Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 39 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

Greetings!! First post here, name's Matt. Long time car enthusiast/restorer/hotrodder, first time motorcycle rider.... at age 35.



Learned to ride just over a month ago (BRAND new rider)... immediately went out and bought an inexpensive bike to learn on.... loving it so far./



1981 Goldwing 1100GL, 64k miles.... flat black, stripped down (naked), with harley softail fenders, and a harley seat, dual downturnchrome pipes. Pretty cool actually.



Been riding it back and forth to workalmost every day. Been through 5 tanks of gas in less than a month. So far, I have:



Changed the fork seals and dust covers

installed new starter solenoid

Changed the oil and filter

Changed the air filter

Installed front turn signals (it didn't have them)

Installed an old set of harley saddlebags by welding up some custom brackets.

Changed spark plugs



The good:



Bike starts every time, first try with a little choke

Doesn't stall.... ever

Runs smooth over 3000rpm... especially once fully warmed up

All the electronics/gauges/lights, etc work good.

Structurally sound, no rust, etc.



So here's my "symptoms" of what I'd like to address... hopefully someone can point me in a good starting direction.



Rough idle (like a miss)

Right rear spark plug very wet with oil

During startup, bike spits oil/gas mix out right tailpipe

after shut down, oil drips from right tailpipe, leaves a quarter-sized puddle

Bike WREAKS of gasoline.... horribly rich smelling, terrible gas mileage, poor acceleration



After the bike gets warmed up, it runs significantly better... but it still has that slight miss... and as a brand new rider, the bike feels "slow", like it won't accelerate very well.



Now, I bought it knowing that the carbs should be synced. In the meantime, it runs "ok". If someone has a tutorial on how to do it the right way????



This is where (hopefully) you come in.... before I attempt to sync the carbs, or pay a pro to do it... what else should I look at?



Thanks in advance folks... looking forward to browsing the forum.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,379 Posts
imported post

Hello and welcome to the forum.

it sounds like what your bike needs is a carb rebuild.

the best parts are available here: www.randakks.com dont mess around and waste ur time trying to get something cheapper. once the carbs are rebuilt sync them and use a new fuel filter.

since you are new here theres something you need to know about goldwing and vendors. stay away from one called sabercycle. they sell crap and their customer service is as bad as what they sell

have fun and enjoy your ride!
 

·
Happy Goldwinger
Joined
·
778 Posts
imported post

I just realized that link is for GL1200 carbs and you have an 1100. But it should give you a general idea of what is involved.
 

·
Gregarious Greeter
Joined
·
16,809 Posts
imported post

[align=center]

[/align]
[align=center]Welcome ninefourteener[/align]
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,522 Posts
imported post

Sounds like you may have some bad piston rings or valve seals. also sounds like you have float sticking, Run some seafoam through it. If not better of fixes the problem you will need to do a rebuild.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
26,536 Posts
imported post

Synching the carbs is not going to do anything significant for them until you fix what is making it run rich. Most likely the floats are set too high or the jets have been drilled out. Get the fuel problem fixed and the oil problem will probably go away also.
 

·
Administrator
1987 GL1200 Interstate
Joined
·
22,749 Posts
imported post

Syncing the carbs won't fix what you describe, and will just be a waste of time & money until you fix whatever is really messed up. Could be a float that doesn't, or maybe a needle gone bad. Try some cleaner, like Wayne says, but if it doesn't cure the problem in a couple of tankfulls, plan on some carb work.



EDIT: Oops, Dave beat me to it.

 

·
Junior Grue
Joined
·
8,153 Posts
imported post

DaveO430 wrote:
Synching the carbs is not going to do anything significant for them until you fix what is making it run rich. Most likely the floats are set too high or the jets have been drilled out. Get the fuel problem fixed and the oil problem will probably go away also.
+1
If you have carburetor problems or compression problems synchronizing will not help.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
imported post

Thanks all for the helpful advice. I'd planned on checking the valves... figured that would be a good place to start.

By the way, are the valve cover gaskets reusable, or do they have to be replaced?

As far as the carbs are concerned... I've run about 4 or 5 tanks of gas through it over the past month.... I'll try running a bit of seafoam through it to see if that helps.

About the bike..... hopefully no one hates me, but I've had every intention of buying a heritage springer since I was about 18. I took the riders course a little over a month ago.... but I cant buy a springer until Feb, when my car is paid off.

In the meantime though, I wanted a bike similar in size/weight/power... that was ultra-cheap but ran ok. The Goldwing fit the bill. I figure it would be better to drop a $1000 bike than a $14,000 bike

Not to discredit the GWs, I'm having a blast with this thing. Plus, I want to take care of it, because in Feb when I buy my new one, I'll likely just give the bike to my best friend so he can learn to ride on it as well.

