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woohoo finally got it. :clapper: want a long ass trip to pick it up. I had to trailer it back home because the engine isnt running properly.


I do know the charging system isn't working. I dont know if the previous owner knew that. Tomorrow i will be tracking down what isn't connected or is bad.


I have couple questions about the 85 or 86 limited edition or anyone who has the 1200s.


How do you change the channels on the radio?? I know theres a button on the left grip that says "tune" but that doesn't do anything.


Does the air suspension display always display numbers? Mine has two dashes. And when are you suppose to adjust the suspension?


Can anyone with the 1200 fuel injection take a dig picture of the emissions label on the bottom of the frame. Mines missing half of it and hardly readable. I just want to see the timing, valve lash, type of oil etc.......


thanks
 

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On my '85 Aspy I have a toggle switch by the left hand grip. Pushing the switch up makes the stations go up, down for down. My switch doesn't work very well, so I use the pre-sets when possible. I don't have any way to "dial thru" the stations at the radio.
 

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Mine doesn't advance the stations sometimes, othertimes it skips by like I didn't let off soon enough. I think it's old age and rain taking it's toll. I've seen other posts where spraying WD-40 into the switch helps. I haven't tried this yet.
 

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That rig's 20 years old, Right. Get ready for a lot of electrical maintenance. Do you know where it's spent most of it's life? No matter. The air corrodes all switch contacts it can get to. Including connectors. You might outa get a LTD Supplemental manual. Get it from Helm, maybe for a reasonable price at dealer, or on E-Bay. The radio doesn't tune, nor the CB tune, nor the compressor work, cause to start with the contacts are almost surely corroded (the ones on the handlebars). I ended up prying mine apart, cleaning the contacts very carefully with a small narrow gun file. Gotta go easy. Get some Electrical contact cleaner, spray in to switch contacts, (very lightly) Procure at Radio shack, for starters. Then tape them back together, to test them for awhile. Then you gan glue them with Gorilla glue, or such. Don't glue them too good, tho. They'll eventually have to come apart, to do the process again. Then, pull the false tank, after pulling seat. Do a 2 dozen pull apart, back together, pull apart, back together job on all the connectors at front, on both sides. Then insert some dielectric grease, or equivelant, befor final assembly. While right pocket, is off, pull the connector off ride computer. Kinda tricky to figure out the latch, then do the same thing to that connector. The ride computer is on the outside of fairing, close to the over flow plastic tank for the radiator, but the connector passes thru, to under the right pocket area. Start with those items, but, unless you're a genius at electrical, definitely get the Supp. Manual. The suspension display doesn't display anything, till you tell it to do something, with the left hand switches. Now, what is the engine problem? Could be more electrical, or stagnent fuel, who knows? For engine t-shooting, check this link. D-load the zip files, cause that link could disappear someday, Maybe even back them up to floppys, cd-r, etc. http://www.intouchmail.net/~fmattox/limited/manual.html Let us know. Good luck
 

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My radio switch didn't want to work right either until I used contact cleaner and wd-40 on it. When it works properly a short bump on it will advance the frequency a notch. Hold it down for a second or two and the 'search' function kicks in.

The suspesion readout only kicks in when you hit the 'pressure check' function. And the ignition has to be on, the kill switch-on, the brakes off and have it on the center stand.

Like oregon winger said, start taking every electrical connection apart and cleaning it. The manual for the bike is a huge help. You really don't want to work on it without it. Wait til you see the wiring schematic for your bike, I think it's more complex than the space shuttle. I have an sei so I'm real familiar with it. I had to do some work on mine before it ran completely right but it was worth every minute. Once you get the bugs worked out, you'll love it!
 

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thanks for the responses


the owner gave me a clymer manual. Huge, huge help. I did see the wiring diagram. I hope they have a color diagram available because that has to be impossible to read. It is easier reading automotive wiring diagrams then this bike. I wonder how long it took the electrical engineer to setup all the circuits.


I believe the missing and low power is due to the charging system not working. The bike runs with 11 volts. Im going to try using a car battery in conjunction with the bikes battery. The other day i tried it, the bike ran very smooth. The stator had the plug eliminated and has three crimp connections. Something i will check. I will check the existing wiring from the regulator to the battery and main fuse. It isn't the first time ive seen someone create a new circuit incorrectly.


The cb display does work. But i dont know if i can hear anything until i get my headset.

I will try taking the switches apart and checking continuity. And dabbing dielectric grease. I might take some dig shots of me doing it to help others out too.


When can i use the air compressor on the bike? Is it the same like setting up the suspension?


Its a very awesome bike and love it being big. Only downside is reading clymers and seeing "DO NOT" and "very expensive electrical parts"


thanks for the responses
 

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So sorry. No color diagram that I've ever seen. And yes, will run crummy on 11 v. I went the external alt on mine. Just love it. Still have a (Interstate) alternator in mine, so I have a backup. Do the AC voltage on the three wires coming out of back of engine. Between there and front of battery. You might luck out, and just have a bad Regulator. Or your electrical connections are fried. Really look at the connector at battery, and connector at regulator.
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Let us know, and good luck. And it is an incredible rig, when everything works.
 

