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Hard to start GL1500

1852 Views 11 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  chiznutz, 
T
I have a 88 / 1500 run good but when it get's hot I have to crack the throttle a little so it will start the next time it will start right up . I have rebuilt the.carbs no change replaced the auto fuel stop and gas cap I am thinking it's a air valve sticking has any one run Into this I have been trying to find the problem for over a year
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DriverRider
Tsrramsey said:
I have a 88 / 1500 run good but when it get's hot I have to crack the throttle a little so it will start the next time it will start right up . I have rebuilt the.carbs no change replaced the auto fuel stop and gas cap I am thinking it's a air valve sticking has any one run Into this I have been trying to find the problem for over a year
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An air valve has no effect on the idle circuit and assuming float VALVES are OK a fuel delivery issue is null and void. The gas in the bowls is what it is on shut down.

What does it idle at, when was the last time spark plugs changed, when were the carbs synced, when started cold with choke on will it run OK around 2k RPM, does the accelerator pump shoot fuel into carbs. With engine warmed up and on center stand turn idle knob down slowly until it stalls out. It should run smoothly until it stalls and what is the RPM when it stalls or lowest it will go with no stall.

When warm a touch of the starter button engine should start right up. Not quite sure what you have written about restart. Do you need to twist throttle a couple times or just open it once a little and at what speed is the RPM now when holding throttle open and engine starts.

Got all that. Print out if needed.:)

edit And what is the mileage on the machine. Does the engine run smooth with no surging at idle.

edit edit And the restart problem will come on after like a fuel stop or does it take longer.
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Hard to start

Driver riderThe carbs have been synced about a month ago when I had the carbs rebuilt this made no difference still dose the same thing when I start the bike and it doesn't start right away I crack the throttle and it starts up but smells flooded in a minute it's run good next 1/2 a dozen time cranks right up when cold cranks right up the only thing that I can tell different is you could here a click when it started and I don't here that but every once and a while now and when it clicks it starts right up I will try the idle and see how low it will go it run about 800 rpm at idle and is steady I took the bike on a 7 day trip and it ran good the gas mileage was between 38/44 per gal thank for any help this has Been going on a year just can't pin it down
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Cornpone
Your idle seems a bit low to me, assuming your tach is accurate. I'd increase it to 950-1050 rpms and see if that helps.
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T
I will try that see if it helps but I think I am missing something just don't know what it is
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DriverRider
Tsrramsey said:
Driver riderThe carbs have been synced about a month ago when I had the carbs rebuilt this made no difference still dose the same thing when I start the bike and it doesn't start right away I crack the throttle and it starts up but smells flooded in a minute it's run good next 1/2 a dozen time cranks right up when cold cranks right up the only thing that I can tell different is you could here a click when it started and I don't here that but every once and a while now and when it clicks it starts right up I will try the idle and see how low it will go it run about 800 rpm at idle and is steady I took the bike on a 7 day trip and it ran good the gas mileage was between 38/44 per gal thank for any help this has Been going on a year just can't pin it down
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Getting a little more fuzzy here with fuel smells and clicking noises and still not sure whether you are twisting and closing throttle or are holding open to restart, are the fuel smells out the tailpipe or raw fuel as in leaking fuel. And with clicking noises I could only imagine maybe the ignition relay, but who knows.

If the bike has original 80k spark plugs that is bad, you have to be precise in tracking down problems which is why I asked all those questions.

If the bike were here in front of me all the above questions could be answered in about 1 hrs. labor time and you would be well on your way to KNOW exactly what is causing the problem and maybe catch a couple others. You can only do so much on the net.:)
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Ansimp
Sounds to me like it is over fuelling and cracking the throttle allows more air to flow. I suspect a faulty float level or needle and seat.
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Cornpone
DriverRider said:
Getting a little more fuzzy here with fuel smells and clicking noises and still not sure whether you are twisting and closing throttle or are holding open to restart, are the fuel smells out the tailpipe or raw fuel as in leaking fuel. And with clicking noises I could only imagine maybe the ignition relay, but who knows.

If the bike has original 80k spark plugs that is bad, you have to be precise in tracking down problems which is why I asked all those questions.

If the bike were here in front of me all the above questions could be answered in about 1 hrs. labor time and you would be well on your way to KNOW exactly what is causing the problem and maybe catch a couple others. You can only do so much on the net.:)
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We need internet-based "smell-o-vision"!:ROFL:
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Hard to start

Cornpone said:
We need internet-based "smell-o-vision"!:ROFL:
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The plugs have about 5000 miles on them and I only crack the throttle a little maybe 1/8 of a turn I thought rebuilding the carb would work but same problem on the 88/89 there ase two more solenoid a sa. And a n solenoid the sa is working and I am going to n solenoid I am thinking that it a valve sticking not letting the carb breath when hot. I have herd other 88 make that same clicking sound when they start will keep looking
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DriverRider
Ansimp said:
Sounds to me like it is over fuelling and cracking the throttle allows more air to flow. I suspect a faulty float level or needle and seat.
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+1

Having to open the throttle is a classic sign of flooding or an overly rich mixture. A teaspoon or two of extra gas is not going to make a difference in starting along with causing fuel smells. Something heavy duty is going on. When carbs are removed is when you check and test for a heavy or misadjusted float levels, you also check and test for leaking float valves.

This 88 has no mention of a flat spot off idle which is a little bit strange, could it be idle jets were changed larger:? at some point and pilot adjustments were not made to compensate, this is a possibility now and would be very rich at idle.

You take all the little dots and connect together to paint a picture of exactly what is going on with no guess work or needless parts replacement.

Unless you bought the ride new and know its service history nothing can be taken for granted.
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Ok took bike apart rechecked all the vacuum lines and made sure everything ok check all the solenoid to be sure all working the only thing that I am not sure about I found that the vent tube that go to both carbs when I blowed air throw the tube there was gas in the vent line this Is the metal one that is open by the air breather not sure if when Honda shop rebuilt the carb they left cleaner or it got pushed in the ports of the carbs. I will put the bike together and see if that changes anything .other wise it's back off with the carbs to the honda shop to see if they have any luck.but a month ago I told them the problem and they sead the jets sticking so they rebuilt it . But no change. Thanks for all your input it helps

Ps I have had the bike for around 9years and have rebuilt the carbs twice by the mechanic but maybe it's something else in the carbs.
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Tsrramsey
Did you ever figure out what the problem is? I have a 88 and just rebuilt my carbs and have the same problem. Any help would be welcome.
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