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Should I red anodize the outer rim only or the entire wheel?

  • 2. Do the entire wheel.

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I'm going to attempt making my rims and final drive cover look like anodized red aluminum using the Dupli-color Metalcast system. I cleaned up my back wheel which was in horrible shape from all of the black grease and brake dust that sat on the rim for a period of time from apparent neglect and I'm just not happy with the splotchy look that it left (likely from the chemicals in the wheel cleaner I used). It took three seperate cleanings to get the wheels ready.

Now I could try to polish them but thought what the heck, let's try to anodize them in red to compliment the color of the wing (Candy Red Spectra) and while I'm at it, lets do the final drive cover too. I may even do the brake calipers while I'm at it or just use brush-on red or gold caliper paint on those. This system puts a colored clearcoat on chrome surfaces but will also work on less shiny metals such as cast aluminum if you first scuff then apply Dupli-color ground coat before the Metalcast paint. See the Dupli-color Metalcast system in action in the YouTube video I've provided below...

[flash=425,344]http://www.youtube.com/v/N5k5n_TL1g8&feature=player_embedded#!&hl=en&fs=1[/flash]

I would like to hear your suggestions as to whether I should do just the outer of the wheel or the inside also. As you know, the outer portion of the outer ring is more of a smooth aluminum surface while the inside spoke portion and hub is more of a cast textured aluminum that's factory painted or powder coated grey. The grey portion of the wheel is in perfect condition so I'm thinking...leave that alone and just do the outer ring of the wheels...and of course the entire final drive cover. Any thoughts? I have included a poll above that will run for 5 days. That's the latest time I will be shooting paint. I really value everyone's input so please take the poll. I'm only going to get one shot at this.

I'll take before and after photos of my progression and post them in this thread.

I have also included a picture of a car rim that was done with the Dupli-color Metalcast as an attachment in this post. Visualize this same look on a red goldwing but with a lighter grey inner instead of the black as pictured. I think I like that look best but want to know what you think???
 

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Here is an entire motorcycle wheel done. Idk, I'm kinda liking this look!
 

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Here is the same wheel outside. It really pops out in the sun doesn't it?
 

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Just another ORF!
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They do look very nice when new! :cool:

You might want to ask them about how 'Chip Resistant' they are (colour wise)and get a written guarantee for it. :?
 

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Hey Kevin, you're a busy guy! I think I like just the outside with the red tint. The whole wheel like that is a little too much for my tastes. Of course my wife thinks all my taste is in my mouth. :ROFL:
 

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Dusty Boots wrote:
They do look very nice when new! :cool:

You might want to ask them about how 'Chip Resistant' they are (colour wise)and get a written guarantee for it. :?
Well DustyBoots, it is a tinted clearcoat. And I will keep them coated with a wheel protectant for lasting durability. And honestly, if they don't turn out well I'll just buy a newer set or just go with a set of chrome because I'm not happy with their present condition anyway. So I'm really looking at this with a "no lose situation" mindset. You know what I'm saying?
 

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Bellboy40 wrote:
Hey Kevin, you're a busy guy! I think I like just the outside with the red tint. The whole wheel like that is a little too much for my tastes. Of coarse my wife thinks all my taste is in my mouth. :ROFL:
Larry, I know what your saying about the too much red but keep in mind that I will have chrome rotor covers on the front. And I guess if I do go all red, at the rear maybe I should leave the final drive cover silver.

And what do wives know anyway? Tell her "honey, if you think I don't have taste, what does that say about me choosing you"?
:ROFL:
 

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I voted for the outer rim only…..

But I guess I just can't get past the idea that the bike doesn't run….. I'd be focused on that before spending money on pretty wheels. Or did I miss the post about how the new ECU worked great?
 

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Yup .... know what you're sayin, Kev. :grinner:

Only reason I made that comment is that I was going to get a set of red anodized metal brake lines (or was it aluminum billet air valves :stumped:) and when I asked that question, the reply I got was that they would chip and lose their colour eventually.

Don't know if/how they top coated the colour process of the item in question.

Just sayin.

I do like the look of them though. :thumbsup:
 

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rayworx wrote:
I voted for the outer rim only…..

But I guess I just can't get past the idea that the bike doesn't run….. I'd be focused on that before spending money on pretty wheels. Or did I miss the post about how the new ECU worked great?
Okay Ray, my wing is down for the next 10 days until I can get another ECU to test. Should I sit around and stare at it and wonder if this 1998 engine with only 5800 miles on it will ever run? I think not. I would rather be proactive and get some other things done on it while I wait on a part. And the wheel is off now so why not anodize it while its off? And as for spending money, the cost to do the red anodizing to these wheels is a whopping $17 per wheel. Any other questions? LOL! Just picking on ya. But I do like to be proactive and do not like to think in a negative way. It will run! And when it does, it will purrrrrrr like a cute little kitten who just had a lovely dish of warm milk.
 

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Dusty Boots wrote:
Yup .... know what you're sayin, Kev. :grinner:

Only reason I made that comment is that I was going to get a set of red anodized metal brake lines (or was it aluminum billet air valves :stumped:) and when I asked that question, the reply I got was that they would chip and lose their colour eventually.