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Test your stator by doing this



GL1200 Stator Testing









Get a digital voltmeter that measures A/C and DC as well as resistance

Pull battery cover (left side) off and put bike on centre stand



Have battery load tested at battery shop if OK charge overnight measure DC volts straight across battery after charge should be about 13.5-13.9 VDC Reinstall battery.

On the left side of the battery you will see three yellow wires either going to a plug or wired straight thru by previous owner


Disconnect the plug OR cut the three yellow wires one at a time VERY important ONE at a time mark wiresA; B: C; You have to disconnect to get true readings. If left connected a lot of other problems could mislead you. Clean wires leading to stator by about ½ inch. You will be soldering later

Srart the bike

This will not hurt the bike in anyway. It will run on the battery

Put meter on A/C scale across any combination A-B;B-C;A-C rev bike to 3000 RPM. You should see 45 to 60 volts A/Cacross any of above combination

If OK shut bike offmeasure on resistance scale (50K is good) from each of three wires to ground It should be infinite EG open must not have any shorts to ground

Measure from A-B; B:-C; A:-C; measurement should be in the vicinity of 1.2 ohms on any of the legs

If all measurements are ok (volts and resistance)your stator is good



Bad News Scenarios



1 A/C volts under 40 V A/C (with wires disconnected and at 3000 RPM)

2 Any leg A: B: or C: shorted to ground (Low or no resistance to ground)

3 Any combination A:-B: B:-C: A:-C: open (infinite resistance)



If stator is bad you may consider the alternator alternative See separate post on that subject

Or it entails pulling engine to replace stator



Ifyou havethe plug cut it out and solder each of the three yellow wires straight thru cover with heat shrink. Follow wiring all the way down to where it enters engine(under sleeve) just to make sure there are no other hidden splices (throw the plug at the neighbour’s cat or some thing it’s a piece of crap)



While you are in the area it is recommended that you change the fuseable link (30 amp main fuse) to a heavy-duty fuse holder with bayonet style fuses. These old fuses have a tendency to corrode and fail at the worst times leaving you with a dead bike



Start bike with meter still attached to battery voltage will go down while cranking over but should come back up to 13 VDC plus when you rev bike turn on Hi Beams volt should drop slightly but still be over 13 VDC if not e.g. 11 to 11.5 dc replace regulator 10 min job (lots on ebay)
 

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Check your current wiring from the stator to the regulator, and at the starter relay first. You may find bad connections that is causing your problems.
 

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Hi you will love the LTD when it is running correctly. Mine is like a regularGL1200 on steroids. It looks like most of your questions have been answered I don't have a Dig camera here but I went out and looked at the emissions tag. This is what it says

Idle speed Neutral 1000 +- 1000

Fast Idle No Adjustment

Idle Mix No Adjustment

Fuel/ Lubricant All Gas 91 RON Min /10w40 SE or SF

Spark Plug / Gap NGK DPR 8EA-9 / .8 - .9 mm

My Trip computer Label was pretty faded so I made a Design Cad drawing of one. If you have a Cad program I can send you the drawing and you can print it to a clear overlay sheet. Works pretty good on mine.
 

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My 1200 had problems with all the handle bar switches when I got it. I did not have to take any of them apart I just used a whole can of Radio Shack Tuner cleaner in them. They have all worked great since then.
 

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thanks


i checked the three stator wires with the harness connected. ..(because they are crimped together) and got 6v 6v and 0v which isn't good. I will do the continunity test, and try the disconnect test.


I guess i have to pull the motor out :X Do i need any special tools and does the timing belt need to be removed?
 

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Having the r.h. timing belt cover off is a big help.
 

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:gunhead: :gunhead: :gunhead: :gunhead:


i doubt my multimeter sucks, but at 3000 rpms with the stator disconnected. Highest AC voltage i got was 25. :gunhead:



Im curious to people with the fuel injection, if any of you had a weak battery. How bad does it run.


Maybe next week ill pick up a stator and install it. And that will allow me to test all the sensors on the motor, injectors, and see if i got any vacuum leaks. Plus do a compression test.

did i forget to mention :gunhead:
 

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Careful!!!!!!. If you hook a car-pickup up to start it, do not have that vehicle running. If it's voltage reg is set high enough, you could take out your bike regulator. And, yes, it will run bad, with low voltage. There was a stator for LTD/SEi on Ebay, the other day. 200+ dolla You'll want exhaust gaskets, rear cover gasket, clutch cover gasket. Try to get the exhaust off in one piece, otherwise the tube type seals where headers go in, may fall apart, then you'll have to buy them, too. I got my parts from www.servicehonda.comTakes about a week.
 

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i have a car battery by itself that i drag around my house to jump my bikes. Some of the bikes have a hard time starting in the winter and a car battery allows it to crank over better.


Im going to check the timing belts, while i got the motor pulled. The owner stated he had them done. I hope they were correctly installed. Im hoping the misfiring is due to the computer not having sufficient voltage.



I did play with the suspension. I turn the kill switch and i can hear the air pump turn on for a bit, and the display light up. But no numbers. might need to clean those switches on the handelbars like everyone said. :X

i have to stop buying projects
 
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