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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a long lived problem on my 77' GL1000. The bike is hard to start when hot, after sitting, shut down, for more than a couple of minutes.

I have been over the carbs 3 times, and even sent them to Pistal Pete. The ignition is Dynatek with Accel coils. There was a valve job done recently and the water pump replaced at the same time.

I still think it might be ignition. By way of wiring, not components,even though I have tested for voltage drop and found none. Wires are all soft with clean connectors.

i could use some fresh ideas. No other bike I have restored has had this problem and i AM LOST.

Thanks
Glenn
 

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Tested the voltage drop where?
How fast does it turn over? A starter with high resistance (to movement, i.e bad bearing/internal friction) could cause a higher amperage draw when trying to start warm. What is your battery voltage during cranking at these times?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The starter spins OK. I have had it apart and cleaned & lubed it as well as substituted another starter. It has been awhile since I di the voltage tests I will have to check out the voltage during cranking again so I don't remember things wrong. It was over 10 volts, I think.

The voltage drop tests were done before and after the starter button. I worked with Randakk during these tests.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I noticed the Reserve lighting unit has expanded from internal heat, it still works. Following the wiring diagram a couple of ignition related wires go into it. I found a by-pass diagram and will try it.

Will it have any effect on the ignition system.
 

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You need to check that it is getting good power to the coils when cranking. And that the spark is strong.
 

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My 77 does same. I shut the fuiel off pulling in for a stop semes to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry Guys I lost this thread and just rediscovered it.

Dave0430 can you describe how to check?

I found that at the main fuse with the key-on not running the bike is drawing 12.5 amps. I checked another GL1000 and found only 6.5 amps. Does any one know what should be there?

I changed out the starter and no help. I had ordered a new Rick's starter before I found the extra so I will try changing it again but don't expect any difference.
 

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I found that at the main fuse with the key-on not running the bike is drawing 12.5 amps. I checked another GL1000 and found only 6.5 amps. Does any one know what should be there?
12.5 amps is a lot and will heat wires and draw your battery down to nothing in minutes.
Are you sure you're not measuring volts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
12.5 amps is a lot and will heat wires and draw your battery down to nothing in minutes.
Are you sure you're not measuring volts?
I just pulled the wiring harness out, half way. the amp draw dropped 3 amps. I found a shiner or 2. Also found I had front turn sig/running light wired backwards. Down to 7.5 amps with key-on not running.

No help either.
 

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I would readjust the valve lash to a slightly larger gap and see if that helps the hot starts. Also as mentioned turning fuel off to make sure it is not flooding the engine is a good idea.
 

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What you got to look for is clues as to what is going on.

What does it idle at and does the engine run like new or something less. Have the carbs been synced.

Try opening throttle all the way while starting, any change.

With starting fluid spray into intake and 1 second later hit the starter button, any change.

Find out how long your engine will idle with petcock closed. If 4 minutes, on shutdown as a test close petcock and let engine run 2 minutes. Then try to restart, any change.

The above should narrow down mixture problems. Then start working on ignition possible problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What you got to look for is clues as to what is going on.

What does it idle at and does the engine run like new or something less. Have the carbs been synced.

Try opening throttle all the way while starting, any change.

With starting fluid spray into intake and 1 second later hit the starter button, any change.

Find out how long your engine will idle with petcock closed. If 4 minutes, on shutdown as a test close petcock and let engine run 2 minutes. Then try to restart, any change.

The above should narrow down mixture problems. Then start working on ignition possible problems.
Opening the throttle does not help. Carbs are synced. Engine runs great once it it started.

Still idling after 5 minutes. Refilled bowls let idle for 2 minutes. Still hard start after 20 minutes.Open throttle, no help. Close throttle, crank more. It will finally start. The engine will always fire right up immediately after shut down. The longer I wait, the harder it is to start.

Plugs are not quite tan, but not black either.

Ignition is timing was advanced on Cyl #1 & 2 Now all four cyl catch at the same time. I think there might be a problem with advancer as I had to set timing a couple of times. I have a spare so it will get changed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I would readjust the valve lash to a slightly larger gap and see if that helps the hot starts. Also as mentioned turning fuel off to make sure it is not flooding the engine is a good idea.
How much larger? .001" or .0005"
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Specs are .004" intake & exhaust. I just did a valve job. Sent heads out and cut all valves & seats.
 

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It aint rocket science
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You pretty much confirmed it is not rich, now you need to check for lean with the spray.

And again what RPM does it idle at when warmed up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Idles well at 1000 RPM. When you say spray, ether, do you mean with the air cleaner open?

Tried it with top of air cleaner off, didn't make a difference.
 

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Yup. Right down into the intake and keep the spray going while cranking for a couple seconds. You wouldn't consider the engine tired out, would you?

Gotta ask.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
No, engine is not tired. Good compression and you can still see factory cross hatch in the cylinders. 52,000miles

Spraying don't help. I'm inclined to think a little rich. Plugs are a bit on the rich side, not black though.

I'm haggling for another set of carbs. I think that will be my next wasted money.
 
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