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:lash:After a great ride today about 100 or so , we were exploring some never before seen roads a few towns south, we decided to head home and take the crooked ( old 58 ) from Bristol Tn to Weber city Va. The Goldwing 1988 with72000 plus on the clock was running perfectly. My wife spoke up and said there was a sudden hi pitched whine in the headset and I could not hear it. I turned down the mp3 player and she said it was still there . I turned off the intercom and she said it quit. Then the bike started missing and Idownshifted and it died. Ipulled in the clutch and it started running again so I went on about 3 miles later it quit again, this time for good. I checked the battery with my test light and no not a bit. Checked my test light on my brother-in-laws Suz and it worked fine. He rode home and got his trailer and we hauled the bike home and unloaded it .

I have heard a sort of weird chirp chirp sound but did not think it was anything to worry about, could not determine the source when I heard it. I am going to first charge the batt. and eliminate that. It seems strange since there is absolutly no power , none between the pos and neg terminals. Could Iwonder maBY perhaps a post broke or lost connection? I can't see the bike running till there was no power at all before quitting.

I was a mechanic from 1980 till 85 on motorcycles so I know a dead battery. This one was bought about March and slow charged for 12 hours at 1.5 amp, so it has not been burnt up from overcharge. Guess it could be sticking brushes. Maby the alt has died. Only a close inspection will tell the tale. :bow:Later
 

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Check the alternator's output once you get the battery charged and checked. The brushes get dirty and worn. Might be time for a rebuild or a Compufire alt and agm battery.
 

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I would put money on it that the Alternator has gone.
The same thing has just happend to me for the second time the alternators are crap on the 1500se .
It has been the rotor on each one.
 

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That is also what I am expecting to find. But one can always hope towards the simple battery change easy fix . Oh well roll up the old sleeves and dive in.
 

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It might also be a good idea to install a volt meter after repairs are done.:action:
 

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Would like to know a good one to use . I have thought about that also
 

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On my 97' 1500 SE had the brushes hang up this spring. Replaced the brushes and now charging between 13.7 and 14.1 volts. The reason I know that is I also installed this voltmeter For $84 from Daves. You certainly could go cheaper but this looks like the OEM that Honda should have installed on all Wings. What were they thinking, no voltmeter or ammeter ! !

http://www.davescyclesupply.com/product_details.php?item_id=392

It goes in place of the Goldwing emblem below the key. I hooked it up to my auxiliary wiring fuse block on the keyed side. It is right in front of you and easy to see, also dims at night. Red in colour.

Or you could go for the combination meter with voltmeter, outside temperature and gear position indicator for $149.

http://www.davescyclesupply.com/product_details.php?item_id=390


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OR you guys could look at rudys smart lite set up. i hear there very handy.
 

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Ok now I gotta spend and spend some more. Oh well spend as I make it . No use dying and leaving it for some other to spend.
 

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Hodgy wrote:
On my 97' 1500 SE had the brushes hang up this spring. Replaced the brushes and now charging between 13.7 and 14.1 volts. The reason I know that is I also installed this voltmeter For $84 from Daves. You certainly could go cheaper but this looks like the OEM that Honda should have installed on all Wings. What were they thinking, no voltmeter or ammeter ! !

http://www.davescyclesupply.com/product_details.php?item_id=392

It goes in place of the Goldwing emblem below the key. I hooked it up to my auxiliary wiring fuse block on the keyed side. It is right in front of you and easy to see, also dims at night. Red in colour.


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I also have this voltmeter on my 94 SE... also got the cover/shade deal that goes over the meter. I think it looks like original equipment. It came with a wiring harness to connect into the fairing side light circuit. Complete plug and playand works great. After I installed the voltmeter I noticed my volts were falling down from about 14v to around 12.5 when stopped with the brake lights on. I put in some LEDs for the brake lights and now the voltage stays the same whether the brakes are on or not.
 

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Got the batt on charge 2 amp till it gets full then I'm going to start diagnosing the charge system to narrow down the problem.
 

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The Hitatchi(Japanese), WAS a good unit, untill China got the contract to build them. If you find it's the alternator, I'd get it rebuilt from Ken Hemmings. Lots of guys and myself have used his service,and I'll tell ya, you can't beat his deal, and they are super reliable. He guts them and rebuilds EVERYTHING with quality materials/parts. jimsjinx
 

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I got the shade/cover also but left it off, I think it looks better without it. You are right, looks like OEM.


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I've had the same issues with my pickup before. I would almost bet money it's the alt. Rudy's setup is great, but you can't go wrong with a simple volt meter either. There's plenty of them out there to choose from.
 

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I knew the darkside would bite me . it has now invaded my electrical system. lOVE MY Dunlop run-flat and Mich Pilot rear setup
 

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The 88-95 are the best alternators. The main problem with them is the brushes hanging up. You can probably replace them and the rear brg. and be good to go.
 

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I like that trick trike Color is cool
 

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I like that orange too of the 02
 

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Ok got the battery back on and I have found the problem. Starter runs all the time. It runs with the bike in or out of neutral, with it in gear or not. This should eliminate the starter button sticking as mine has all the electrical sateties still on and working.
My next check is the main starter soleniod. Me thinks it be stikin closed. Have seen this on some older bikes. 750 and 350 hondas.
I am going to disconnect the solinoid wires and jump to the post so I can get her running and go ahead and check the output on the alternator while the output wire is off.

Just got to find the starter solenoid . If I had found this yesterday I may have got it going by unhooking the starter wire . But without the battery hooked up it was about impossible to find .
 

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I am hoping the starter has not fried. :praying:it turns good and I did let it start for a second or so just to check and see if that was all for now:ssshh:

I think it will be ok. just hoping the brushes aren't burnt out.

It probably ran for about 20 minutes before it quit from battery drainage.

Maby it did not kill it the starters on these things are killer for bikes or so I have heard.
 
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