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Tomorrow I'm going to install a lighted override switch to bypass the ECU of my GL1500 so that in the event that a problem develops with any of the safety circuits, I can still get home.

In the event that something goes awry while on the road, by tapping into the main pin of the ECU, I can by-pass any safety circuits that could prevent me from starting the wing. For example, a bad BAS, or bad Neutral sensor etc. This safety switch will only be used if the wing will not start normally. By overriding it, I can finish my trip and troubleshoot the problem once back on the home front.

The reason for using a lighted switch is so that I'm aware when I am riding with by-pass on, reminding me to fix the problem right away. If anybody cares to know the procedure after I have performed it, I will be glad to document and and add detailed photos.

I got the idea from Mr. Skaggs and now I'm going to do it.
 

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I like it. How about some specifics?
 

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I could be interested. . . now where did I put that popcorn. . . .
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AHHHHHhhhhhh, a little snack while waiting for the show to begin.
:popcorn:

Be sure to add pictures, clear well lighted pix's.
 

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He's not the first, that is a me too thing.
 

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tlbranth wrote:
I like it. How about some specifics?
Okay, I discovered this from my forum friend Dave Skaggs. When I couldn't figure out why I wasn't getting spark, I learned that you can run 12 volts directly to pin 2 of the ECU and it will automatically give spark to your Goldwing and allow it to run, thus bypassing whatever safety circuit that's shutting down the 12v from your ECU and preventing the wing to get spark. When I did this, I immediately got spark. This eliminated the possibility of the ECU being bad but told me that something was wrong. My problem was that I had a bad connection from the #2 pin in the ECU connector to the #2 pin on the actual ECU which happens to be the pin that ultimately feeds the 12 volts to your coils. This is the Black & White wire on the connector.

So my install procedure will be the following:

1. Drill a large diameter hole into the Ignition switch console or other desirable location. The diameter should the same size as the diameter of the lighted rocker switch you intend to install. Now press in the rocker switch and set aside for now.

2. Next, disconnect the ECU harness cable from the ECU.

3. Now remove the ECU from the bike's frame and unscrew the 4 screws on the end of the ECU. (This will allow you to slide out the circuit board to gain access to the pins inside)

NOTE: The pin assignments are labeled on the circuit board as to what each pin is assigned to. (very convenient)

3. Next solder a wire to pin 2 on the ECU circuit board and NOT at the ECU connector.

4. Drill a feed hole into the ECU end (the end with the 4 screws) and feed the wire you've just soldered through this hole.

5. Now run this wire along the frame and up to the lighted rocker switch that you've installed in step 1.

6. Next attach the soldered wire (from ECU pin 2) to one pole of the lighted rocker switch. On the other switch pole, attach another wire and route it to the 12v auxiliary (+) screw located in the fuse box.

7. Carefully slide the circuit board back into the ECU case and secure it to the case with the 4 screws you removed in step 2.

8. Reattach the ECU to the frame.

9. Reinstall the ECU connector.

10. Enjoy your next ride knowing that you'll always get home.

There you have it. I will get more detailed on the poles of the switch after I've installed this so that it is 100% accurate. I will then produce a new thread with revised instructions and photos.

I will come up with a way to test the override switch before reassembling the ECU and mounting it back onto the frame and revise this post accordingly. Because the connector must be attached to the ECU to complete the circuit of the 3 yellow wires feeding voltage to the coils. (Thanks Larry)

PLEASE NOTE: This is the first time I have ever written a set of instructions for ANYTHING! So please forgive me if they're not to your liking.
 

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AZgl1500 wrote:
He's not the first, that is a me too thing.
You've done this procedure before?
 

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Hey Kevin, have you actually tried starting your bike with the ECU plug disconnected from the ECU? I don't see how that could possibly happen. The ECU has to cause the coils to fire by the other three wires (yel/red, yel/blu, yel/wht). All you are accomplishing is bypassing the ECU plug to get power to the ECU. Unless I am missing something, that ECU has to be connected to make the coils send sparks.

I can see how that would bypass all the saftey interlocks and let the ECU get its power and make things happen normally if the ECU plug is connected so it can communicate with the coils and other sensors.



Larry
 

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The purpose is to bypass the safety interlocks until you get home. That is all.
 

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Come to think of it Larry, I think the connector was connected when I bypassed the number 2 pin. I will have to give some more thought to how to test it.

The pin that I'm giving 12 volts to is the pin that feeds the voltage to the coils. Which is the very same pin that the "black & white" wire from the connector makes contact with when connected to the ECU.

Basically, when there is a problem with one of the safety circuits, such as the BAS, what the ECU is doing is shutting down the 12 volts going to the coils. That's really its only function...shutting down the coils and not giving you spark.

So what I'm doing with this override switch is saying, to heck with you Mr. ECU. I'm not letting you shut me down. Instead I'm bypassing you and giving my goldwing spark whenever I damn well please. LOL! Its amazing the things you learn when your motorcycle won't start!
 

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AZgl1500 wrote:
The purpose is to bypass the safety interlocks until you get home. That is all.
You are correct. Although riding with the override switch on will likely not cause any harm, you shouldn't continue riding all the time with the switch on. You need to find out what caused the ECU to shut down spark. You could have a short in a wire which could cause a fire if not corrected. That's probably worse case scenario but why take a chance. Get it home and get it fixed.
 

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kemoloney wrote:
Come to think of it Larry, I think the connector was connected when I bypassed the number 2 pin. I will have to give some more thought to how to test it
Maybe flip the override switch on and it still starts with the kickstand down. Something like that. I will figure out a way of testing it after doing the modification and update my instructions.

But after thinking about your post, you're absolutely right, the connector had to be connected to give spark because of the 3 yellow wires that feed the 3 coils.