Again... thanks all. Gonna go take a look at that carb link now. Unfortunately, unless it's a quadrajet or a Carter AFB... I'm relatively clueless.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
imported post

Quick questions:

1) Do I have to pull the engine to get the carb assembly off? It doesn't "look" like I would need to, but that is the last thing I want to discover during the process.

2) How do I know which "model" 81 Goldwing I have? Does it even matter, or did they all use the same carb setup?

3) Is there a retailer that performs quality carb rebuilds at a decent price? Someone I can just send it to? Maybe even someone that has a stockpile of good carbs? Sometimes piece of mind that it was done by a pro is worthwhile. After watching that video, I feel confident I can sync them.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
26,536 Posts
imported post

1- No you do not have to pull the engine.

2-Look on the tag on the steering head, if it says GL1100 it is a standard. GL1100i is an interstate, not that it makes any difference on parts.

3- Hard to find someone to rebuild carbs who knows what they are doing. Synching is simple and still needs done on your engine even after they are rebuilt.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
imported post

Ok... if it doesn't matter on parts, I'm not too worried about it.

Another thing I was thinking of... when I pulled the spark plugs, the right rear one was wet with oil. The other 3 though, were nice and tan... almost perfect. That tells me that if I can figure out what is wrong with that one carb, I should be able to sync them all, and it should run great :)
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
26,536 Posts
imported post

You can probably pull them and remove the bowl from the 1 and pretty easily see what the problem is. I am betting the float is set too high or the needle valve is bad. You will be surprised how much power that bike has when running right.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
imported post

Yea... as a new rider, I actually expected to be rather terrified to full-throttle this bike.

I'm not... at all. It is definitely not running right.

any tutorials on floats/jets out there? Knowing what I know... the cylinder seems like it is being flooded, which tells me it's not a jet... but what everyone else is saying.. a stuck float.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,837 Posts
imported post

Not realy Ninefouteener.
It probly tells you that the float may be set high on that one carb or the float valve or seat is damaged.
A 1100 naked should pull pretty hard especuialy fo a new rider. Mostly the carb sync will cure tha hammering noise at low rpm from the primary chain and help smooth out idle.
Mostly idle problems are caused by plugged low speed idle circuts. Each carb feeds only 250CC cyclinder so idle passages are very small and easily plugged and very hard to cleam.
Also on the 80 and 81 the low speed jet that gets plugged in pressed in and not easily removed.
If you like to much about on cars and bikes this is a very fun project. Like most things mechanical all systems need to be operating properly for it to run well And this is most true with a goldwing. Start at the basic's do a compression test first it will tell you alot about you engine. Then set valves cold engine. From there you can check ignition and fuel systems.
Goldwings are very sensitive to anything even slightly off on the intake side . They are very forgiving on the exhaust side.
Have fun.
Oh and I have always reused the valve cover gaskets as they are rubber seals. Be very carfull not to over tighten the bolts or they will leak and you will need new ones
And that have fun with the bike and you will miss it after you switch to the haratage.
Wilf
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,077 Posts
imported post

Another site that has a great tutorial of carb overhaul:
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12168

They deal with 1000s and 1100s with mostly no plastics "naked".

Not saying you need a full rebuild, just read through and get an idea of where to start. Show how to set the float heights.

I bought some carb kits and other parts from:
http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/honda/gl1100/?filters[category]=carb&filters[fitting]=custom

These are not as good as Randaks, but they worked for me, your mileage may vary!

Good luck and I'd like to look at some photos if you get some time!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
987 Posts
imported post

Welcome 914r, considering you know you have some fuel issues, please keep a fire extinguisher handy. That dripping fuel out the pipe is dangerous. (don't ask).
Check out the search function and you can find almost any answer right here. Enjoy!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
imported post

Back from the dead folks..... Maybe someone can help me out.

I've changed all the vacuum lines, changed all the fuel lines, installed a new fuel filter, and in the past month, I've run about 6 tanks of fuel through it.... and a total of 2 bottles of seafoam over 6 tanks.

The bike runs a MILLION times better.

But it's still not perfect... and I think I figured out why.

The RR cylinder.... isn't firing at all. That certainly expains the gassy oil mix, and the misfire. The exhaust pipe barely gets warm, and even when I pull that wire off teh plug while its running, it has absolutely no change.

No spark at all to RR cylinder.

I took everything apart, and all the 3 other cylinders are firing.

I inspected the wire.. it looks fine. I took it off, dabbed on some dielectrode grease... still no spark.

If it were a coil pack, wouldn't TWO cylinders be misfiring?

Anyone have any suggestion? New wire set? New coil pack? Something else?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
480 Posts
imported post

You need to use a multimeter and measure the wire and cap resistance. Souds like you may have an open wire or resistor in the plug cap.
 
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top