[StraightWings]

A client send the message about whether I had a Hazard switch available for sale, and in response I wrote back the time tested rejuvenation method for those fiddly push-switches:

>>>>

That is a common occurrence. They never are maintained regularly, which they need to be. They are predominantly the switch-type that gets dried out and useless
because the operate on a slide-rail or push-rod that triggers a spring operated catch.

Taking them apart is a nightmare, and very rarely can be put back into proper operating status.

I have corrected 50 of those if 1, and only three or four were past retrieval. Patience is key.

The problem lies is two factors:

1. Typically it is ancient Honda grease which hardens over time, and
2. That binds the little copper plate that is on a tiny spring (which is the real PITA when you disassemble the switch), and prevents the push-button flange from engaging or disengaging.

Where are you? If you are close by, bring it over, and I’ll almost assuredly get it working without disassembly unless you have monkeyed with it and broken it or bent the lock-plate internally.

If you are not close by, then you need two things:

1. A can of Nu-trol contact cleaner (by MG Chemicals) which will, with a very liberal spray into the opened switch housing and into the push rod runner of the push-switch (without removing the switch from the housing), which you will be able to see with the housing opened (no need to remove it from the bike, just get the back-panel off the suspension control panel, or the control switch off the handle bar). Inject the Nu-trol, which will basically ‘melt’ the old grease off. You may have to work the switch for a few minutes, and after pushing on it LIGHTLY for 10 or 15 tries, hit it with the Nu-trol again. At this point instead of simply pushing and releasing the button, push it in, and slide the thumb-finger sideways off the button to allow it to get full rebound off of that tiny spring. If it is stuck in, keep ‘snapping’ it like that, and it will almost certainly disengage after a while. If it is not engaging, keep doing it, and it eventually should engage. The VERY FIRST TIME it disengages (or engages) is the time to use…..

1. A shot from a spray-can of EZ lube, (ask me where to get it if you can't find it) which is a super-fine turbine lubricant, which cleans oxidization off as well as lubricating. If you haven’t got any, then get a can is very fine lube which has cleaning properties, and try it. DO NOT push that lever back in until you have firstly again sprayed it with Nu-trol, then lube. Then do it lightly again. You may have to do the ‘snap’ trick a few times until it frees up fully. Once it is freely operating you are good to go. Maintain it regularly and it will stay good.

I finish the job off with a thicker spray-in grease, Protec 21.

Save yourself a switch, and then do the same to ALL switches on the bike, same method. Do it every year, and you don't even have to expose the switches: blow the two items in around the switches from the exterior, (Nu-trol to clean the contacts, lube to take care of the mechanical aspects) it'll 'walk' into the switch. Your switches will last many years longer. The above are my favorite time-tested products, but any good NON-DRYING contact cleaner, and any fine but excellent spray-in lube (NOT DW-40) will do the trick if used prior to the switch sticking. <<<<<<

PS: The client wrote back next morning and reported the switch was back into good operation.

 

[AZgl1800]

looked up the Nu-Trol and at $39 a 12oz can, I won't be buying any of it.

I have used CRC 2-26 for many years and it performs the same service, and is available in any big box store or car parts house.,
at rought $6 a can when I bought the last one

use it like you described, and all is well..... it works fantastic for key locks also

just looked for it, $4.21 at Home Depot
CRC 2-26 at home depot

 

[StraightWings]

Good thoughts, AZ.

I'm not selling a product here, just enlightening those who ignore their switches. Find what works for you. Don't skimp on price, you generally get what you pay for. CR 2-26 is $30CAD out the door here, IF you can find it anywhere but Amazon. And yes, if I didn't have Nu-trol, which I have used since cleaning RAM cards and motherboard slots in '93 (control cleaner, not the 'leaves no residue stuff") for considerably less than mentioned, I'd be using the CR. Ride safe.

 

[AZgl1800]

the Nu-Trol is a better product,
for myself, the CRC product has done all I needed

 

[snowmoer]

I have found that the only true way to fix the sticking locking switches is to take them apart. Clean out the old sticky grease and replace with new dielectric grease. You also clean up any corrosion on the contacts. Any spray product is just a band aid. It won't be long that they will be sticking again. I cleaned the sticky switches on my 1500 this way. They worked for 10 years without any further cleaning when I sold the bike. For the dry switches, speed up and down, volume up and down, is to spray them with CRC electrical contact cleaner. I don't remember the last time I sprayed these switches after using the CRC on my 1800. They are still trouble free.

It works for me.