Crystal, Respectfully think you are thinking backwards. After working hard a battery will run down and voltage will start low and build as the alternator charges it. A half volt is splitting hairs. If all the grounds are not perfectly clean might account for that much. Someone somewhere added an extra green wire to the R/R to try to bring down voltage a bit Not sure if it helped.
Glass Matt Batteries.
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The Max-Tow Voltmeter I installed on my 1500 normally reads 12.9 -13.1 volts if you've just started it and it is recharging and then settles in around 13.8 going down the road. It has an undersized AGM battery in it, correct width and height but I have a piece of 1x6 board tucked in behind the battery to keep it from sliding around in the battery box.
I suspect the battery may be going out, It was in the bike when I bought it almost 4 years ago, who knows how old it is... a few weeks ago I went to start the bike and found it dead. Not "flat", though, voltmeter read about 11 volts on "ACC" but when switched to "ON" sunk to 8 volts. I put my 2/10/50 amp battery booster/starter on it for a few minutes on the "Start" setting and was shortly on my way.
Surprised to find the dead battery, it had only been a week since the bike was last ridden. I seldom bother with the battery tender in the summer when the bike gets ridden at least once a week. But I have it on the tender now. There's no parasitic draw on the battery beyond the OEM load, so the battery should be able to stand many weeks without battery tender (it has in the past) and still start the bike. The electronic voltmeter has a "sense" lead connected directly to the battery, but that draws nothing, the meter gets it operating power from the ACC terminals.
Since this incident the battery still starts the bike with gusto and vigor, so I guess it's OK for now, and I'm using the Battery Tender when parked. But going down like that in only a week leads me to think it's days are numbered....
I suspect the battery may be going out, It was in the bike when I bought it almost 4 years ago, who knows how old it is... a few weeks ago I went to start the bike and found it dead. Not "flat", though, voltmeter read about 11 volts on "ACC" but when switched to "ON" sunk to 8 volts. I put my 2/10/50 amp battery booster/starter on it for a few minutes on the "Start" setting and was shortly on my way.
Surprised to find the dead battery, it had only been a week since the bike was last ridden. I seldom bother with the battery tender in the summer when the bike gets ridden at least once a week. But I have it on the tender now. There's no parasitic draw on the battery beyond the OEM load, so the battery should be able to stand many weeks without battery tender (it has in the past) and still start the bike. The electronic voltmeter has a "sense" lead connected directly to the battery, but that draws nothing, the meter gets it operating power from the ACC terminals.
Since this incident the battery still starts the bike with gusto and vigor, so I guess it's OK for now, and I'm using the Battery Tender when parked. But going down like that in only a week leads me to think it's days are numbered....
As batteries age, they don't do so well with parasitic draw, like they did when new, or nearly so.
I am having that problem with my truck's battery.
the GPS uses a cigarette lighter plug in socket, and on my truck all 3 of the cigarette lighter sockets stay connected to the battery even with the Key Off.
I once left the GPS plugged in and did not use the truck for almost two months... the battery was down to around 8 volts? I had to use a Smart Charger to get it to charge back up... and now I use a Battery Tender on it in cold weather.
In warm weather, the solar charger does a good job.
that is bad, or good, depending on your viewpoint... For me, I like it, as the Solar Charger is easy to connect and keep the battery topped off.
I just have to remember to unplug the GPS when not travelling.
An update on the original thread. I bought the relay but haven't picked it up yet. I'm gonna need help installing it.
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My 1200 would show lower volts but climb slowly as the battery was recharged. It was OEM reg/rectifier & internal alternator.
The Trike with Compufire had a temperature compensating regulator that charged higher at a higher rate until warmed up, then it tapered back.
The slightly run down battery likes a charge. Once the battery is up, the charging system can cut back some. Many are now equipped with temp compensating regulators to taper back as the vehicle warms as it is intended the battery get a needed boost, but not continuously.
Maybe some of my Fords have TCRs? I never looked the specs up to see? I just know that some of them will start, then for a short way show higher than normal, then shortly drop back, usually within a mile or so. Now I'm curious.
Even my smart chargers charge at higher volts (I press button to see charging volts instead of charge state) until the battery is replinished, then they taper back.
My old '77 F150 with added volt meter will show just plain battery voltage, but it's not temp compensating, but as you say … it acts like the 1200.
