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I have a honda goldwing 1986. I bought it for 2900 hundred rode on two trips and coming back the clutch started slipping. I checked clutch fluid cleaned and replaced clutch change the oil worked fine for a nother 30 miles started slipping again it has 100000 miles on . any suggestions. Do I have to take the motor out to replace the clutch? Or can it be a bad master cylinder?
 

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try half a can of seafoam in the oil... also disassemble the clutch lever (not the master cylinder), Clean and lube the bushing and pushing rod. sometimes on mine she starts to slip when the bushing gets sticky. good luck!, dont forget to tell us what oil are you using, what do you mean by changing clutch?; Fluid? or plates?
 

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First, welcome to the forum Rob.



My '87 has the original clutch. With 248 thousand miles on it.

And I just discovered that the oil I've been using all this time has the dreaded friction modifiers in it.

My point is, with only 100 grand, I suspect your clutch is fine unless it's really been abused. Like William says, run some cleaner in the bike and then change the oil.

Also, clean & bleed theclutch hydraulic system. The slave cylinder is on the back of the engine and is hard to get to, but it can be done. I suspect that's where your problem is at.

Hopefully, with a couple hours of tender care you'll be 'Wingin' in the wind...:action:
 

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I replaced all new oil oil was very black i put the oil honda told me ..Its a little weird i replaced all hydrolic fluied and blead the the clutch. it started working normal i had a little play in the lever. I then put about 50 miles on it and the lever lost it play and clutch started slipping agian any sugestions????
 

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It sounds like air in your clutch line fluid (Dot4) or junk in the line.

Bike...and Dennis wrote:
My '87 has the original clutch. With 248 thousand miles on it. And I just discovered that the oil I've been using all this time has the dreaded friction modifiers in it.
I read a oil analysis for the factory oil of a near new Goldwing and it was loaded with moly. One of those things that makes ya wonder.
 

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The clutch plates can be replaced with the engine in situ. I did mine- it's a bit awkward, but can be done. Usually hydraulic problems prevent the clutch disengaging, not engaging, but it may be worth checking this area out.

As with cars- some people can make a clutch last the life of the vehicle, whilst others can wear one out in 30k miles. it depends how it's been used (or abused!)....Steve
 

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Big E wrote:
It sounds like air in your clutch line fluid (Dot4) or junk in the line.

Bike...and Dennis wrote:
My '87 has the original clutch. With 248 thousand miles on it. And I just discovered that the oil I've been using all this time has the dreaded friction modifiers in it.
I read a oil analysis for the factory oil of a near new Goldwing and it was loaded with moly. One of those things that makes ya wonder.
HOnda recommended a little bit of moly (and included it in their factory oil) until the GL1800.. they still sell both versions.. I think it is HP4 and HP4M.... the "dreaded friction modifiiers" in the most recent oils are excessive moly disulphide (1200 ppm), teflon and graphite. The Delo 400 LE that is so popular here actually has about 75 ppm of moly. I wouldn't use it in the GL1800 (just because Honda says no moly) but for all previous models it is okay.
 

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The clutch lever must have some play in it when you first squeeze it. One of the holes in the reservoir is probably clogged.

John
 

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THE CLUTCH LEVERIS HARD THEN IT START SLIPPING. tHEN I BLEADD IT AGIAN IT DONT SLIP FOR ABOUT 15 MILES THEN IT KEEPS GETTING WORSE WHEN I BLEAD THE CLUTCH FIRST TIME IT DID HAVE CRUD GUNK IN BOTTEM .SHOULD I REBUILD THE MASTER CYLINDER HOW HARD IS IT TO REBUILD ?????OR SHOULD I JUST TAKE ABART TO CLEAN??????
 

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The fact thatbleeding the systemis changing the condition leads me to believe you're on the right track. But something is being missed.

How are you bleeding the system? The best way is to use a mighty-vac at the slave cylinder. Pump several fillings of the master cylinder through the system to make sure you have cleaned out the lines.

Eitherthe master or slave cylinder could be going out too, I suppose, but I'd think that would give you opposite symptoms.
 

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robroy wrote:
THE CLUTCH LEVERIS HARD THEN IT START SLIPPING. tHEN I BLEADD IT AGIAN IT DONT SLIP FOR ABOUT 15 MILES THEN IT KEEPS GETTING WORSE WHEN I BLEAD THE CLUTCH FIRST TIME IT DID HAVE CRUD GUNK IN BOTTEM .SHOULD I REBUILD THE MASTER CYLINDER HOW HARD IS IT TO REBUILD ?????OR SHOULD I JUST TAKE ABART TO CLEAN??????
I had the same thing. Is it possible that you didn't get all the crud out? Drain the master and make sure there is no more stuff in there, then do what Dennis said, run several fillings of the master through and out to make sure nothing is floating around in there. I also found that the tops of my master cyclinder had coroded a bit and were no longer smooth and flat. I sanded them smooth with very fine paper and replaced the diaphram, backer plate, and cover to make sure there were no leaks.



Good luck.
 

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you need to bleed it starting at the top take the line loose at the master cylinder and watch the air come out. then go to the slave. but you must have other problems even if you don't have anything at the lever you should have good clutch not no clutch. but you may have a hole plugged in the master making the pressure build up and release the clutch without you pulling the handle. that's why you ride it and it gets worse it builds up a little at at a time. try riding it and then see if there is pressure at the slave without pumping it up. you probabaly don't have to ride it you can just pump the handle simulating the ride sevsral time and see if you have pressure at the slave without the handle pulled.
 

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robroy wrote:
Wheni blead the clutch i take cover off put a socket on the slave cylinder loosen nut pull clutch lever back then tighten nut on slave cylinder.
OK Rob, I think I just read the problem. I think you are doing it backwards. If I'm not mistaken, the bleed action on the clutch master cylinder is the out-stroke. Opposite to brake bleeding.

Get a vacuum bleeder. It's way more effective. There is a thread on this siteabout building your own bleeder too.You're a tool away from fixing your clutch.
 

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yep doing it backwards. pull first then loosen the nut and then tighten the nut and let off the handle.
 

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skoto1 wrote:
yep doing it backwards. pull first then loosen the nut and then tighten the nut and let off the handle.
Whoa...the system has to be open in the outward motion of the lever, right?

Please don't take offense Skoto, I'm just checking.

Isn't the sequence; "pull in"..."loosen"..."let out"..."tighten".

One thing I know for sure is a vacuum bleeder sure works better.
 

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i don't think so i did mine as i said above it worked but maybe i got lucky. i keep the lever pulled after i got pressure and didn't let off until i retighten the nut? worked for me. no offense taken i don't take offense on here i'm still learning.:shock: so i'm just throwing out what i did. just like the dog bone thing. just what i have experienced not what i'm guessing at. i don't guess if i haven't done it i don't say anything.:action:
 
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