen bit will also help it get a grip. Use an electric or airimpact driver and lean hard against it to keep the pressure on the bolt head. Be sure not to push the bike over, a helper on the other side would help. Impact drivers often will break bolts loose that nothing else does due to the shocks they apply to the bolt. If the 6mm won't hold use a slightly larger bit and grind a very slight taper on it. That may help the bit wedge into the bolt head. I wouldn't try to drill the bolt head out because you'd probably need to drill its full length which is very difficult. As a last resort you could use a drill bit the size of the bolt shank and drill the head of the bolt off then pry the seat away from the frame and get a hacksaw blade between the frame and seat and cut off the bolt. You'd still have the shank in the frame but without the seat in the way you could drill that out and install a helicoil. One thing I always do is to put a bit of aluminum anti-seize on anysteelbolt threads that go into aluminum.
 

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Both Exavid and Jimsjinx have great ideas. At work we have a lot of stainless steel allens that screw into aluminum baseplates. Typically we cannot get to the heads from the sides so when one of the allens starts to round out we use an easy out to remove it.

I would use an easy out that fits into the allen head. Make sure it is large enough to grab the sides of the hole. Once you get it out check the threads in the frame to make sure they are OK. You may have to run a tap through them to straighten them out if the bolt is locking up so tight you round out the allen head trying to get the bolt out.

Henry
 

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I forgot to mention, if you have an impact wrench give the bolt a couple shots in a tightening direction, not a lot of hammering just a short shot. Sometimes tightening a galled bolt will break it loose.
 

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exavid wrote:
One thing I always do is to put a bit of aluminum anti-seize on any steel bolt threads that go into aluminum.

[/quote]


Right on with that one.
 

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It's the head of the bolt is worn. Get a 7mm socket type allen tool and a socket extension and tap it into the bolt head as far as it will go. That should let you unbolt it.
 

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Great advice above! And.... don't overtighten the seat bolts when they are reinstalled. They need not be much more than hand tight.
 

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. Get a flatended drift punch, that just fits the hex hole, and give it a sharp rap or 2 with a 4 lb hammer. It should come right out, then.
.
. Some homo sapiens shouldn't ever be allowed to use tools, air or hand tools.. 10 lbs torque with antisieze is enough.
 
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