I think the way it works is this, Say you live in Arizona and I live in Alaska in the winter. We both have dead batteries. We jump start our cars and take them for a long ride, Your car being in warm Arizona will level out at a lower voltage than my car in the bitter cold. Both cars will start charging at lower voltage them march up to the specified voltage. The maximum voltage in the car in Alaska will not change unless the temperature of the batteries electrolyte goes up.
The temperature compensation just allows a higher set point for voltage on cold batteries because they charge so much slower. Vice versa on a warm battery.
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121 Posts
The last two batteries I have used in my 1994 Gl1500 have been from Chrome Battery. This is the one I just bought in September. The last one went over 4 years and the only reason I replaced it was my battery tester said something was going bad and recommended replacement - not even sure what was wrong since the bike was fine but I figured I had gotten more than my money's worth. As you can see, under $65 with free shipping, arrives ready to go. I keep the scoot on a tender during the winter when not riding, so I'm sure that's helped. But a new battery every 4-5 years at $65 each is a good deal to me. They're out of Indiana and I believe they used to have the batteries made near Reading PA but not sure where they're made now. The latest ones now have a nut stop welded to the side terminals, making installation much easier than before. Good deal for sure.
![324259]()
Good price but is it a sealed battery? I like the idea of the sealed battery inside my bike. One less hose hanging out the bottom also but you are right. Any $65 battery that lasts that long is a good deal. 😎
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26,570 Posts
Yes it is, I too have bought from them.
YTX24HL-BS High Performance Power Sports Battery
12 V21AH252 WattsLead AcidNut and Bolt
www.chromebattery.com
Well, I have the relay, the pigtail, some of the clamp type wire connectors, some extra wire and a connector with a hole big enough to go on the hot connector on the solenoid. And I have the tools.
That poor bike may never run again... Wish it luck.
That poor bike may never run again... Wish it luck.
Well, the work has been done. I changed my mind about what connectors to use, and sprang for some more professional level wire strippers and crimp tools...
Unfortunately, the modification hasn't completely fixed the problem and the bike is still charging at 15+ volts. I put the battery back (it's been running in float mode for days) on the charger and will try again tomorrow.
I didn't hide the wires in case this happened and I had to undo it.
First pic: The battery connection with extra fuse.
![324509]()
Pic 2: The cut and tapped ignition wire and ground.
![324510]()
Pic 3: The relay.
![324511]()
Unfortunately, the modification hasn't completely fixed the problem and the bike is still charging at 15+ volts. I put the battery back (it's been running in float mode for days) on the charger and will try again tomorrow.
I didn't hide the wires in case this happened and I had to undo it.
First pic: The battery connection with extra fuse.
Pic 2: The cut and tapped ignition wire and ground.
Pic 3: The relay.
Not sure how to do that...?
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26,570 Posts
The voltage to the black wire that goes to the regulator. Is it getting full battery voltage.
I have changed to a new meter. Now the voltage at the battery is down to 14.8 volts.
If measured black wire to the + terminal of the battery it reads 0.6 volts. If measured to the - terminal, full 14.8 volts.
This is confusing to me
If measured black wire to the + terminal of the battery it reads 0.6 volts. If measured to the - terminal, full 14.8 volts.
This is confusing to me
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26,570 Posts
Me too, you are showing a .6 volt drop and yet full voltage to the sense wire. Is this shortly after start up or after it runs a while? It will probably drop some after everything warms up.
When you check from battery + to the black wire you say you get 0.6 volts. Is it possible the meter reads 0.6mV? (millivolts)
Don't you just hate those guys who never check back.
Okay, well...
I checked the car, to kind of get a read on the meter. 14.5 volts.
So I check the bike one more time and it's back up to 15+ volts. So...
I put it all back together and went for a 50 mile ride. Tomorrow I'll do the same and then check it again.
And just to rub my nose in it, where I mounted the relay is in the way of the document tray, so I'll need to find a different location for it, if I keep the mod.
I checked the car, to kind of get a read on the meter. 14.5 volts.
So I check the bike one more time and it's back up to 15+ volts. So...
I put it all back together and went for a 50 mile ride. Tomorrow I'll do the same and then check it again.
And just to rub my nose in it, where I mounted the relay is in the way of the document tray, so I'll need to find a different location for it, if I keep the mod.
Okay, still charging at 15 volts. What am I missing?
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