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Last night I had to push start my 86 aspy. The starter acted like it didn't have enough power. I hope it's my battery. I got home and checked the voltage with the bike runningand I got 12.73. I know it should be 14 or better but I don't know if that because of the battery or if my stator is going. I have installed the ec harness and was getting 14.78 volts after that.

This happened last week too and I had to push start on a flat parking lot. When I got home I put some battery acid in the battery because it was low and I cleaned all the connections on the battery too.
 

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Hi bwssr,

from my failure last year 12.7 volts is what you get from the pulse coils, deceptivley showing a charge but you don't get any current so the battery dies anyway.

because your running the battery dead, your going to need a new one anyway so try it and see if things improve.

I do think your stator has gone, do a search on the forum and there is all sorts of info on how to check it out before you go into the time and effort of replacing the stator.

good luck
 

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I really hope that you added distilled water and not battery acid. A used battery will diminish the electrolyte by removing water as the hydrogen/oxygen is pulled out of it. Then if it is low on liquid the only liquid to be added is pure water, distilled, de ionized, RO, something as clean and as pure as possible. In a pinch you could even use your urine, but don't splash.

But if you find that the electrolyte level is low, it could be overcharging and this removes H2O from the H2SO4, sulpheric acid. From this site I have discovered how critical the electrical connectors are on these bikes and now from my recent experiences, cleaning them is the first step when you discover you have electrical problems. There are a ton of references to this. So it may be easier for you to do a search in the above box and see what others are saying.
 

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I have my own dash mounted volt meter on my 1100 . the other night I left the key on accessory all night . The next morning it barely turned over but it started. All the way to work the voltage only got up to 12.83v. I checked every hard thing first then checked the water in the battery . Sure enough one cell was a little low. Added water and all was fine. Hope your problem is so easy.
 

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All I had was about a cup or 2 of battery acid that I had left from a new battery I had bought 2 years ago.
 

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as above, you should only add distilled water to a used battery... but then again, after market batteries for wings just don't stand the test of time. Last year I put a maintenance free on my 1000 so far so good... and I really do not drive it much anymore
 

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had a few requests so I wrote this out try it



Neil

GL1200 Stator Testing

By Neil









Get a digital voltmeter that measures A/C and DC as well as resistance

Pull battery cover (left side) off and put bike on centre stand



Have battery load tested at battery shop if OK charge overnight measure DC volts straight across battery after charge should be about 13.5-13.9 VDC Reinstall battery.

On the left side of the battery you will see three yellow wires either going to a plug or wired straight thru by previous owner


Disconnect the plug OR cut the three yellow wires one at a time VERY important ONE at a time mark wiresA; B: C; You have to disconnect to get true readings. If left connected a lot of other problems could mislead you. Clean wires leading to stator by about ½ inch. You will be soldering later



Start The bike



This will not hurt the bike in anyway. It will run on the battery

Put meter on A/C scale across any combination A-B;B-C;A-C rev bike to 3000 RPM. You should see 45 to 60 volts A/Cacross any of above combination

If OK shut bike offmeasure on resistance scale (50K is good) from each of three wires to ground It should be infinite EG open must not have any shorts to ground

Measure from A-B; B:-C; A:-C; measurement should be in the vicinity of 1.2 ohms on any of the legs

If all measurements are ok (volts and resistance)your stator is good



Bad News Scenarios



1 A/C volts under 40 V A/C (with wires disconnected and at 3000 RPM)

2 Any leg A: B: or C: shorted to ground (Low or no resistance to ground)

3 Any combination A:-B: B:-C: A:-C: open (infinite resistance)



If stator is bad you may consider the alternator alternative See separate post on that subject

Or it entails pulling engine to replace stator



Ifyou havethe plug cut it out and solder each of the three yellow wires straight thru cover with heat shrink. Follow wiring all the way down to where it enters engine(under sleeve) just to make sure there are no other hidden splices (throw the plug at the neighbour’s cat or some thing it’s a piece of crap)



While you are in the area it is recommended that you change the fuseable link (30 amp main fuse) to a heavy-duty fuse holder with bayonet style fuses. These old fuses have a tendency to corrode and fail at the worst times leaving you with a dead bike



Start bike with meter still attached to battery voltage will go down while cranking over but should come back up to 13 VDC plus when you rev bike turn on Hi Beams volt should drop slightly but still be over 13 VDC if not e.g. 11 to 11.5 dc replace regulator 10 min job (lots on ebay)
 

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Got it going again found out the battery was over 5years old so I replaced it. Charging is at 14.5 at 3000rpms. SHould be good to go now. Did the stator test earlier when I installed the ec harness.
 

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Thats good news, hope you get many more untroubled miles under your belt:clapper:
 
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