How does it feel to be so smart Larry? LOL! Because that you are my friend!
 

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Ok Kevin, we are on the same page now. With the bypass switch turned on and the ECU plug connected normally, you should be able to start the bike with it in gear and the kickstand down. Or you could start it normally andleave the kickstand down. When you put it in gear it should keep running with your bypass switch on.

That seems like a good test to see if it works as planned.
 

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ECU's typically operate at low voltage be sure that 12 V is not too high as opto isolators are used internally. Check your work carefully.
 

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ARKnapp wrote:
ECU's typically operate at low voltage be sure that 12 V is not too high as opto isolators are used internally. Check your work carefully.
Thanks for your input. The pin I am adding voltage to is supposed to read 12 volts in order to power the coils so it should not be a problem.
 

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For the Ignition system modification you're discussing, an easy test would be that the bike will run with the kill switch off, and depending on where you grab the power -- maybe even run with the key off (be careful not to lock your steering :p )

Be sure to size your "switch" large enough (or use a relay) and adequate wire gauge. Remember that the coils eat some current and if you're really having troubles, the ECU board then connector will"back-feed" the current that the coils and charging system need (IMHO, I seriously doubt that the pin at the ECU-to-harness connector or the trace on the board will last long passing 8-amps or more back 'out' to the bike)

This power bypass (depending on where you find the +12V) will bypass the ignition relay, its fuse, the kill switch and related connectors (but the very pin that you found to be weak on your ECU may be requird for the bike to be powered). Since the ignition relay is controlled by the BAC, it'll take that outta the equation as well. The side-stand input to the ECU is a seperate pin and would not be affected.

To address the sidestand interlock, your mod would want to ground pin#23 foryour Interstate (the SE is differnt)
 

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Bellboy40 wrote:
Ok Kevin, we are on the same page now. With the bypass switch turned on and the ECU plug connected normally, you should be able to start the bike with it in gear and the kickstand down. Or you could start it normally andleave the kickstand down. When you put it in gear it should keep running with your bypass switch on.

That seems like a good test to see if it works as planned.
That sounds good Larry. I will have to try that and see what happens. I may not get to it today after all but I'm gonna try.
 

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Interesting. Waiting to see your photo tutorial on this. I just might do that as being stranded on a ride is not fun. That is the reason I installed a LED voltmeter last winter.




.
 

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Consider using a Normally Open Momentary Contact push button with a SPST or DPST relay, wired to be latching on and capable of enough current to handle the load needed.

That way you would turn on the key and press the button once before starting and it would drop back out every time you shut off the key.

It would be a good reminder each start to get the problem fixed without needing a lighted switch or leaving it on.
 

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Rudy wrote:
Consider using a Normally Open Momentary Contact push button with a SPST or DPST relay, wired to be latching on and capable of enough current to handle the load needed.

That way you would turn on the key and press the button once before starting and it would drop back out every time you shut off the key.

It would be a good reminder each start to get the problem fixed without needing a lighted switch or leaving it on.
Rudy I did consider a momentary-on rocker switch but didn't have one to test. I guess you can also just flip the override switch off once it is started. My final switch will likely be a momentary-on rocker though. I'm not a fan of push button.

Just to update everyone, I did install the override switch today and it did work as expected. I am currently putting together a revised instruction manual, complete with colored photos, which I will post tomorrow. I am about halfway done but it is time consuming to make up a tutorial. Just ask Rudy, he knows. If you have any questions in the meantime, feel free to ask. It should be posted by 7pm EST tomorrow.
 

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satan wrote:
For the Ignition system modification you're discussing, an easy test would be that the bike will run with the kill switch off, and depending on where you grab the power -- maybe even run with the key off (be careful not to lock your steering :p )

Be sure to size your "switch" large enough (or use a relay) and adequate wire gauge. Remember that the coils eat some current and if you're really having troubles, the ECU board then connector will"back-feed" the current that the coils and charging system need (IMHO, I seriously doubt that the pin at the ECU-to-harness connector or the trace on the board will last long passing 8-amps or more back 'out' to the bike)

This power bypass (depending on where you find the +12V) will bypass the ignition relay, its fuse, the kill switch and related connectors (but the very pin that you found to be weak on your ECU may be requird for the bike to be powered). Since the ignition relay is controlled by the BAC, it'll take that outta the equation as well. The side-stand input to the ECU is a seperate pin and would not be affected.

To address the sidestand interlock, your mod would want to ground pin#23 foryour Interstate (the SE is differnt)
The kill switch was my test Stan. With the bypass switch on, it will start and run with the kill switch off but not with the ignition key off. As for the BAS, are you sure it's out of play? The reason I say this is because when Dave Skaggs couldn't get spark, he overrided pin 2 and eventually found that the cause of this was no Bank Angle Sensor was installed and the return circuit was not completed. But I could be wrong. As far as the pin or harness lasting, it is only temporary. Once the bike is started, you can turn the switch off and it should still continue to run, wouldn't you think?

Speaking of the sidestand, I am experiencing some problems with that and with starting in neutral. Can you help me out with that? What happens is; when the sidestand is down, and the bike is in neutral, I still can't start it. Even with the clutch in. The sidestand must be up no matter what on mine. Also, I cannot start it unless the clutch is in no matter what. In fact, even when in neutral with sidestand up, the clutch has to be in. So basically what I am saying is that on my GL1500, the following must be done to start it up. The side stand must be up, the trans must be in neutral, and the clutch must be in. If any of these conditions are not met, it will not start. It seems no one else has this problem. Its very annoying. I would in the very least like to be able to start it up while in neutral with the clutch out. What is the problem? If anyone could tell me, I would think that would be you. Hope you can help me figure it out.
 
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