What type of oil are you using? Any additives? How long since clutch fluid was changed?
gumbyred
gumbyred
GL1800 Trouble in Oklahoma
Okay, here is the problem. Recently replaced the fork seals and bushings and steering stablizer bar and drove it home. After getting it home (and it rode GREAT) decided to go ahead and change the oil to get it ready for the riding season. Attempted to ride it up onto a couple of 2x6's as it's a trike and the oil pan won't fit under it unless it's raised up. While trying to climb a mere 3 inches the clutch began to chatter and it would not pull the grade. Tried this several times as l could not believe it would not climb this small incline.When this failed the third time l pulled it out and went to drive it around the block. It acts like the clutch is slipping, at 3k rpm its still only goes about 15 miles pers hour. It apparently shifts okay but goes no where. l just changed the oil thinking that it might help, but it did not and l noticed that it will roll, in gear and when l started it in third gear the bike continued to run despite, the clutch being out and no brake, What the heck happened, and please don't tell me the clutch went out, l've had enought bad news lately. The drive shaft shelled out last year.
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It does sound like the clutch is slipping. The causes could be the plates need changing, or using the wrong oil, or the slave cylinder isnt releasing properly. Does sound odd to have come on that quickly so I would check the action of the slave cylinder first.
Check the trike drive line first, a clutch going out on an 1800 is indeed rare.
using honda oil. the bike is running in any gear but going nowhere with or with out the brakes on. rpms increase when you squeeze in the clutch, so something is engaging checked the drive shaft while it was running but it was not turning. when i first tried, you could not move the bike unless you engaged the clutch but now it makes no difference. did find a bolt head under the bike, like it had been sheered off but dont know where it came from
Don't know how the make the driveshaft for the trike but does it maybe have a shear bolt in it? That would explain the bolt head and why it doesn't move. Can you see the front part of the shaft where it connects to the trans to see if it is turning there?
Makes sense considering the OP says shifts fine and the driveshaft was done last year. Could be a bad repair. What is the mileage on the trike?Check the trike drive line first, a clutch going out on an 1800 is indeed rare.
75K in mileage. Last year the front output shaft shelled out going 65 mph down the highway. Thankfully the shaft did not hit the pavemant. Motor trike made everything good, except for loosing the entire month of April being down. There was a lot of torque on the rear end trying to climb up the 2x6 's. Could be a shear bolt. The shaft is NOT turning while the bike is in any gear. They are so low to the ground anyway that its nearly impossible to see anything .
Is it possible to pull the lower right engine side cover that you use to check the oil to look in at the back of the engine at the drive shaft?
http://www.junkmaster.com/kj5ix/MTServiceManual.pdf
Hopefully this helps also.
http://www.junkmaster.com/kj5ix/MTServiceManual.pdf
Hopefully this helps also.
okay this is the third time l have attempted to post this. took the cover off and the driveshaft is turning when the bike goes forward. stiil does not pull down or die when put in third gear and holding the brakes. as a matter of fact it runs at about 550 rpm and increases to the normal 750 when you engage the clutch
You've narrowed it down to the rear of the drive shaft or the rear differential/axle, not the clutch.okay this is the third time l have attempted to post this. took the cover off and the driveshaft is turning when the bike goes forward. stiil does not pull down or die when put in third gear and holding the brakes. as a matter of fact it runs at about 550 rpm and increases to the normal 750 when you engage the clutch
Are you sure that the clutch is engaging completely when the lever is released ? It sounds to me like you may have a slave cylinder that is gummed up with hardened fluid not allowing the piston to move freely, or there may be blockage in the master cylinder on the handlebar not allowing the pressure in the system to be relieved back to the reservoir when you release the lever. When is the last time the clutch fluid system was flushed and cleaned? It should be done every two years. Same goes for the brake system. If it's been a while, you will need to remove and rebuild the slave, or at least do a total clean out. This is the most likely and easiest thing to check first. I think if you had broke something in the drive system, you would have most likely heard it. Just my humble opinion! Good Luck... Keep us posted.
Thanks guy, both great ideas and after to speaking to a nwing mechanic of nearly thirty years he too seems to think slave cyclinder. l know when to call in to pros so she is loaded up and ending out to a shop tomorrow .Will post the results as he said in all his years he has never had to replace a clutch cluster except when told to by a customer who told him he was being paid to do what the customer wanted. Said they are good for 250k easy.
Thanks guy, both great ideas and after to speaking to a nwing mechanic of nearly thirty years he too seems to think slave cyclinder. .
I am going to stick my neck out here and say no way is it the slave cyl.
Dave, your advice has always been spot on and baled me out before, so whats your opinion
You state that the driveshaft is turning when the trike is moving forward. Does it turn when the trike is not moving forward. I would block the wheel and rev it up in gear and see if the driveshaft is turning while the trike is not moving. This will tell you which end to look at.okay this is the third time l have attempted to post this. took the cover off and the driveshaft is turning when the bike goes forward. stiil does not pull down or die when put in third gear and holding the brakes. as a matter of fact it runs at about 550 rpm and increases to the normal 750 when you engage the clutch
Okay, took it to a shop who kept it a month without cracking a nut, so l moved it to another shop. They found a small piece of metal in the clutch basket, which caused a serious of events that caused the plates to over heat and lock up. The entire basket was replaced and a week later (and several hundred dollars later) on the road again.
Thank you for coming back to put this thread to rest . I am sorry to hear you had to replace the clutch ,but glad your now able to enjoy the ride once again .
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