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Looking for a new battery for Bike. But oddly, the AGM Yuasa says they ship the acid with the battery for the buyer to fill and charge.

I thought the AGMs were sealed and charged from the get-go.

Last battery was a cheapie gel battery which ran dry pretty quickly so I had to open it up and fill the cells with water. Second time I did that, (about a week ago) seems to have killed it. Or, maybe it was just its' time, as it was 18 months old.
Dennis, sorry I didn't see your request sooner! I wrote this back in April:

No better battery for the GL1200. I would not buy any other. They are made by East Penn in USA.
 

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To purchase a Deka, low cost, free shipping and no sales tax! Contact:
Richard Price
[email protected]
High-Tech Battery Solutions, Inc.
 

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02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
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$69.95 for a battery?
best I have seen.

 

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$69.95 for a battery?
best I have seen.
No, no, no don't buy an old school Yuasa, with the acid tank and fill up each cell! No, please don't!

Just spend another $22 and get the AGM. Do you know how many old bike and cars I've bought with battery acid stains? Way too many. I put these Deka AGM batteries in all our dirt bikes too and you can flip the bike, let it sit laying down while you eat lunch and it still works fine, doesn't leak even if you want to park it upside down.

Also the Deka AGM will last 4 years MIMIMUM, mine have always lasted 5-6 years and do nothing. The Yuasa stock battery or Asian mock-offs; 1-2 years on average, 2+ maybe if you baby them.

Again, this is the correct link:
  • CCA: 340
  • Capacity: 20 AH
  • Chemistry: AGM
  • Length: 8.13"
  • Width: 3.56"
  • Height: 6.38"
  • Weight: 15.5 lbs
 

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Dennis,I just replaced my battery that lasted 5 years, near to the week,Auto Zone 109$ and in stock,,
AGM,320 cca
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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23,012 Posts
Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Looking for a Shindengen.
I've seen the aftermarket things last 5 minutes...literally.
 

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Dennis,
Have you done any troubleshooting? A bad ignition switch (high resistance) or a poor connection at the sense wire can cause the regulator to overcharge. Also if the regulator can not shunt off excess power because of a poor ground can cause the same issue. Hate to see you buy a new one and see the same issue. It can be a mistake to assume that high voltage at the battery must be a bad regulator.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Takke a wire and connect it from the battery positive to the black wire right at the regulator. Then check voltage again. Not to worry about 15.5 volts. It would take a toll over the course of a year or years but short term insignificant. See what you get when you jump the black sensing wire to the battery direct. A weak ignition switch connection etc. can cause that. There is a work around if that fixes the issue./ Good luck Dennis.
Okay, it has finally cooled off and I have a question...
Is the black wire to battery + correct? I want to make sure because it sounds like it will make sparks.

I'm afraid of sparks. ..o_O

Will 16g wire be big enough?
 

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Okay, it has finally cooled off and I have a question...
Is the black wire to battery + correct? I want to make sure because it sounds like it will make sparks.

I'm afraid of sparks. ..o_O

Will 16g wire be big enough?
Yes, black to battery + , it shouldn't make sparks and 16ga is plenty, it is just a sensing wire, no real load on it.
 

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Okay, so what will the meter show? What am I looking for?
Dennis,
The reg has to be able to sense the condition (voltage) of the battery. The reg needs to know this so it can decide what to do.

If the reg thinks the battery is up to par it will shunt off the extra current. Trouble is that , like a computer "garbage in equals garbage out.

If the black wire says the battery is low when in fact it is fully charged the reg will keep sending current to the battery and overcharge it.

If the black wire went from the battery directly to the reg that would be good but eventually would run the battery dead. So, the black wire passes through the ignition switch so it turns off with the key.

It is not unusual to have a voltage drop through an old ignition switch but most things can deal with a little less voltage. . The reg on the other hand will react to any voltage drop in the switch.

The easiest way to see if the sensor (black) wire is good is to jumper from battery positive right to the black wire at the reg.

Now you have gone around the ignition switch and any other connections.

The reg is sensing directly from the battery. If you compare the battery voltage with the jumper off and the battery voltage with the jumper on, they should be the same
IF all is well.

If battery voltage drops with the jumper connected then the sensor wire is giving the reg some bad info. That is somewhere in the bike the black wire is losing voltage.

If you do find an issue with the black wire check back for a Little help how to wire around the ignition switch using a simple inexpensive relay.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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23,012 Posts
Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Well now, with the wire attached, the meter reads 14.6 volts, + or -. And you're right, it bypasses the ignition switch.

However, without the jumper, it's charging 16 volts, + or -. So I've got it back on the charger and I'll do the test again, after it goes into float mode. It took some cranking to get it to start so I figure the battery may be down a bit.

So, it seems there is a discrepancy, but maybe not enough. Where are the grounds you refer to, Mike?
 
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