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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi:A newbie here,please have patience.
I have a 2003 Goldwing 1800 with a 2000 Hannigan Astro GT sidecar.
I took a trip to Canada's east coast in June of this year. About 8 hours down the hiway a fuse melted in the fuse box, changed fuse and continued on. Long storey short,I had a total of 4 fuses melted in the fuse box after the 2 week trip. Stopped at 3 shops to get them to have a look at it but no one had the time.Limped along as best we could to get home.When at home I ordered a new main wiring harness and installed it. When I turned the key on I noticed the F1 light was blinking at 2 long blinks and 4 short blinks and the wiring on the left was smoking ,so I turned off the key. Ordered a new left handlebar (switches) harness and installed it. Turned on the key and the new left handlebar harness was getting warm so I turned the key off. The sidecar has it's own fuse box for lights and there is a separate fusebox for the led lighting on the bike.This is where I am at now. Any magicians or miracle workers out there that could possibly shed some light on the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanx Jerry
 

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It's kind of strange the the fuse melted instead of blowing. Which fuse was it? Which wire in the left control harness was heating up? This would be where I'd start looking, the circuits involved.
 

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What do you mean by the fuse melted. Do you mean the exterior of the fuse melted? (the plastic part) If the plastic melted that is usually from high resistance. Normally it would be that the connection from the fuse box to the fuse is not good for whatever reason. Resistance builds heat. If the amperage is low enough the fuse will not blow. If the connection is poor the resistance makes enough heat to melt plastic.

What happened after you changed harnesses is very hard to say from a distance. Smoke is never good though.
 

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Welcome to the forum Jerry. Can you give more details on the wiring you replaced? Did you replace the Wings whole wiring harness because of the melted fuse?

Which circuit fuse was the one that kept melting? Do you have heated grips fitted?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Guy's
The orange wire with white stripe is the one that was melted in the left handle harness. Yes it was the plastic that was melted on the fuse. Yes I did replace the whole main harness because of you can't buy just the fuse box separately it's already wired into the harness and the old harness was all melted together. The main harness is ok but the handlebar harness I also replaced. The F1 light was blinking 2 long and 4 short. I know that is a code but I don't know what it is indicating. The main harness goes from the horns and spotlights, up through the steering column, under the gas tank and back to the top of the back fender.The left handlebar harness goes down the bar around the front of the steering column and over to the right side of the fairing to two of the larger plugs.
 

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Orange/white goes to the left front position light in the mirror, check the bulb and socket, it could be shorted.
Code 24 is the left O2 sensor heater circuit. Could be the sensor itself or a connection.
 

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Hi Jerry, and welcome at this great forum.
Have a look at my garage pic`s, and tell me... Does your bike look like mine?
We might have same problem, it sounds like :(
 

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Sounds like a nightmare. You didn't really post much detail (ie which circuit the original melted fuse protects). I'd be suspicious of your added accessories and related wiring. Some of the standard wiring on the 1800 is pretty small gauge.

I'd begin checking the current draw on the fuse protected circuits at your fusebox. Any circuit that draws more than 2/3 to 3/4 amperage of the rated fuse would be of concern to me. IE if a cirucuit protected by a 20 A fuse is drawing just under 20 A, it may not be enough to blow the fuse, but over an 8 hour period on a hot day may create enough heat to melt wiring insulation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi again all
dave0430 and terry630 your analysis on the wires in the left signal light wiring was right on Thanx again. dizzy, it was the "tail" fuse that kept melting.. When I finally got done with the main harness I noticed alot of these venders at these rallys use those blue plastic in line connectors or the blue "t" type, which in my humble opinion are good for aj4v>+)+(nothing) I started up the bike and let it run for 30 min. and no problems. All lights work and no fuses melted.
silverbull666
I think your problem is a little worse than mine, it looks like you are rebuilding yours.I feel sorry for you but you look like a man that likes a good challenge Do you have a top for that sidecar?
Thanx to all those who volunteered sugestions for my problem. Back on the road tomorrow
 

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Hi again all
When I finally got done with the main harness I noticed alot of these venders at these rallys use those blue plastic in line connectors or the blue "t" type, which in my humble opinion are good for aj4v>+)+(nothing)

Many vendors use the "Scotchlok" connectors and you are correct - they are not very good for long term use... When I do a splice like that I will strip the insulation back on the wire in question and then wrap the other wire around it, then solder it and either put shrink tubing over it or 3M 33+ electrical tape... I have never had an issue with a connection like that...

Les
 
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