Don't know if/how they top coated the colour process of the item in question.

Just sayin.

I do like the look of them though. :thumbsup:
I hear ya Dusty,

I researched this product quite extensively and it seems that the process is becoming increasingly popular and that the results are magnificent. There is a lot of information on this product on the internet and on YouTube. People are doing their valve covers, under the hood components, motorcycle tanks etc. It withstands up to 500 deg. F. Here is a quote from Dupli-Color's website about the Metalcast system...

"Dupli-Color[sup]®[/sup] Metalcast[sup]™[/sup] Anodized Color turns ordinary chrome pieces into a bright, transparent-colored metallic finish in an easy one-step process. Metalcast is a durable enamel finish that is oil, gas, and heat resistant to 500° F intermittently, making it ideal for interior, exterior, and high-heat applications under the hood. Specially formulated to work over properly prepared shiny, bare metal, and faux chrome-like surfaces."


Features & Benefits
  • Features EZ Touch[sup]®[/sup] Fan Spray Nozzle
  • Creates an anodized color effect
  • Dress up chrome or polished metal surfaces
  • Resistant to heat up to 500° F
  • Dry to touch in 30 Minutes / Handle in 1 Hour
  • Use on chrome automotive accessories

Success Stories


metal specks and metalcast 1982 xj550
by JON SPONAUGLE the bikes paint was dieing due to age and exposure to gas. after striping her down and filling a few dings i put a base of ocean blue metal specks down with about three or four coats of blue anodized metal cast over it. i love the color of blue that came as a result, it's deep and rich with just a shimmer of light blue specks. this was my first paint job and it has a few flaws, but i still love it and hope you do to.

Awsome finish
by DANIELLE PARE
The bike was laid over in the dirt for who knows how many years before we got it. Needless to say the tank was in need of help. After the body work and lots of filler primer we used the ground coat and the blue anodized, went on great and the color is amazing changes from abright blue to a deep blue with a very slight mettalic effect. Pictures dont do it justice. Be careful when the can is almost empty though you will get speckles then.


Optimus Prime
by GEORGE VANPOPERING
In my quest for a better engine, I was also looking to brighten things up a bit in the engine bay. So I picked a can of MetalCast paint from the shelf and sprayed one of the accessories. Needless to say I went MetalCast crazy and it just snowballed from there. At the end of my engine build I was looking at Optimus Prime! This stuff is amazing, both in the way it gleams in the light and its durability. It really holds up well to quite a bit of abuse. It has now been on my engine for 8 months and has been washed a number of time with engine degreaser and it still looks as good as the day I applied it. My next project is going to be another complete rebuild of the motor and this time I'm changing the color scheme to Smoke and Orange. Fantasic Product!!!


Here is a photo of Metalcasting from Optimus Prime:
 

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Another from Optimus Prime:
 

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A third from Optimus Prime
 

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Fourth and final from Optimus Prime. I think he kinda likes this Dupli-color Metalcast stuff. What do you think?
 

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Here are a few more images I thought I would throw in. Brake Calipers:
 

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Ah yes, you can use this on wood and plastic too. These used to be clear and were done according to the taped off design of the owner:
 

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A guitar using Metalcast:
 

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And the cans of magic:
 

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Dusty Boots wrote:
Yup .... know what you're sayin, Kev. :grinner:

Only reason I made that comment is that I was going to get a set of red anodized metal brake lines (or was it aluminum billet air valves :stumped:) and when I asked that question, the reply I got was that they would chip and lose their colour eventually.

Don't know if/how they top coated the colour process of the item in question.

Just sayin.

I do like the look of them though. :thumbsup:
I think there is a difference in process maybe.
I think he is talking about painting the wheels to look anodized, not real anodized.
Maybe the parts you were looking at were REAL anodized?

However, paint is paint, so it will do what paint does.

Real Anodized aluminum is basically a cleaned part, grow oxidation on it controlled, dye the part ( the controlled layer of oxidation is porous and holds the dye), then seal the part after dyed.
Real anodized should never chip, peel, flake, etc... because color is actually in the Aluminum. It may however fade, scratch, etc...
Sealing aluminum anodized parts is normally a reaction process like boiling in a vat of water, often with a special chemical added but sometimes not.
The oxidation layer is like larger porous tubes which will absorb the dye, boiling the parts the tubes shrink and lock in the dye.
Since true anodized parts the color surface is actually part of the part itself, it can never chip, flake, or peel. If scratched though you'll see the bare metal under the colored surface. The anodized layer though is actually a bit harder than the plain aluminum would be so harder to scratch, but still can happen.


I think myself I'd like the outer rim done, but leave the center, or do the center in another color like black or other that would look good with bike and red outer.
 

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That Metalcast paint looks pretty interesting, I may have to give it a try myself.

If it works as well as claimed it defiantly has some advantages over real anodized I think.
Anodized can only be done to aluminum for one thing, so no real way to have matching color plastic parts or steel parts.
Maybe this paint will solve the matching problems?
 
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