Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
402 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
after loosing a full day to change to a ss line the front left line to the middle junction...tonight i will start the big deal in changing the rear center line.

i know that i obviously need to take the left back off in order to also change the rubber line to the rear caliper, but i don't know the passage to get to the rear middle break line.....

every help is appreciated:waving:
 

·
Still Learning
Joined
·
13,274 Posts
Getting both bags off, rear wheel, inner rear fender will give you easier...access to the fittings. Easy...no.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,795 Posts
I'd suggest removing the the Battery Box in order to gain access to the rear master cylinder... Better still, remove the alternator and swing arm to get the following full-access:


View from left side, rear of engine



I ran the rear line above the stock bracket, lined with fuel line (for abrasion protection) and retrained with metal zip ties



Be sure to prevent abrasion of the new lines, against any sharp edges, such as the bottom of the gas tank flange shown here





 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
402 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'd suggest removing the the Battery Box in order to gain access to the rear master cylinder... Better still, remove the alternator and swing arm to get the following full-access:


View from left side, rear of engine



I ran the rear line above the stock bracket, lined with fuel line (for abrasion protection) and retrained with metal zip ties





Be sure to prevent abrasion of the new lines, against any sharp edges, such as the bottom of the gas tank flange shown here






wow what a job this onenu did! removing the swingarm for me is out of question lol to much.
my kit has all the lines to sonstitute the usual rubber ones, it is not one long line for the all rear.

so i will have to change the caliber one which is quite easy and most nasty one would be the center rubber one :wtf: i see it is in the back over the swing arm so i presume i will need to get the tire out and my head and hands in the middle of the swing arm lol.... at least i was lucky to find by chance a perfect kit in size and curved perfectly.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
402 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well....i did the right front...easy, the left front...a bit nasty but duable....the rear caliber... nasty because i had to use a propane torch and heat it up till i melted the tubber line in order to unscrew the junction....

the center rear??? almost impossible! in order to get there you must disassemble the all bike! never seen anything that stupid...

i decided not to procede and i will test the bike as it is...one day once i will have 120 feet of snow out and i can't get out from home for 1 month....i will do it lol.

seriously....the only way is to get it out from the rear pump....i guess but now i really have the idea why there is no meccanic that does wanna do that job even for a 1000 euro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,795 Posts
...the center rear??? almost impossible! in order to get there you must disassemble the all bike! never seen anything that stupid...
The Job would be easier if you would make a 1-piece Full-Length-Stainless Line for the rear, rather than trying to use the partial piece you have now... a custom line like that only costs ~$30 here in the states.

Having That, you can do do that whole job in about 2hrs... just Cut out (and destroy) the old line, then easily run the new one... Hardest part is removing the battery box in order to gain access.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top