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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have not found anyone else who has had this problem but I hope someone can help. I have a 1999 Goldwing 1500SE and my left headlight bulb keeps burning out on low beam. Yes the wiring looks ok, replay replaced, housing looks ok,starter switch has been cleaned as well as the high & low beam switch. I have replaced this bulb as a set of 2 3 times in one year! Any ideas as to why only the left low beam burns out?
 

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The Irish Crew
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Is the bulb connector burnt out? Did you make sure not to touch the bulb glass last time you changed it?

Also you might want to edit the title of your thread so we know what it's about on the main page. Putting your username in the topic description isn't much use.
 

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Burnt out bulb

usually is caused by a bad ground circuit which causes bulb to pull more amps then it should
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks FitzAl and neoracer. Sorry for the wrong title, first time using thread & learning.
The bulb connector is ok & I wear gloves as to not touch along with cleaning the bulb from the pkg. before install with dielectric grease on connectors. I am using the higher rated 65/55watt & wondered if I need to change the relay to a higher amp one? I will put the amp meter on tomorrow.
 

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If the relay is too low amperage it will just burn out the relay, no effect on the bulb. Does the bail hold the bulb tight? Vibration from being loose will blow bulbs.
 

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I think IBA rider you are experiencing what I am going through in my Subaru Forester, the quality of bulbs is nothing like it used to be. Once I have changed the bulb it seems like I am forever changing them. We run with the headlights on at all times. I have no yet replaced a high beam bulb (H1 in both hi and lo) and have changed 4 low beam bulbs over 5 years
 

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I know you can put an aftermarket bulb in a Honda car and it won't last long, especially the (advertised) brighter ones. Even though Honda's bulbs are made by one of the major manufacturers so you would think there would be no difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the help. I have been using Sylvania Silverstar Ultra High Performance H4 55/60 and they cost $49.99 a set. This is getting expensive but I've got to have a problem other than the bulb.
 

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I have had similar issues and I am also using the Silverstar Ultras. Usually I burn out the high beam filament as I run with the highs on during the day. I was having simliar issues with the regular bulbs as well. I have even had a couple replaced under warranty (one year, keep receipt).

I think the ground is the same for both bulbs and it sounds like you've checked the connectors, even using grease which I never did.

I decided over the winter to install HID kit. These bulbs have a three year warranty. Almost everyone says the HID light should be brighter but I was satisfied with the light output of the Ultra bulbs and if the HID match that and give me the longer life, I'll be happy. Yet to have the weather cooperate but as soon as the roads are clear and dry, I will be able to find out the brightness.

You can run the ballasts and bulbs off the stock harness as they draw less current (35 watts) but there is a start up surge. The kit however comes with a separate hot lead for the ballasts and only uses the stock circuit to fire the relay and it only uses one of the bulb sockets so if one is giving trouble, just tie it off to the side.

This might be worth looking into. I bought from Cyclemax: http://cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/gl1500_35_watt_hid_headlight_kit/83/143554

Tell them I sent you. :waving:
 

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Piled Higher and Deeper
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I suspect it is an automotive bulb in a high vibration (motorcycle) application. Usually not a problem, but it depends on its mounting and how it is ridden. Do a search for anti-vibration H4 (or whatever) and you can find more robust versions that are likely to reduce your aggravation.
 

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I decided over the winter to install HID kit. These bulbs have a three year warranty. Almost everyone says the HID light should be brighter but I was satisfied with the light output of the Ultra bulbs and if the HID match that and give me the longer life, I'll be happy. Yet to have the weather cooperate but as soon as the roads are clear and dry, I will be able to find out the brightness.

:waving:
Boy are you in for a surprise. HIDs make regular bulbs look like candles.
 

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A friend had the same problem, but it was low beam on an 1800.. He finally changed the bulb holder and the problem went away
 

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I have not found anyone else who has had this problem but I hope someone can help. I have a 1999 Goldwing 1500SE and my left headlight bulb keeps burning out on low beam. Yes the wiring looks ok, replay replaced, housing looks ok,starter switch has been cleaned as well as the high & low beam switch. I have replaced this bulb as a set of 2 3 times in one year! Any ideas as to why only the left low beam burns out?
When you're replacing te bulb, do you find that the refelctor assembly moves about 1/4 to 1/2-inch (pulling on the left bulb retainer /v/ pushing)?

If so, this is not too uncommon (as I've found) on 1500's. The reflector assembly is 'aimed" in the over-all lens/housing assembly by means of a long jackscrew running the full depth of the housing (usually capped, just under the center of the lens in the headlight assembly). I've been seeing that the the "follower" that connects the reflector to that jackscrew has been breaking. Since the reflector pivot is on the right side of the headlight assembly, this leaves the left side of the reflector (and indeed the left bulb, since the reflector holds the bulb mount) free to shake about.

I had a similar issue with the left bulb only, chaged the headlamp assembly with a knonw good unit (stable reflector), and have not had this issue since.


Just a thought -- I read where the bulb holders are OK, so this may not be related, but if the holders move at all (especially while you're workingthe spring clips) you could have a busted follower on the assembly aiming screw that's leading to extra vibration on the left bulb.
 
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